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G'day!
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Mostly going to be motorcycles for me but guess this could also apply to other stuff.
Love to get your input too, Shaun! Thanks!
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,150
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Don’t powder coat the fan, housing and valve covers red! I did that 15+ years ago and I’m still embarrassed. That’s all I have. lol
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D idn't E arn I t
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Headers. Won't put 'em on without ceramic. You can get colors to look somewhat factory. Makes a noticeable difference underhood.
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G'day!
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These are some Cerakoted brake calipers that go on the 2nd Gen Interceptors.
![]() Photo from a friend in Illinois who restores these bikes and had these done for one of his projects. They come from the factory painted this color: These are some I rebuilt and will be using on my current project here. I left them alone.
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dahlonega , Georgia
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Baz those Cerakoted calipers look good , almost a BBS gold wheel color . I prefer Cerakote over powder coat any time I don't want a thick buildup . Suspension pieces go powder coat . Brake calipers Cerakote . On wheels I prefer Cerakote or conventional two part auto paint .
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2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler . |
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G'day!
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OK thanks, Rick - good input there!
I guess more than anything....I want some to convince me why I shouldn't just do a VERY good paint job - as it came from the factory. Especially considering how much more powder coat and Cerakote would cost. Make me a believer! ![]()
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Location: Cambridge, MA
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You have 3 options Baz:
Cerakote (H and E series unless UV stability is important and then I use V, don't like C, it's dull and not as durable for real world auto use) 2K paint, either from the local store or can that punctures a hardener vessel in the can, shake and lasts 2 days Powder coating I Cerakote everything from fans and housings to originally painted suspension parts. Their clear products are excellent for tumbled/polished Al suspension, Al/Mg transmission cases, front hubs, etc. 2K cans of paint or ok but spray control isn't great. I wouldn't use powder on anything. Given your stable, I would invest in a decent gun and shoot and bake everything with Cerakote.
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G'day!
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OK thanks, Shaun - nice amount of info there!
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G'day!
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I'll add some photos later but in short there's a lot of support for sticking to a good re-paint job, with emphasis on proper prep and application.
One of the guys on my motorcycle forum swears by Duplicolor for most of his painting needs via rattle cans. If you are doing large projects, obviously a rattle can isn't practical. But on a motorcycle, obviously we're dealing with a lot of smaller parts. https://www.duplicolor.com/ Here is a side cover that he sprayed with a Duplicolor rattle can...... ![]()
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Location: Hilton Head Island, SC
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Looks professionally done!
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G'day!
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This guy's a perfectionist, like Shaun.
His take on spray paint application: 1st coat is almost a mist. I want it a little splotchy and light. Good adhesion for the first coat and a nice texture for the next coat to grab on to. I'm starting to experiment with my plan for coverage and finals. 2nd coat is almost the same but I'm looking for areas that were bound to be missed because the 1st coat was so quick and light. This is where I'm re-evaluating my plan. Now I'm really thinking about my pattern, possible overlaps, ensuring coverage, and where my final passes are gonna be. What is the most visible when mounted. 3rd coat I'm definitely laying some more paint and working on my pattern. 4th coat (if needed after inspection or if I'm not sure about my attack... often is needed) is moderate again. Making sure there are no light spots for my final glamour shots. 5th coat (possibly last). Now you have to lay some product. Deliberate, medium speed passes. Just thick enough to for it to flow, not so much paint it runs. Every paint I use lays out different. The small, expensive Duplicolor lacquers are thin, easy to run. The Wheel Coatings are a little thicker and more forgiving. If it's chassis hardware (including wheels), I usually opt for a Silver, Charcoal or a Black because of this. And they are a way better value. Sometimes I just gotta have a certain color.
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Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sadly more than one 3.0’ suffered that fate. ![]() ![]() [img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/10000655521740195260.jpg[/i [img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/10000655461740195260.jpg[/ ![]() ![]()
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Byron ![]() 20+ year PCA member ![]() Many Cool Porsches, Projects& Parts, Vintage BMX bikes too |
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Powder coat for anything that doesn't have a tolerance, cerakote for anything that does works great for hubs and such or if you don't want to mask off threads.
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chicago, IL
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My car’s PO powder coated the fan and upper valve covers red around 15-16 years ago when he rebuilt the engine - it makes me cringe a little bit, but I don’t dislike it enough to pay what it’ll cost to get them redone in better colors, so I live with it.
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it's hard to describe how satisfying this was.
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