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What's your go to method for removed seized bolts?
So I purchased a used set of 20" wheels on Facebook Marketplace for the Jeep as it's time to buy new tires. Will be painting the decorative plastic spokes and star center caps body color grey. Found a new spare on Facebook as well in the size I'll be going with (35"). In getting it mounted, I found that 4 out of 25 allen head bolts were seized so I had to drill them out and extract them with a reverse drill/extracter kit which was a real PITA. I anticipate all of the other wheels will have as many or more siezed bolts so I bought 10 addl drill bits.
I sprayed the bolts with PB Blaster and tapped the allent key socket with a hammer but did not use a torch over concern of ruining the finish of the powder coat finish. Suggestions welcomed. Thanks! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1738595026.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1738595026.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1738595340.jpg |
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1/2 acetone. 1/2 ATF. I read a study by an Engineering school where this outperformed all penetrating oils. I believe it. It works very very well. Hammer + heat gives this stuff a 100% score for everything I have used it on.
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I have two friends that are heavy equipment mechanics. Both swear by the acetone/atf thing. Won't use anything else. I've tried it a couple times. Seems to work. My normal go to is PB or liquid Wrench. All I know is WD40 is the worst. Kroil is great but $$.
One method that I use is, I'll use an impact wrench on its lowest setting, give it a few taps n either direction let it sit awhile, then over time, gradually crank it up to a higher force. . |
^ The acetone/ATF mixture works well!
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I am almost exclusively a fire person.
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To answer the question posed in the thread title, Sell the vehicle.
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Damn. Imagine being roadside and having that same issue.
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Yep..it's the wheels themselves that I question. What's the purpose of those add on pieces? Just look like traps to pick up mud & debris to me...
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pointless covers get tossed out of my garage.
id drill em, and then never reinstall. |
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I have the same type of covers on my dually wheels. I have to take them off to get at my locking hubs. Every now and then I'll break them loose and give them a few turns so they don't freeze up.
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Vinny, I had a similar situation with my locking hubs. I eventually took a hole saw - which was luckily the perfect size - to very carefully remove the center of the caps.
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A liberal coating of anti-seize when reinstalling....then loosen and retighten a few times/year. Or toss 'em as already suggested.
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First, I use good quality, tight-fitting tool. In this particular case, I use regular Snap-On sockets but I think there are more modern designs that are better.
Smack the inserted tool with a hammer, many times. I use heat from a heat gun and candle wax or crayon, as many times as necessary. When I have needed to protect something adjacent, I've fabbed up some heat guards to keep the heat only where I want it. For something like an allen head bolt, you could also use a micro torch in the center of the recess. I have no idea about those wheels but sometimes the holes go all the way through and your penetrate of choice can be applied to the back side. |
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