Homemade power cord for deep fryer
 

Seem to have lost the power cord for my Krups deep fryer. I can get a replacement but thought I could make one from an extension cord and 10-12 butt connectors. The fryer has 2 posts that join to 2 posts in the cord, magnet holding them together. I think a 10-12 connector will fit over the posts on the fryer console.

Thoughts?

cord connector

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760276134.jpg

Just had spade connectors. Seems to work. Good day for fried chicken.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760277681.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760277681.jpg

Looks good to me. Enjoy your dinner :)

Necessity is the mother of fried chicken.

Here's a huge plus. The magnetic power cord took forever to get the fryer to 350-375ºF. For whatever reason, it now heats up in well under half the time.

Does it say anywhere on the unit how many amps/watts it pulls ? That would be my only concern . Otherwise just keep an eye on the wires and crimp connectors to make sure they don't overheat . Looks good to me.

I can look. It heats up 10-12 lbs of tallow/lard, 1.75 gallons of oil, so it must have a healthy draw. Good advice on keeping an eye on everything. And for obvious reasons, I never turn it on and leave the kitchen. Always prepping while it's working.

I think you just made a good case for hard wiring that. Connections have resistance. YMMV.

2 wire, no ground, metal appliance..... no worries.

If you have a voltmeter, measure everything metal on that to ground with it plugged in and on.
If you have an ohmmeter, measure metal to both prongs, with it off and unplugged.

If you have neither, put some water in the sink, stick one foot in the sink, and touch everything metal on the fryer....

Edit: Perhaps that metal center area on the plug/socket is the ground? With it unplugged, measure continuity from that to the metal parts on the fryer.....

@dad911, good point on the magnetic attaching as a ground. That's a poor ass way of doing it, but something is better than nothing. We have to remember, electricity ALWAYS takes the path of least resistance. I want my grounds hard wired.

But it could be a double insulated appliance. It seems most are. In order to know, we need to see the other end of the cord.

Original power cord is only 2 prong.

The control box and heating element with thermostat are completely isolated, that is they float on and in a square open frame sits on plastic feet and has a plastic mount on the back of the frame. A metal tin goes into the frame in which the heating element is submerged in tallow/oil.

Looks just fine

It's probably 1500-1800 watts so just make sure that cord is 12awg or something or else it'll get a little melty

No idea on the model of your fryer, but it looks like a representative Krup part costs under 5 bucks.


I'm as cheap as the next tightwad, but I think in this case I'd spring for it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760308977.jpg

EDIT: there's a bunch of them on amazon, but it looks like $14 is a more typical price.

Fried chicken was a big success as was the warm bacon vinaigrette spinach salad though the roasted chestnuts needed to be soaked overnight, who knew. Double frying a lot of thighs, drumsticks and wings, the new wiring was a godsend for keep the tallow at temp.

nicely done.

i have taken a cord to a lamp repair shop and had one rebuilt before.


for the fryer, i know most units come with a special cord attachment that comes undone easily if you trip or somehow hit the cord. it lets go easily so you dont send hot oil flying on a bad move of feet or hands.

just a thought

Didn't think of that, makes a lot of sense.

You are correct, fryers have easy breakaway cords, even with very short countertop only cords where an accident isn't very likely, but lawyers and stupid people I guess. I was lucky then to only have the shielded spade connectors. A butt connector snugly over the post probably wouldn't breakaway easily, it would likely snag and hold. The spade connector is basically light friction holding the spade against post. It breaks away very easily but provides better current draw. Not something a MFG could do but for me, it will work well.

I had forgotten the break away thing. IDK, I have mixed feelings. Short cord, yes. The no longer under the island or peninsula counter receptacle that allowed and errant knee or child to catch the cord, yes again. In the long run, I think the newer codes are wise.

But the spade connections are better for resistance, that I agree with. AFA easily detached, maybe not so much. I don't suppose you'd ever sell it so no worries unless you have an incident in your own home.

A good wake up call for us that grew up without bicycle helmets.

Are those spade connectors exposed when they come out?

As in, knock it over, spark from cord catches hot spilt flammable grease on fire.............

Generally the insulated spade connections, at least in my kit, extend past the metal part. That would be the female.

I wanna know how he got the flat connector on a short round terminal.