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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Four-Post Lift ?
Mildly considering a used four-post lift. Should I avoid the chain-drive and a single hydraulic cylinder models? Probably going to have the hydraulic cylinders re-built for safety-sake. The ceilings are high and i would like the option to stack and store two cars in a one car space. Space is at a premium here in NYC and stacking cars is an obvious solution. Also, plan on doing an occasional oil-change etc. using the lift. Wondering if any one here can make suggestions as to which USED brand is better what to avoid.. power requirements (I have a 110 line and some electrical know-how.)etc.
Thanks Guys.
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I had an Eagle Equipment 4 post lift. No problems, good support. Bought it in the mid 90's, sold it a few years ago. Single cylinder, no chain, aircraft cables. I wouldn't worry about a used cylinder unless it starts leaking. The lift sits on stops at all 4 corners, there is no weight on the cables or cylinder when the lift is parked.
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I have a Greg Smith 4 post, like dad above single cylinder with aircraft cables. Bought it probably 20 years ago.
Bendpak makes good ones as well. |
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I think most lifts have locking mechanisms and no longer rely on the hydraulic cylinder to support the load. But usually requires air pressure to release the locks.
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87 930, |
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Mine has a positive locking system, so it never has pressure unless moving up or down.
I do have to pull a lever by the controls though, it’s not fancy with air lockers
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True, what I was trying to say is no need to rebuild the cylinder if it can lift the car. As long as that lift uses dogs to lock the load. 110 v could be a problem depending on the hydraulic pack.
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87 930, Last edited by 908/930; 09-12-2025 at 10:23 PM.. |
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Good point, mine is 110
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Buying used can save money . If you can see the lift in action that is better as you will know if it works or not . Mechanical stops that use a lever to disengage eliminates the need for air pressure . I personally don't think cable vs chain is an issue . Made in USA is preferred if possible .
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20 year old Greg Smith 4 post here also.
110 volt has been no problem at all.....No leaks of the hyd fluid. I bought the optional heavy duty caster wheels for moving the lift....easy to do. I have 4 stalls and the lift has been in every one of them at some time.
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I have a 10 year old "Triumph" that has served well. I even moved it once, assembled, on a trailer.
Its 110, single cyl with cables, mechanical locks with lever actuation. You do need to use care to adjust all the lock linkage and not damage the rods. My only complaint is that the power unit "sweats" a little hyd fluid somewhere, can't find an actual leak. Disassembled, the ramps are still stupid heavy. Like 3-4 guys to move heavy. Pro tip-ditch the steel ramp "wedges" that you drive up on, if bolted on the lift they're headbang hazards, if not they're heavy af, and get a set of the low foam Raceramps. I toss them on the lift behind the car. MUCH nicer.
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If you use 120v, the US standard, your motor will run cooler.
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Touche.
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Chain drive should be fine. I think the single cylinder is pretty normal, my Bendpak HD9XW is only single cyl. Many of these will be 208/230v with 2hp and up, if the price is right you could change the power pack to lower voltage. The HD9XW is wide enough to drop a 930 engine down between the ramps. I have been considering adding a second lift and would buy another HD9.
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87 930, |
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Most small equipment motors that I have seen are 110v or 115V, not labeled as 120v. Sure they will run on more or less.
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87 930, |
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I haven't seen 110 in years. Even the radios I work on from the 40's say 117. The US stepped up voltage in the early 30's from 110 for residential. It's now 123v most places I know.
115/230 is common on electric motors unless they are pretty new. Yeah, they run on less as there are plenty of 115/208-230v. If you run your corded power tools on 110 due to excessive or too small extension cords, they are likely to die. |
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Yeah yeah yeah it was late when I responded
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I recently purchased two used four post lifts - Advantage and Direct lift. Both nice but I will caution you if your space is tight - some four posts are larger than others ( base plates, width, length, height of posts etc).
The Advantage lift has the optional airjack so I can lift the car and remove all four wheels and although both made in China, the Advantage lift is constructed with much thicker / heavier steel and is reflected by 3x the cost of Direct lift when new. Both cable units non air for raising and lowering/ locking. Both came with drip pans and wheels to position in place. I do not have them bolted to the floor. Buying used introduces the challenge of getting them moved. I had to disassemble one unit as its previous location had a garage door that was to small to get the lift out. Having a forklift or engine lift is ideal- unfortunately I did it the old fashioned way with one good friend and moving dolly's. Took us about 4+ hours to disassemble and load onto a trailer. another 3 hours to reassemble. Lifts, specifically those made overseas are an item that when purchased new today will increase in price due to tariffs. Last time I looked, the advantage website had a statement to ignore the listed prices as tariffs were causing a price increase. Happy with both of them |
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