Anyone have a cheap substitute for Sonotube concrete forms?
 

I'm building a simple deck and I need to install some posts/footings. I'm wondering if there is a cheap alternative to using sonotube. I suppose I could use pre-fab concrete footings but I thought I would ask. I need to set approximately 8 posts.

how deep is each post in the ground? you cant pour "neat" against the soil? cave ins?

Well, I just looked up the pricing - its about $140 for a 16"x48". Based on that, I could cut the sonotube onto 6 pieces and use for the tops with the remaining concrete in the ground. That's doable.

16" seems big.

Are you mixing or pouring all at once? You could for the top with screws and move the form from hole to hole

Furnace pipe. You need to reinforce it by wrapping some wire around it. It works, and our county inspector thought it was genius.

I won't be building this for a few months and I'm only in the planning phase now. So, 16" was a wild guess on my part. Now that you mention it, it does seem too big.

Great idea! I hadn't thought of that.

I've just used poured concrete footings (into dug holes) with Simpson Strong-tie PBS ZMAX bases for decks, equipment shelters, etc.

About a million years ago I bought a 16’ retractable awning that was delivered to my driveway in a very heavy-duty cardboard tube which I cut up into manageable pieces, stacked them up in the garage attic whilst thinking some day I’ll use these for something.

See the steel square thread for reference.

How deep do you need to go for code? How much weight are you supporting?

Check with local carpet sales stores. They always have cardboard tubing they’re trying to get rid of for free. Seen 8”-12” diameter rolls.

How big is the deck and are you going to ever add a porch or something on top of it later? How deep are you going to dig your footers?

Don’t set your post in the concrete and have the top of the footerat a slight angle, so it sheds water.

We also used to dry stack hollow concrete block, backfill and then fill the cores with concrete.

Sonotube comes in three sizes of the same size, or at least that's how Menards version and Sakrete version work. I used the size closest to the hole I punched with an auger and slid it down into the hole setting the top at grade then put dirt around the exposed part. So one 48" tube would do two forms.

IDK why, but the rule of thumb seems to be about 3x the post size so a 4" post, 12" hole... The cheap method is to auger the hole and square wood frame to grade.

I haven't checked code yet but that is what I will follow. This is not really a deck but rather an elevation and expansion of the doorstep on my rental. Currently, when you walk out the back door, there is a step down of about 10 inches onto a small cement landing that has a sharp drop off onto the backyard. It seems very easy to fall off for someone not familiar (this is for a short-term rental).

My plan is to build a 10-12' wide deck that transitions to a single step down to the patio but also be raised to the level of the entrance. This deck will extend over the dirt portion of the yard and half will be over an existing concrete patio & step. I'm converting the entire yard to patio with planter bed edges - it's a very small yard 20x50'.

No photos today but I'll take some tonight.

The area I'm talking about. A small deck to cover the concrete step and be about 12'wide with an addition wood step down to the yard. The deck will be about 10" over the concrete step so that it is even to the entrance to the house. Not the best picture but it's what I have here at work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761759979.jpg

Whatever size you end up with, build a square form on top around each hole and put a piece of tube of "whatever" in the form at the correct grade and extending down below grade.

Use a string line and a tape to get all the forms in the right place. Small rebar cage in each hole, use a vibrator when you pour it. Anchor bolts as needed, etc.

Try to clean the holes out well when you drill them.

Since its a rental and all I guess you will do it right with a permit and such? They will advise you what you will need. In my area the inspector comes out to inspect your holes before filling them. And im sure they will tell you what you can and cant do

5 gallon paint type buckets? cut the bottom out, use screws with steel concrete form stakes. I was considering this for a couple of the pier/pads for my boat cover bases but just went ahead and formed them with 2x6 & 8.

You can cut them off in halves and get them off easy after spraying some WD-40 on the buckets prior to pouring them. A 4" grinder with an abrasive disk.

My recent efforts.


Contrary to optics they are all at a level grade set by a transit and strings.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761784310.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761784310.jpg

Why not? a slight dome would seem beneficial to me.

I was under the impression that this deck would be huge, on the hill side or something with 16" Sonotube. Maybe I am reading this wrong, but this is only about 12" above grade? Down here, any deck udner 30" does not require permits. Unless its attached to the house then maybe, just maybe a permit is required. If it has a roof, then a permit is needed.

Just dig a bunch of sq holes about 16x16 deep, fill with concrete and install a concrete pier with metal clips for 4x. If too tall, sink the pier a little more into the concrete so the posts can be attached. If not, just drop the 4x on it sideways onto the clips. This is more difficult to do because everything must be perfectly level. No sonotube or anything fancy is needed. All are covered by the deck. My biggest complain about a deck like its is weed control. Black plastic, or any type of weed barrier and put gravel on top to keep it from moving. It aint going nowhere.

Here in NJ, deck footings hvevto be 36" min depth some towns tequire 42"". Footing diameter is usually 16" for your average deck.

When I use sonotubes, I cut a 4 footer into 3 pieces and use it for the top 3rd of the footings.

There is also a bag, "sonotube" basically a long sock that is filled with concrete .


.

Spread footings can be used in lieu of piers, as mentioned above. Might be easier.

Maybe I wasn’t clear… it should shed water

He's up in Fresno, there aint any water to be had:D

Yeah, slope or dome the top.

Tidy, don't over think it. Its a very low deck with little weight, a small pad will hold up that deck just fine for a very long time. Save your money on the Sonotube. No form neededhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761867286.jpg