Surfers: Bigger the better?
 

I've just bought a new Malibu. It's a wopper, it's 10'2".

I've already got my 6'10" and an 8'2" so I thought I'd buy a really big one for days when the surf is really *****ty and for two foot days.

I haven't tried it out yet and it was too windy (seriously) to carry it home 200 yards from the surf shop, but I thought it might be nice to take first timers out on and to lend to kids so they can easily get a wave.

Anyone else got a really big Mal'?

I built my own board last year - 10' 2"

The biggest mistake I made on it was making it too wide, so it's a b!tch to carr. The 2nd mistake was over-glassing it - I was worried about strength, so I ended up with a tank. I want to build another one. When I do, I I'll probably use carbon fiber or carbon-kevlar instead of S-glass, and order a blank with a double or triple stringer. Oh, and I'll order it with more rocker next time.

I don't have good pix of the board handy, so these will have to do:

http://www.vintagebus.com/gallery/image/2001757.JPG
http://www.vintagebus.com/gallery/image/2001762.JPG
http://www.vintagebus.com/gallery/image/2001712.JPG

My biggest is a 9'8", single fin, it's heavy and gets into waves nice and early. I took it out this morning at Cardif Reef, it was very small but it started building and after an hour we had consistent head high sets. I could sit outside and have my pick of the set waves.

Thom - love the panel bus! I've owned a bunch of type II's over the years. Have you heard any word on when the new micro bus is coming out?

we dropped the in-laws off at the airport today and went to Manhattan Beach for lunch. El Porto was fairly going off...light off shore winds and about head high. Unfortunately the weather started turning, and I couldn't get home and back to the beach in time to catch any action.

As for board, mine is 42". But I'm a heretic sponger...

Hehe, it looks good on the bus.

I've just come back from taking it out. It's a perfect small day, about chest hight at the most, and zero wind (no wind is unusual for around this place), and it was quite good. One thing I did notice is I've got to start paddling pretty early and get it moving properly. And late take offs are out of the question.

Thom I can just get my arm around it and it has a nice light coat of glass, so it should be fun.

Todd, I love hearing these famous place names. It's been 23 years since I enjoyed LA and it's beaches :)

I built a board for a friend using the exact same blank, but a little narrower and a lighter glass job, and his works great. I have the late take-off issue as well, which is why I'd like to incorportate more rocker into my next one.

On the small days here in NorCal (which is most of them, it seems) we're catching waves on these boards while everyone else is sitting around looking wet and unhappy.

Ha ha, how satisfying Thom. We get lots of knee to waist hight waves here too, so it will be nice to get out there and enjoy it.

• 11' surfboard blank - $150
• umpteen yards of S-glass and resin - $175
• 40 hours of labor - $0
• grabbing any wave I want on a 2' day @ Pedro Point while the teenagers wallow like dead seals in the water on their 5' boards - priceless

and the opportunity cost?

I was temporarily unemployed at the time...

good trade! :D