Any structural engineer or calculator will tell you that this is inadequate.
Especially with a snow-load.

Unless steel I-beams are used, angled brackets, enough slope, angle to sunshine to melt load, etc, probably)

I would like pics and running commentary.

I need to do something like this next year. It will be a carport, but I want enough structure that I can put containers on it and grow something in the sun.

When I open the walls back up to set beams I'll post pics of what I did for the header beam support. The span with no center support was the one that really required more work. I could have used hangers for the side with a center support, but I didn't want this to look too much like an after thought.

I'm really wishing I had done more for design when I added the garage on my home. But at the time my wife and I were just married and didn't have a lot of money to spend on the project.

Remembered I took a pic of the wall before I closed it up! I opened the wall and added studs to the existing corner framing to support the new beam. I'll be able to use 5" screws to attach the header beam directly to the corner studs.

The corners pretty much dictated whether I was putting the headers on the inside of the posts I set or the outside. It really didn't matter to me since I knew I'd have to build out the headers to 5-1/2" to match the size of the posts. I'm notching the posts so the header beams I'm putting up will be flush with the face of the post rather than attaching to the outside of the posts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757674034.jpg


This looks safe... right? :D


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757674262.jpg

Just to update, I ended up using 1-3/4 by 11-7/8 LVL for the headers. On the load bearing side with no center support I did a double LVL so 3-1/2 plus I'll be tagging a 2x12 and adding 7/16 OSB as a filler to bring the overall to 5-1/2". The front wall and the load bearing wall with the center support will be built out to 5-1/2" so everything looks like a 5-1/2 x 12" timber. The center ridge board is a 1-3/4 x 9-3/4 that will also be built out to 5-1/2". I put a 2x6 board across the top of the header beams for straightening and for a bit of lateral strength along the long wall. I'm putting screws into the rafters from the bottom of the 2x6 and will be adding tie straps once the headers are built out to the final size.

At post #24 I said I was putting the headers on the inside but after a little more looking I figured out that I could put them on the outside of the posts and not structurally damage the garage corners.

So far I've done all the framing by myself. The long header was put in using a my skid steer. The load bearing sides I just set them in the wall pocket and then onto the main posts that I had notched for the beams. The 4x6 rafters are a bit tough to handle by myself but things are moving along!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759407587.jpg

Looking good, Nick!

I tend to do all my projects by myself and enjoy it more that way. But yeah.....a 4x6 timber takes a little more oomph than the usual.

Take care of yourself, please.

More pics would also be great, if possible.

Thanks!
Baz

Thanks Baz! People keep asking me if I work. I tell them I'm saving so much money doing this myself that I don't need to work. It's fuzzy math but math nonetheless. Yeah the timbers definitely add a grunt factor well above just a 2x6. The worst part is the up and down the ladders! Up the ladder, screw the top to the ridge board. Down the ladder... and up the ladder on the tail end to fasten to the header board.... down the ladder.. Up the ladder to measure the next rafter.... down the ladder and cut... rinse... repeat. I'm measuring each one because I know the ridge beam isn't perfectly straight and the tails can't stick out beyond the header at the bottom. Then there's cutting the angles top and bottom... then using a router to round over the bottom facing side of the 4x6... Ugh... I'm tired...

I got all but four of the rafters installed today and would have gotten them all had it not been for eight of the twenty two rafter boards being unusable ... BACK TO MENARDS... Been considering just making one of the display beds and spending the night there. I figure it'll save me 1.5 hours per day.

Progress was slowed due to the crooked lumber, needing to get grass planted so my dogs wouldn't have muddy paws all fall and winter, and puppy proofing the fence so my new little guy can't get through the pickets. I'm working on the headers now building them out to 5.5". I'm debating putting the webbing in the gable end or just leaving it open. I Have the boards cut but they aren't necessary. It would strictly be a looks thing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761221489.jpg

That is really looking nice.

Thanks Tim! I'm hoping to get the 1x6 T&G on the rafters and then covered this weekend. As long as we don't get more rain, I should be able to do that.. There's a chance I could get sidetracked though if my new stand on skid steer arrives on Friday.

That is a lot of work on your own. Do you have access to any scaffolding and wheels, will save a lot of ladder climbing. Don't forget to secure for wind lift, hurricane ties or whatever.

If you did that here in jersey your taxes would go up an eye watering amount.

I have access to scaffolding but due to the height I'm working at the peak, my 12' and 8' ladders with an aluminum plank has been my go to. I've got ties planned but I'm not sure they're necessary. On top of the LVL beams I put a 2x6. I put screws into the bottom of the rafters at the eave and screws down through the rafters into the 2x and LVL from the top.