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-   -   need new garage door: insulated or non-insulated? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/141743-need-new-garage-door-insulated-non-insulated.html)

rfuerst911sc 12-01-2017 06:26 AM

I am currently building a man cave garage and I'm leaning towards insulated roll up doors like 76FJ55 has . I had insulated conventional panel doors in previous home/garage and it make a large difference IF you are heating or cooling the space . Plus as others have stated they reduce noise escaping or entering the space .

UconnTim97 12-01-2017 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamchappy (Post 1097256)
Considering your location I would say non insulated, Here in Minnesota insulated a must. I installed a new door last fall , with a southern exposure, I filled it up with as many windows as possible so I would get more light in like a service station. Not the budget door, but up here in the winter when we cant drive our P cars, a nice warm garage to tinker to help pass the time is whats needed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072814150.jpg

I think that's the first time I have seen phone dials on a 914. I like the look. SmileWavy

cabmandone 12-01-2017 09:48 AM

I regret going with a non insulated door in my shop. I put 1.5" thick foam board in the pockets but it's not nearly as good as the insulated doors. If you have plans to heat the space, go insulated, you'll thank yourself later.

Borders Reivers 12-01-2017 10:44 AM

Installed double-steel wall insulated garage door then installed side-sealing rubber strips on both sides and on top to get as good a seal as possible against drafts and finally installed plastic sealing tape strips along the three horizontal seams and along the bottom to keep moisture from getting into seams and to completely seal garage against drafts. No water drips on car when opening door even after hard rain.
ETA: Yes garage is fully insulated and four season climate-controlled (24,000 btu cool/16,000 btu heat).
Oh yeah, and a Liftmaster jackshaft opener/lock to prevent thieves gaining access with a clothes hanger.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...utput_676.jpeg

RKDinOKC 12-01-2017 11:26 AM

It only gets below freezing a few days a year where my house is. Had to replace the overhead door due to hail damage. Insurance paid for an insulated door even though the existing was not. I usually ran 2 1500 watt thermostatically controlled space heaters to keep temps above freezing the the garage. After the insulated door only need one.

kanadary 12-01-2017 11:30 AM

Costco sells insulated doors and you get 15% back on a costco card. Not sure if that offer is still happening.

Danimal16 12-01-2017 11:32 AM

I live in Southern California. Get the insulated. They are quieter and cooler when it is warm and warm when it is cool. When it gets to 100 plus outside the garage will store the heat. Also, if you get windows in the door get the dark film or other shading put on. It made a big difference in cooling the garage down.

Borders Reivers 12-01-2017 12:53 PM

Windows in garage?

If they can see it, they will steal it.

ted 12-01-2017 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Borders Reivers (Post 9833540)
Windows in garage?

widows frosted, but no windows.

bad guy can see in garage.
no cars and a big ladder or an easy to bust side door,
or a door to the kitchen.
grabs a pillow case and the jewelry to melt.

his mo is garage door with windows and no cars.

ted 12-01-2017 02:32 PM

For a 68 period correct would be a light patina California jamb door.
Safety wires in springs a plus. :):)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512171108.jpg

Nine, Frau! 12-02-2017 08:58 AM

The extra weight from insulation will require the springs to be adjusted or new springs altogether. My insulated door was one of the best improvements I made to my condo. Overhead door custom cut the tiles and adjusted the springs on my existing door for 500

Anyame 11-01-2018 04:34 AM

About 10 years ago I added styrofoam panels to my aluminum overhead shop doors. My shop is 24 x 36. Our climate is generally warm (San Diego inland). In the summer the air temps will hit close to 108 for a week or so at a time and in the winter, the daytime lows might be in the 40's occasionally and night-time lows in the mid 30's occasionally.

I have two OH doors (one is a double-wide and the other is a single-wide) and both face West. The single-wide door has a single vertical metal stiffener in the middle. The double-wide has 3 stiffeners. The stiffners are exposed and reduce the benefit of the insulation a bit. I bought either 3/4 or 1" 4x8' sheets and cut them with a drywall knife. The door panels had a horizontal lip , so I could stuff the panels inside of the lip and not need any adhesive. I had to slightly squash the styrofoam on the edges to get it to slip under the lip. The shop walls have 3-1/2" fiberglass batts and the ceiling has 6" FG batts. So the OH doors were the biggest factor for heat gain/loss in the workshop.

Adding the best garage door insulation for heat makes a big difference both in the winter and summer. I'm glad that I did that.

BTW, I really like the looks of the foil backed panels from Charlie Hinton. I'm wondering if both sides were foil lined or not. If not, I'm wondering if they might have been more effective with the foil towards the summer heat-source.

onewhippedpuppy 11-01-2018 05:02 AM

Blast from the past! I didn't notice the date until I saw Vash posting about his girlfriend!

lendaddy 11-01-2018 05:07 AM

My new home is being built right now and this is an area I am struggling with, the costs seem asinine. I am having two doors installed (Clopay insulated) with Liftmaster jackshaft openers (high lift track to my 13' ceiling) and am looking at about $5k installed. The doors themselves are 18x8 with a column of small frosted windows ($2,500) and a 9x 8 without windows ($1,100). The rest is the openers and install. The silly windows ran about $800 alone but are part of the homes look so they kind of have you by the short ones.

I also have a workshop in the basement and I spec'd a 7' wide double door to the rear patio (no center bar) so I can drive a car in there as well. This was my best decision so far, looks great and extremely functional for very little cost.

Bottom line is I know I could do better on the doors but those opportunities are everywhere in a new build, chasing them all will drive you crazy and kill momentum (unless you have a lot of free time). Just thought I'd share my experience for reference,

VincentVega 11-01-2018 05:12 AM

Insulate if only to keep the noise down

onewhippedpuppy 11-01-2018 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lendaddy (Post 10235694)
My new home is being built right now and this is an area I am struggling with, the costs seem asinine. I am having two doors installed (Clopay insulated) with Liftmaster jackshaft openers (high lift track to my 13' ceiling) and am looking at about $5k installed. The doors themselves are 18x8 with a column of small frosted windows ($2,500) and a 9x 8 without windows ($1,100). The rest is the openers and install. The silly windows ran about $800 alone but are part of the homes look so they kind of have you by the short ones.

I also have a workshop in the basement and I spec'd a 7' wide double door to the rear patio (no center bar) so I can drive a car in there as well. This was my best decision so far, looks great and extremely functional for very little cost.

Bottom line is I know I could do better on the doors but those opportunities are everywhere in a new build, chasing them all will drive you crazy and kill momentum (unless you have a lot of free time). Just thought I'd share my experience for reference,

You are in Michigan, spring for insulated doors with windows. First cold day you'll thank me, and the difference is significant. The windows are also surprisingly helpful, natural light cannot be beat. I went from uninsulated and no windows to insulated with windows, worth every penny and we don't have your level of cold.

pksystems 11-01-2018 06:26 AM

Insulated here. My sisters has same brand un-insulated. Her garage door is super noisy, and yes, it's the door, not the motor.

Skip windows, unless you want to make it easy for criminals to unlock/open your overhead door from outside. All they need is a coat hanger.

island911 11-01-2018 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Borders Reivers (Post 9833396)
Installed double-steel wall insulated garage door then installed side-sealing rubber strips on both sides and on top to get as good a seal as possible against drafts and finally installed plastic sealing tape strips along the three horizontal seams and along the bottom to keep moisture from getting into seams and to completely seal garage against drafts. No water drips on car when opening door even after hard rain.
ETA: Yes garage is fully insulated and four season climate-controlled (24,000 btu cool/16,000 btu heat).
Oh yeah, and a Liftmaster jackshaft opener/lock to prevent thieves gaining access with a clothes hanger.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...utput_676.jpeg

This.

Seals will give better thermal management than foam on panels.

Tobra 11-01-2018 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by widebody911 (Post 1097265)
I insulated my garage door myself using 1" styrofoam and liquid nails. Last time I was at HD, they actually sold pre-cut styrofoam for this purpose.

If you do it, do this. Only worthwhile if the door faces south. A decent door will already have the rubber seals around the edges.

If you use the foil styrofoam stuff, foil side faces out.

Danimal16 11-01-2018 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pksystems (Post 10235780)
Insulated here. My sisters has same brand un-insulated. Her garage door is super noisy, and yes, it's the door, not the motor.

Skip windows, unless you want to make it easy for criminals to unlock/open your overhead door from outside. All they need is a coat hanger.

Get a torsion bar opener. They also make anti-jimmy devices that easily defeats that old time method. Oh and a security camera in the garage like a Ring alerts on the bad guy.


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