Closing the loop on that, finally got it ready - and once ready of course it will pass (since all they do is the same test I do: plug a reader into ODB2 for 10 seconds, $90 thank you). What gets me is how difficult it it to get correlation between which tests accomplishes what, and how to make sure the test cycle is initiated (or still running or what)... there's no manufacturer info out there, just people guessing and generic test cycles..

Based on research and mostly trial and error, I think you absolutely need to start cold, with that 2:10 of idling, and the test is ON for as long as the car runs and is not shut off... If you fail something, you can try again, immediately.. And the results may not show on the ODB reader if you left it plugged in... they need to be re-read after an ECU sleep cycle, I believe. Could be wrong but I saw no success after a test and the next AM, it was marked as done.

I had 4x "not ready" categories one year after battery swap ! CAT, EVAP, 02S, HTR.. It helped to figure out what was what and focus on eradicating them one at a time (and also as mentioned above realize not all readiness codes appeared immediately, I think only after an ECU shutdown). So run all cycles you can, turn ignition off, open and close driver door, wait 5 min till you hear the car go to sleep... Then see who salutes.

CAT appears to be the 15 min 40-60 mph under 3000 RPM (kid did that semi accidentally, almost got run over, told him to set cruise control and 55 and drive) - took 2-3 tries..
02S appears to be the 3:15 at 20-30 under 3000 rpm one, equally hard to do (so slow!! I had people flashing me for doing 5 under speed limit, LOL) - 2 tries
EVAP is a biatch, it seems to be the slow down coasting after the 40-60 run, not braking until you're < 20 mph, then idling for 5 minutes, turning the car off (on a freeway off ramp, lovely) etc... Never knew what did HTR, possibly rubbing my belly while tap-tapping my head.

I did have to drive like an idiot at one point - had 10 sec left on my test, a very sharp slow turn, which I HAD to take > 20 mph to keep testing, $%$#%...

In conclusion, NEVER EVER disconnect 12V to those BMW/Mini cars within a year of having to test for SMOG (others too, but BMW are extra annoying to reset) - have some charger connected while you pull your battery or whatever you have to do.. A long lead time between power cut and SMOG test *may* reset most codes for you but not me: We had about a year and 50% of these flags were missing because nothing in those tests is "normal" - nor is the test sequence ever activated, I think.

If I struggled for this long researching, reading codes, doing it, I cannot imagine a grandmother or non-techie person having a ton of fun with this - and neither smog/dealer/DMV gives a cluck ! I've defended Cali before but when it comes to SMOG and all the Cali exceptions (no 25y import rule for us, also watch Leno's law get nixed), I hope CARB gets DOGE'd with all my heart.


PS: CHP is focusing on Montana plate enforcement at the minute, for the SMOG and tax dodgers out there

California is desperate for cash. Expect a new cavalcade of fees

I tried this with my 997 as well, ***** show.