Motive power bleeder
 

Anyone ever fix one. Mine is brand new and won’t build pressure. I’m pretty sure it’s the handle. The company is refunding me which is great and letting me keep the bad one. I’d hate to just throw out if I could fix.
Suggestions?
Thanks.

Holy crap i just boxed a brand new one up to return for the same reason! They have some 'try this' stuff on their website. On mine the white valve wasn't fully screwed on to the metal rod. Fixing that didn't fix the issue though.

15) Pump troubleshooting

A rule of thumb is that in an empty half-gallon tank 20 pumps should give you a 5psi increase in pressure so to 15 psi about 60 strokes. A tank with fluid in it will require less pumping as there is less air to compress.

5 things to check

1) Make sure there is a flapper valve at the pump's bottom. It looks like a rubber plug, it covers 4 holes that allow air to go out of the pump but doesn't allow air to go back into the pump.

2) Remove and make sure there isn't any dirt or debris in the flapper valve. Replace it and try the pump again. Occasionally the pumps are over-greased internally and you will see some blue grease between the flapper valve and the bottom of the pump shaft. Clean out the excess grease.

3) If that doesn't work remove the pump cylinder by giving it a quick sharp tug while holding the handle, the cylinder should come off and you should see a white piston on the end of a metal shaft. The circumference of the piston should be covered in blue grease. If it isn't please evenly distribute the grease and re-assemble the pump. Also, make sure the piston is actually threaded onto the metal shaft. We've had a few pumps escape recently where the assembly person forgot to grease the piston. Any thick grease should work as the fluid doesn't get into the pump unless the flapper valve is missing or bad. We prefer caliper assembly grease.

4) There is a rubber o-ring at the top of the pump cap. Sometimes they get a bit dry and don't seal well. Just put a bit of grease or brake fluid on it to make it seal better. We've also seen some pumps that shipped with an undersized o-ring. The inner diameter of the O-ring should be about ~2" when removed from the pump shaft. The undersized o-rings were ~1.75" inner diameter.

5) Check the top of the tank neck to make sure there is no damage to the neck that may prevent the o-ring in step 4 above from sealing properly.

If none of the above works please contact us at motivesupport@gmail.com

16) Do I have to bench bleed my master cylinder if I use the PowerBleeder?

If it's a new M/C and it's out of the car I always recommend doing a bench bleed - but normally you don't need to.

If you're having problems with a new m/c installed in a car try these in order

1) Make sure the m/c is level compared to the ground - if the m/c is not level air bubbles can be trapped at one end.

2) Use a brick or rig the brake pedal so that is partially depressed about 1/3-1/2 stroke.

3) Finally if you need to crack open the fittings on the m/c and let it force fluid out of the m/c - put some rags underneath to catch the fluid and have some water handy to clean off any mess.

Thank you both.

$10.


works fantastic.


https://www.****.com/-change-tool-car---tool-vacuum-bleeder-extractor-for-car-motorcycle-truck-rv-vehicle-g-601099609667290.html?_oak_mp_inf=ENrt1cWm1ogBGiA4Z TllMGJlMTRlZmI0ZWQwOTdiZjBjNDI5NDRmMjkyZiDCt4LZtDI %3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2F product%2Ffancy%2F966e5107-a3bb-473f-8c46-f4389320d546.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2233628468&refer_ page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_ freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTA3OQ&_oak_gallery _order=786984711%2C1251845127%2C1232163865%2C13325 35256%2C1610753925&search_key=brake%20bleeder&refe r_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=search_result& refer_page_id=10009_1732132241918_oqtnifinja&_x_se ssn_id=9efsciqhu4

Very interesting as you can't say naughty words that George Carlin would say. nor post a parts site from China.

blocked.

Can I still say booby on the forum?



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Have you pinched off the overflow to the MC?

I followed the instructions above. It did seem to work better. If I do not put fluid in it, I can hear the air coming out the top where the handle is. With fluid in, it seems to go away but without a plug I’m not sure because I can’t plug enough with thumb to fully understand what is happening. . I will put some fluid in later this week snd attach to car and see what happens.
Thanks.

From Berettafans post, seems like there’s a lot of quality issues, with the product. That said, mine works great and no problems with it. I’ve used them often on over the years.

"Can I still say booby on the forum?"

...only in reference to those with blue feet. Here's a nice pair:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732196155.jpg

You put fluid in it!? I use mine to put air pressure on top of the master cylinder. Im not sure they are supposed to have brake fluid in them.

I have had to change the hoses on mine a couple times over the years, they seem to age out and crack occasionally, but I just use some cheapo autoparts store hose.

^If not, it will make a mess of brake fluid in the engine compartment.

You can also use a MityVac type pump on the brake zerk nipple. Push and pull.

Mine wouldn't seal until i put some meaningful torque on the jar (handle)

Under the handle at the end of the rod is just a plastic scraper/ seal just like those cheap bicycle pumps we had as kids. Kind of hard to see it going wrong unless it was physically molded incorrectly

I did notice it takes a fair amount of torque on the jar itself to get it to seal, but seal it did. Teflon tape on the gauge threads as well.

Mine wouldn't build pressure until I tightened it pretty tight. Was fine afterwards.

Timely thread as I'm using an 8 year old one to flush 3 cars and one truck. Has been working great.

Absolutely you put fluid in... see instruction 5 here: https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages/power-bleeder-instructions?srsltid=AfmBOorU_Vgc9GzSv1WJPExiOZmJW Xvaaul2R_yGBNWIBKIH1vgVrjlm

I have never put fluid in it.

Same here ... no need to and it's a lot cleaner. Easy with my Carrera ...

When I raced the 914/6 I used a Mity Vac pressure bleeder and bought it as Black Forest in San Diego had used them for years with no trouble unless the pressure was pumped too high. They come with a lot of adapters, ETC and are way more expensive than mine was when I bought it at Harbor Freight in 1996. Mine had one M/C cap and now they have lots of adapters. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for 29.99 but now they have their own brand named Maddox. My racing mentor said only go to 5-7# of on an old car such as a 912 or 914 you could blow the brake system up badly. He also said not to use a vacuum bleeder on a pressure system!
John Rogers the oldracer

Ive had mine 10 years at least, I guess its been a while since Ive seen the instructions.

Really you can use the device fine without pumping brake fluid through it, just gotta make sure not to bleed the master cylinder dry as always.

Know many people who use these without putting fluid in them. Just pressurizes the MC reservoir and forces fluid through the system. It has precisely the same utility.

Potential for pulling air into the system?

Like everything else, those things probably got cheapened up over time. My brother has one and the only problem he has is finding the right caps to use.