Ok, planer is in the mail, should arrive Wed!

The cabinet face and side and stone are all essentially flush on both sides. I definitely do NOT want to try to remove the stone from the cabinet unless I absolutely have to.
And before I tried to disassemble the existing cabinet, I'd just make a new one.

You'll learn to love it. It takes some practice but a hand held power planer saves so much time on so many projects and is dead on accurate when used correctly!

What is a good brand?

Makita cordless is all we use. I think there's a reyobi floating around somewhere I saw somewhere

Mine is Bosch but yes, the Japanese power tools are really good and cheaper

I'm going to sit here with this thread open until Wednesday to see the planer put to use.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1764561992.jpg

I am a fan of that sweet sweet stove!

Way back, my house had a stove that was 4 burner, brown, and the cabinets were cut for a larger (60?) inch stove. We had a nasty gap. I was making about 20K a year and my wife was a first year teacher. So, money was very tight. My Dad showed up with a junker stove from my Aunt's house. One, it was beautiful - like yours. Two, it actually fit my kitchen. We swapped out our brown POS for a sweet vintage stove and felt like we won the lottery.

So I get it! Congrats!

I didn't read all the posts. if the cabinet is to be installed against the taller one just remove the left panel, cut your style and top and reinstall. AFA is not being symmetrical with the RS cabinet it is what it is (tell the wife). If the inside of the LS interior of the left cabinet means anything, throw a piece of thin veneer or paneling in there.

The proper way to do it is shave both left and right cabinets. Wife happy, you not so much with 2wice the work. Do remember that things expand with heat. Don't make it too tight or you will be sorry. Also that metal top will transfer heat. So will the sides. They are meant to be free standing and code says one inch of air space both sides plus the back.

You really are trying to put a 5 pound load in a 3 lb bag.

I'd build all new cabinets for each side with all the new cool features you might want there. Win, win.

First, I would go with making it less wide rather than more narrow.;)

Assuming Im seeing the problem correctly, I would take that side panel clear off and install on the frame from the inside.

If you’re going to buy a battery powered planer, I would get whatever brand tools you already have. I have a DeWalt planer, but it’s kind of heavy. Maybe they all are?

Planers can throw some wood chips, so tape your shop vac to the outlet to keep dust down.

Having read the thread again and taken note of the additional information, I might have a different opinion. Since you appear to have new cabinets on either side where I thought there were existing walls, I'd make two new small cabinets, as Milt suggested.

I agree. Since the cabinet sides are flush to the opening and so small, I'd just make new boxes using the existing doors

I'd really rather not try to disassemble the glued and nailed cabinet which seems likely to end up breaking things in a way that would make it impossible to get back together cleanly.
Wife's gotta be happy. I can't tell her "live with it" if she's not happy with the results. Fortunately, she thinks she may be ok with the results of thinning the one cabinet.

And because of the way the knuckleheads put the kitchen together, it would involve me having to remove the 7' tall, 650# built-in refrigerator from the one cabinet to get to one (at least) screw that was run the other way between the cabinets. I'm REALLY hoping to avoid moving that fridge.

Interesting. I don't think I've ever seen a stove with a 1" gap on the sides.
Yes, I don't plan to make the fit super tight. And the top edge of the side panels has a ridge, so the rest of the side is farther away from the cabinet on either side (although not an inch). And the top won't be that close to the stone countertop (stands ~¾" proud and bottom edge ~¼" from the stone).

These are basic. No fancy features needed. The missus has plans to install premade pullout features in them.
I'm not confident that the cabinet can be dismantled without being destroyed past the point of reassembly.

I do like and have some battery powered stuff, but for this sort of thing, I went corded. Battery powered stuff is great, but sometimes I want the grunt and staying power of a cord.
That was the original plan. But it seems worth it to see if I can reuse the existing since it's mostly just some of my time. (the new tool is just a bonus).
The main reason that I'm wanting to go or at least try this route if possible is to 1) save some time and money, and 2) not have to remove the enormous refrigerator from the cabinet that it's in.
For the one cabinet that I have already removed, there were a couple of screws from inside the small cabinet into the side of the larger cabinet next to it, and then another couple of screws into the wall behind it. But for the small cabinet that I haven't removed, the knuckleheads that built and installed the cabinets put at least 1 (that I know of) screw from the large cabinet into the small cabinet. The only way to get that screw out is either to cut between the cabinets with a multitool or wheel the refrigerator (650#) out of the cabinet that it's in.

Whether I'm able to thin the existing cabinet, or I try and fail and have to build a new cabinet, it will be a learning experience.

Since you only need to make the opening 1/4”+ or so wider, and give yourself a little more room, I would be inclined to disassemble one side of the cabinet, not install installed.

Instead of trying to break apart the current glued and nailed joint, I would use your Skil saw to cut the box down as needed on the top/bottom/backsides. Once the side is off, you can dress it up the inside of the side you removed,and reattach it.

For the face frame, with an oscillating saw you could detach it from the box, before you cut the box down.

When you reassemble it, the only place somebody might see anything, is the bottom joint on the inside. A bit of caulk will take care of that.

Just food for thought.

planner (for the cabinet) and angle grinder (for the stone top).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1765153135.JPG

It fits. I still need to caulk the front and top of the cabinet to cabinet and cabinet to wall interfaces.

I need to pull it back out and connect to the line and get a propane tank, and do a little maintenance on the oven.

Nicely done, Bravo!
Cool stove

Nice work!

When you say propane tank, are you talking about a big one, outside the house?

Yes, a big one outside the house. Apparently, you can get a 120# tank and mount it just outside the house. If you want the BIG tanks (250gal, 500gal, 1000gal) there are a bunch of codes about how far they have to be from the house, windows, sources of spark, etc.... We don't have anything in the house running on propane so I'm going to go with one of the 120# tanks.

Woo hoo

Is your house plumbed for naural gas? I've re-jetted natural gas stoves to run on propane. It's a pressure thing i believe. Maybe easier to convert? I have a 1920 stove that is individualy carbuerated at each burner and I got it to workhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1765183549.jpg

^^^Pretty sure the difference between NG and LPG is the orifice. I was led to believe it was due to different BTU's way back when I worked in the compressed gas industry. But you know what? An orifice could counter a different pressure so now I don't know what to think.

No, we're too remote for NG. You've posted that stove before, very cool!
Yeah. There are a couple of variations over the years. In some cases, you need to change out the orifice caps at each burner and in the case of some, the orifice caps are adjustable.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1765201874.jpg

or adjustable. This is from my stove.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1765201883.JPG

Yeah, I believe the difference in pressure between NG and LPG is ¼lb VS 4 lb.s or something like that. I remember buying a propane range for a rental once and it came set up for NG but also a zip lock bag with propane jets. Easy job to swap them
.
Steve, I rent a tank from the same gas company I pay to supply and fill it .I thought about buying one but it makes way more sense for me to rent. A 300 gal. tank THEY set up. They are also responsible for the gauge, tank, fire or even if a tree falls on it. All for $45 a year. They come by now and then and fill to 80% and send a bill once a year, beautiful.
Whether you rent or buy, they won't (and shouldn't) fill above 80% so you might want more than a 100 gal tank. You could heat the house with gas! and even add gas lighting (which I did and love) but you would needed at least a 300 gal. tank.

Yeah, I'd love to switch the heat and water heater to propane on top of adding the new stove. We actually looked into getting a larger tank a while back. A larger tank has to be out away from the house, basically in the middle of the yard which the missus doesn't like. It's also possible to have the tank buried which obviously adds a fair amount to the installation costs. A 100# tank is the largest tank that can be installed without having to place the tank away from the house. That's the reason why we are going with that. With the 100# tank, I'm going to have to schlep this thing back and forth to the propane fill place. I have seen that some folks install dual propane tanks when they are smaller. It may be nice to have 2 tanks that way if one runs dry unexpectedly, we have a second. And being able to move 2x 100# tanks will be easier than moving a 200# tank.

No propane service there? I would think there would be. I buried 400' of gas line, and my 300 gal. tank sits inside the gate out of view and danger from the house. The propane truck comes twice a year, spring and fall. They have a key to my gate. No muss no fuss

We could definitely get propane service from one of a couple of places. There are tons of folks around here with propane. Actually, this house had propane at some point in the past. There are still some lines under the house, and I've removed the lines that used to come up through the floor in a couple of spots.

We just don't currently have a need for it with only the stove. And I don't see us replacing the HVAC with something running propane any time soon (although the system is old and should be replaced). It wouldn't hurt to replace the water heater sooner rather than later. I've looked at the hybrid heat-pump water heaters. Initial expense is higher, but I think that would be fairly efficient for us.

Even with a 100 gallon tank you'd need it delivered. An empty 100 gal. tank is over 100 lb.s and full of LPG is well over 500 lb.s

Did I say 100 Gal? No, we're going with 100# tanks, 2 of them. They can be set right up against the house as long as they are 3' (or is it 5') from a window and 10' from an ignition source. 100 pound tanks are 4' tall and 18" around. The propane places won't come fill those, you have to transport the 100# tanks to them.

propane burns hotter then natural gas and that's one of the reason for a smaller orifice.

My bad, 100 pounds not gallons. Still, going to be 170 lb.s full. Rig up a boom to unload? Or maybe a lift gate?

The homes I’m building right now, use propane for the cooktop, water heater, and fireplace. Pressure is 2lbs.

Looks like Texas has different rules for propane/natural gas, than SC. In SC, you can have them closer to the house and property line.

From Texas Best Propane:

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