how would you get light rust off of an old blued spoon
 

If you saw my other thread, my mom was ill. She passed away on Sun. I brought home an old Charter Arms Undercover 38 that she is fairly certain was my dad's when he was a cop. I believe it was a mid to late 60s manufacture. It has been in a leather holster in various places probably since the early 70s. THere's some light rust or opposite sides of the cylinder where the leather touched it, also a couple of other spots (top of front site, top of hammer, etc...). I wouldn't expect to make it perfect, but I'd like to clean it a bit without making it worse.

not my photo, but basically this.
https://s1.img.bidsquare.com/item/l/....jpeg?t=1EMzVt


Also, while there and visiting with my aunt, she gave me one of these which my uncle bought in the early 80s. It practically looks new other than some of the white plastic being a little discolored. Cute, tiny little thing, complete with box and papers from when new.
Galesi model 504 25acp
not my photo.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh3GVP8zNpo/hq720.jpg

I'll let the experts weigh in with the rust question, but I want to say I'm sorry for the loss of your mom.

Thank you. It sucks bigly.

My condolences to you also Steve. If David (Targa911s?) doesn't see this thread ... PM him. Others will know too...

Best to you...

May her memory be a blessing

For the rust a shop cloth and some 3-in-1 oil and elbow grease

I have also heard great thibgs about Big45 rust remover but havent tried it

Sorry for your loss . RIP to your mom . On the rust I would start gently like WD40 and Qtips or a rag . Maybe a good cleaning with Hoppes or similar.

I'm sorry to hear about your mom Steve, take care of yourself.

Jeff Higgins and David targa911S are the best people to give advice on caring for your firearm.

^^^ Since they aren't here :)

I've used "Hops" since 1970ish ... discovered it was 2 syllable "Hop-peez" a few years ago.... can't go wrong starting there. imo.

Both will work great until Higgy or T-Bird appear ....

Thank you, everyone.

Mom went very fast (a few weeks from diagnosis) and with no pain which is the best that you can hope for with cancer.
I got there early enough to have a nice visit with her, and she was still her usual self other than being a little weak. Then she basically slept for 3 days and passed.

Sorry for your loss. Losing a parent is hard.

I didn't expect to loose her quite yet. She was in FL to provide assistance to her own mother (they lived very near each other). Her mother has now lost 2 of her children. Granny is going to be 100 in Dec. Her mother lived into her mid 90s. I thought I'd have at least another 10 years with mom. We were planning to bring her here, but she wouldn't leave FL until granny died. Best laid plans... and all that.

Sorry to hear about your mom Steve and sorry for your Granny too

Can't help with the rust either in that it's blued. But I did want to offer my sympathies. You seemed to know getting there as you did.

So sorry for the loss of your Mom. It is very sad that your Grandmother has lost children. I hope to be long gone before any of mine pass. Best to you and your family.

You are in my prayers, Steve. It is one of life's tragedies that we lose our parents along the way. We all know that, but it still doesn't make it any easier.

As far as the rust, start with some WD-40 and just your finger. If that doesn't do it, try a piece of course cloth. If that still won't do it, try the finest scotchbrite you can find. If it's more stubborn than that, then go to the finest steel wool you can find. Work slowly, keeping it wet with WD 40. You can apply a lot of pressure when using your finger or the cloth, but lighten up when using the scotchbrite and especially when using the steel wool.

Bronze wool before steel? It is a bit softer.

Condolences on your loss.

0000 steel wool is way softer than any scotchbright pad. I use it on fine furniture

There's a walnut shell based scouring pad that is very gentle but touches the surface with enough vigor to actually do something more than a rag.

That would certainly be an intermediate step worth considering.

I find the same when working on the wood parts of firearms. Both media are "harder" than either the finish or the substrate, so both will cut either when used to finish them. I pretty much skip the scotchbrite on wood and go straight to steel wool.

I think things change when working on steel, however. I've found even the finer grades of steel wool to be more "aggressive" on steel than the finer grades of scotchbrite. Especially when used wet with WD-40.

It might be worth trying both on a spot that cannot be seen, like under the grips, and maybe practice a little to see which you prefer.


Never heard of such a thing. I'll have to check this out. From a man who makes his living refinishing metals, you have probably tried more things than the rest of us combined.

I'm sorry about the passing of your mother. Mine is 89 and I feel that day is coming soon.

Like Jeff said, I have had some luck with a little WD40 or Hoppes solvent and oil on a finger to remove light rust from critical surfaces. I've also used a small piece of one of those Mr. Clean Magic Erasers (saturated in light oil) for rust that didn't seem to want to come off with a finger. Be careful if you try the Hoppes solvent - it's sometimes aggressive on bluing with friction.