Án interesting youtube about synthetic oil.
 

Not trying to start another battle of the oils.

But I found this comparison to be quite fair and even. If you do watch it, watch the whole thing as it is quite interesting

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Thanks. Yep, the difference between synthetic & conventional is obvious. I've been using Mobil 1 for decades...but is it better, worse, or pretty much the same as Valvoline Synthetic? How 'bout Amsoil? Other brands?

I'm going to stick with Mobile 1...no real reason why.

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Cool! Good stuff. It was interesting to see the difference. Fortunately, I guess, I've been using full syth in both of our vehicles.

Coal was made into oil, rubber, fuel. A politico article states half of WW2 German ersatz fuel was synthetic.

The Fischer–Tropsch process is one of my favorite reactions…

I have a lot of problems with this vid.,( I will admit I rushed through it) They never measured a thing?
Was it a direct injection? or regular?
What I do know is, with over 200K on our direct injection Honda turbo civic , we have not had to take it apart for intake valve cleaning which has been a HUGE issue for all direct engines.
Direct injection engines accumulate a huge build-up on the back side of the valves, making them run terribly.
So far so good.
I use 100% synthetic oil afaik.

They had 2 identical Ford Explorers running 2.3L turbo 4-cyl. One engine ran Valvoline synthetic oil, the other engine ran valvoline conventional oil. The motors ran with computer controlled throttle that varied the motors through various rpm in some pattern for 500,000 miles. The oil was checked every 8 hours. Both motors had "normal" mechanical issues that were repaired as needed.

It was a comparison of 2 identical motors run in the same way in the same place using 2 different oils. They either both had direct injection or they both didn't have direct injection. When comparing 2 identical motors that ran dissimilar oils, what difference does it make if they were both DI or not?

No, they didn't measure anything. I suspect Valvoline is going to do that sort of in-depth analysis of the motors, essentially blueprinting the engines to compare details. This was a quick video showing visual difference. I suspect it was essentially a commercial meant to get folks to buy valvoline synthetic oil.

How often did they change the oil?

My trusty 1986 El Camino OEM engine went 300,000 miles before it was worn out. Mostly the valve guides causing smoke from the tailpipe.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727443176.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727443176.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727443176.JPG

It was not pristine, but 24 years of real world driving in sub zero temps to 100+ degree days on a highway trip it ran fine. And the new 350 replacement brand new crate engine was $1,700 delivered to my door.

All on conventional oil, with regular oil changes.

Direct injection sucks... Not only can you trash a piston from low-speed pre-ignition, but it fouls the intake as you stated.

I think they said 5,000 miles.

So, you could have gotten away with just refreshening the heads? ^^^

Glen, what was that build up on the crank counter balances?

.

I presume just caked on oil residue. It had a low red line so balance was never an issue. I had to assume it was from sitting in oil in the pan when the engine was off.

The 80s small block 305s were a much unloved engine by enthusiasts.Certainly not a performance engine, but it was, and still is a daily driver, not a drag racing or go fast machine.

Just the machine work to rebuild it was more than the new 350.

The 350 has 85,000 miles on it and runs great.

is non synthetic oil even a thing anymore? I put synthetic in our old beat up mini van. Its like $12 more per oil change. I like saving money as much as the next guy but..............


Is it like 30$ more at an oil change shop?

Sheesh, prices are insane. You can get "store brand" at O'Reilly for ~$6/qt. If you want a brand name, I looked at Castrol, GTX is $9.50/qt. Castrol full synth is $12/qt (cheapest, some other is more).

Things have changed A LOT since I worked in a FLAPS in the early/mid 90s.

Hell, ATF+4 is $13 a quart now...

.

10,000 miles 'the recommended interval'

I literally just ordered 10 Quarts of mobile 1 synthetic European car formula for 49.99 on amazon.

Its pretty cheap at costco an walmart as well, name brand.

Full disclosure the brand of synthetic I put in our beat old minivan was amazon basics. The good stuff!

I've been using (whether in the Outback or what I request in the boxster) M1. It seems that the "new hotness" for 9x6 and 9x7 motors (bore scoring) is motul 8100 x-cess gen2 5w-40, a couple of different versions of Liqui-moly, and Driven DT40.

Since my car is an S (more susceptible to bore scoring), I'm probably going to switch. It looks like the liquimoly and motul are $12-13/L if you buy per L, but down as low as $9/L if you buy in 5L jugs. It seems that the Driven only comes in qts or cases of 12 qts (assuming you aren't buying a barrel), and the best price for that stuff is $15.99.