Lacquer Finish Repair

[Superman]

This is a Klipsch Cornwall speaker cabinet which has water damage from a house plant that sat on top. I would like to do what i can to repair it or at least make it look less damaged. I have reason to believe these were finished at the factory with lacquer. But the problem is this:

"Lacquer" is a family of products with different formulations. For example, I am currently finishing a guitar body using nitrocellulose lacquer which is a different animal from other lacquers. Apparently, there are both water-based and solvent-based lacquers. And there are lacquers that "cure" and lacquers that don't.

Most (but not all) lacquers simply dry. The solvent evaporates leaving a resin behind which eventually dries to hardness. These lacquers can be re-wetted. Finishes that cure cannot be re-wetted.

So now you can see my dilemma. I may be able to spray a thinner onto this area which would dissolve and re-flow the lacquer and possibly repair the damage. But I'm guessing I would need to know the specific formulation of the lacquer on this surface. Maybe a bit of lacquer thinner is all I need here. But maybe not.

Does anyone here have experience and advice for me?

[Tim Hancock]

My 2004 motorhome was cherry wood finished with lacquer from the factory. Several areas in the front had been exposed to the weather while it sat in a salvage yard before I bought it. At first, I lightly sanded damaged areas then carefully taped the sections off to respray with Watco semi gloss lacquer from walmart. I soon figured out I could just simply spray multiple coats on any areas without taping off adjacent areas with the Watco and it instantly blended right in and left no overspray lines. I ended up doing this in many places all over the coach. It has been about five years since I did this and my woodwork in the coach still looks brand new. So very simple and quick. It was my first time I ever had experience with lacquer. I was really shocked how simple and effectively it worked.

[Scott Douglas]

You might want to go over to audiokarma and see if they can tell you what kind of lacquer was used at the factory. I'm pretty sure someone over there has refinished a pair of those speakers.

[javadog]

Call Klipsch and ask if there's an old guy around that can tell you what they used back then.

870-777-3376

[70SATMan]

Originally Posted by Superman

This is a Klipsch Cornwall speaker cabinet which has water damage from a house plant that sat on top. I would like to do what i can to repair it or at least make it look less damaged. I have reason to believe these were finished at the factory with lacquer. But the problem is this:

"Lacquer" is a family of products with different formulations. For example, I am currently finishing a guitar body using nitrocellulose lacquer which is a different animal from other lacquers. Apparently, there are both water-based and solvent-based lacquers. And there are lacquers that "cure" and lacquers that don't.

Most (but not all) lacquers simply dry. The solvent evaporates leaving a resin behind which eventually dries to hardness. These lacquers can be re-wetted. Finishes that cure cannot be re-wetted.

So now you can see my dilemma. I may be able to spray a thinner onto this area which would dissolve and re-flow the lacquer and possibly repair the damage. But I'm guessing I would need to know the specific formulation of the lacquer on this surface. Maybe a bit of lacquer thinner is all I need here. But maybe not.

Does anyone here have experience and advice for me?

]

What year and model are they Supe? Are the tags still on the back? Vintage Corns came in oiled and lacquer finish. Model number on the tags should say either CW-OO (Cornwall oak oiled) or CW-OL (Cornwall oak lacquer).

[Superman]

You guys are still the best.

I wish Tim were my neighbor. Dude can fix anything. Thx.

I made a thread on AK.

Model simply says CW III Walnut. Apparently built in 2010.

I have a woodworking video shoqing exactly how to figure out what finish was used, or at least what category: Oil, Shellac, Lacquer, Poly/Varnish. In that order. I'm pretty sure I'll find it is solvent-based lacquer.

Then I think I will follow a modified version of Tim's method. I'll get a little can of lacquer dilute it with lacquer thinner and load it in the HVLP sprayer. They say you can use only lacquer thinner, which will simply re-flow the lacquer already there, but I'm not confident there is enough lacquer still there. The trick will be in getting the right lacquer/thinner mix that will flow and lie down flat. Interestingly, the lacquer for the guitar body says to spray without diluting, but then use a 50/50 mixture for the last coat. This would be to take out all the bumps/texture and make the finish lie flat.

[LWJ]

Hey Superman! While I dig the Cornwalls, (really, I do!) I want to know more about the P-bass body. What are you using to finish? Is it rattle can lacquer? Looks great.

[wdfifteen]

Find an inconspicuous place where you can test solvents. If it is truly lacquer, lacquer thinner or acetone should dissolve it. Copious amounts of solvent applied with 4-0000 steel wool over the whole surface should allow you to essentially dissolve all the lacquer and re-distribute it on the surface. I’m using my iPad now or I would send you the link to a post I made here about refinishing a sewing machine cabinet using this method.

[Superman]

Originally Posted by LWJ

I want to know more about the P-bass body. What are you using to finish? Is it rattle can lacquer? Looks great.

Good eye. I'm using nitro in an HVLP sprayer. Clear coats will go on slowly through next week, then it will sit while I am gone for a month. Sanding/polishing will happen no sooner than late November. This is my first guitar body painting. I have a Mint pickguard here which will likely be the winner but I also have a parchment one. We'll see what looks best. Neck will have my preferred tiny mandolin frets. Pickup will be the Pure Vintage '63 P p'up.

Thanks WD. I'm thinking about that. The finish on these speakers is VERY thin so my repair will be as thin as possible. I have heard that a simple lacquer thinner spray will flow the lacquer and repair the damage. I'm not a wood worker, so this is scary for me.

The Cornwalls sound magnificent. My main stereo system is a pair of directly-heated single ended triode pre and power amp setup. 8 WPC. Midrange to die for. I can hear the expressions on singers' faces.

[Bill Douglas]

I've had good results fixing finishes like this by wiping down with (car paint) thinners. It sort of dissolves/melts the finish then it immediately resets.

You have to be careful with sandpaper as it can fluff up the grain and surface.

[wdfifteen]

Here is a link to the thread about using a solvent to repair a lacquer finish. Formby's is a mixture of solvents, but once you identify the finish, you can use a solvent specifically for that finish. If it's lacquer, lacquer thinner or acetone will dissolve it.


https://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/1160663-two-winter-project.html

[Zeke]

I'm reluctant to address this as IDK, as you don't know, exactly what lacquer it is. Only because I keep Mohawk Blender Flow Out on hand, I would spray that on it just to see. The thing about just water damage on lacquer is that it is easily healed. But generally I avoid anything that requires rubbing or brushing unless it's not lacquer.

If the finish is catalyzed lacquer, the Flow Out won't dissolve the finish but it won't hurt it either. What it will do is tell you what the white does wetted. If the color comes back while wet, you can go ahead with a pre cat lacquer.

You could test with naphtha but believe it or not, you're adding an oil. If you use acetone you are going to physically disturb the surface. That could turn out good or bad, so testing on the bottom is reccommended.

That said, the last thing you want to do is capture the white with some sealer. You'll end up stripping the whole surface.

One more note: only you know what has been put on these over the years like wax or dusting spray. It's paramount that all that be removed w/o carrying any of it into the damaged area.