Pulling 2017 civic Rear wheel bearing

[afterburn 549]

WOW!
I live in the salted road world, and this thing seems to be welded in!
It's a unit bearing that comes out from the side after removing the four bolts from the inboard side.
I have heated, slide hamered it, beaten it, and now letting it soak overnight with some sort of penetrant around it.
Any ideas?
thanx!!


PS - skip to post #56 for the final answer.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

This guy had a hard time too. BFH for the win. I like his air hammer idea too.

Starts are right spot

[Tobra]

Maybe do the wax trick, though that is more for threaded parts

[Rot 911]

So the wheel bearing is part of the hub? If so, I guess you don’t have to worry about destroying the hub or the threads. I wonder if there’s someway you could rig up a slide hammer?

[HobieMarty]

If i recall correctly, the wheel bearing for the rear is an assembly. Could you just replace the whole assembly with the wheel bearing already installed?

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[afterburn 549]

To assemble this, It pushes in from the outside like most unit bearings, no other fasteners except the four bolts from the back.
The old ones had large snap rings of sorts, and the whole spindle had to be removed and bearing pressed out , at least on the fronts.
This is simpler, yet hard.
I will make a tool for it tomorrow of sorts , and let you all know

[Arizona_928]

Sometimes, it’s quicker to pull the whole assembly and throw it in a press.

[A930Rocket]

Having lived in the south since 76, I can’t imagine working on rust belt cars.

[schwarz633]

Would this work on that style of hub?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOMU-Q2nX4o

[Bob Kontak]

I have used a long bolt with a big hex head and screwed it in from behind. Pick a hole if possible to allow a good swing at it. A big drift punch may work as well to strike the bolt or a long enough steel bar.

I think it was an early 2000's Subaru Legacy rear hub.

Snap-On has an air chisel that something will happen when you use it. Something will move. However it's $500. This Harbor Freight set has a gun that looks similar and you know you could use it on many other tasks. I'm thinking about it myself. Made in USA they say.

I'm going over right now as I'm not sure the gun comes with it. Seems too inexpensive. I'll report back in an hour or two.

Edit: The link was screwing up the threads format so I deleted it. The drifts were $69 and the gun was $139. Shucks.

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Having lived in the south since 76, I can’t imagine working on rust belt cars.

Ditto, I have always lived in the south and have not had to deal with rusty cars thank goodness.

I would just buy the whole assembly with the bearing installed and be done with it.

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[911 Rod]

A wheel bearing on my Tundra is on it's way out. Dealer wants 2 grand (worst case scenario) and will order the hub and bearing separately as they say the hub will probably get destroyed. So paying to try and then paying to try again. lol
Went to the driveline specialist that fixed the wife's Subaru transmission.
He say he'll order a full FAG assembly and drop it in an hour for $500.

[fastfredracing]

Here is the tool that I get 90% of the tough ones out with . You can get this on amazon for under 50$.
Most times, bfh, penentrant , bfh till your hands go numb, repeat a few times, and they will usually give up the ghost eventually . You may just have to walk away a few times

You can see by how the 1/4 " striker plate is deformed , just how stubborn some of them can be to get out .
Rear bearings on Subaru is a whole other level .
Go on any mechanic forum, and they will tell you to hit it with your purse .
The method Bob mentioned above also works well sometimes, but you will destroy the bolts if you try to use the factory ones, and will end up with a trip to the dealer to replace .
Good luck

[afterburn 549]

All good ideas.
I have tried the air chisel.
Today I will make a puller and see if that works.
As said, if that does not, I will take it all off to the press.
Thanx for all the input thus far.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

I have tried the air chisel.

Air chisel in the context of striking the long bolt from the back of the bearing as you probably will not have an optimal swing. As Fred says that bolt you put in and wack will get deformed but it works well.

I have a one foot long rectangular bar of steel 1" X 1 1/2" that I have used successfully with a BFH on the bolt.

[HobieMarty]

The problem with trying to force one out, especially if there is rust, is the possibility of the outer race staying in the hub assembly. That is when ya break out the angle grinder and cut it out. Good luck.

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[aschen]

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

Here is the tool that I get 90% of the tough ones out with . You can get this on amazon for under 50$.
Most times, bfh, penentrant , bfh till your hands go numb, repeat a few times, and they will usually give up the ghost eventually . You may just have to walk away a few times

You can see by how the 1/4 " striker plate is deformed , just how stubborn some of them can be to get out .
Rear bearings on Subaru is a whole other level .
Go on any mechanic forum, and they will tell you to hit it with your purse .
The method Bob mentioned above also works well sometimes, but you will destroy the bolts if you try to use the factory ones, and will end up with a trip to the dealer to replace .
Good luck

Ive seen people wack the ever living snot out of hubs with one of these things. seems like it puts a weird moment on the bearing surprised i doesn't tear up the bore for the Bering

How much is a new or nice used upright assembly for a civic. At some point may be worth just cutting losses especially if the original is so rusty.

[afterburn 549]

Alas, a wee bit of progress!
I knocked the wheel studs out, drilled the holes to 1/2 in (which is not much more)
Got some proper size bolts, (3.5inch ) cut the shank dwn , threded on a nut and a big washer for bearing surface.
Inseretd from the bac k side.
Some patience here as they needed to be modified for what they were to push against .
Held the bolt shank from turning with visce grips and tightened the nut to push the bearing out.
I assembled some unbelievable force on the nut in two places (not quite across from each other) whilst twisting the nut and hammering the wheel mount surface, things began to move!
I think I have an 1/8th now!
WEEEEEeeeeeeee! I QUIT for the day!
I think the lesson here is to take it to the shop next time? (if one lives in a rust belt)
Other wise YouTube shows those just being pushed out simply.
Not for the faint of heart.
Plus I am 70 something, and on hands and knees is not my favorite anymore if it ever was,,,

[Bob Kontak]

Outstanding. Get some penetrant in the gap but you probably did that already.

Speaking of knees I have to spring for an underside inspection mirror because I have to get on my hands and knees to set arms on anything that has any weight or corrosion in the rocker pinch weld. I hope it works.

Tired of getting old. When does this end?

[stre]

For a stubborn unit bearing like that, soaking with penetrant overnight is a good start. Another trick is to use a puller with some heat on the bearing housing, sometimes a few cycles of heat, then pressure, can break the rust loose. If you haven’t already, try tapping around the outer edge of the bearing with a rubber mallet to loosen it up a bit more before pulling again.