I sold my road and mtn bikes about 6 months ago. I had a couple hours to kill yesterday and walked into a SuperGo shop in Vista and saw this Specialized Allez Comp for $1400 -
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084296062.jpg

Man bikes have come a long way since my Trek 2300 Carbon - this bike was very cool. Sure it's not a custom fit or European, but hell this bike looks like a performer. I recently separated my shoulder so in too much pain to test ride. Seriously considering a road bike again though I went in to look for a mtn bike. :confused:

Hardest part is finding the time to put in the miles. Road riding S*#KS unless you've got some sort of fitness base. I'm tipping 195 these days to so even a freeway overpass looks daunting.

rcm, 20 miles sounds like a lot of miles just starting out. I used my first rides as shakedown cruises, not pushing or anything. This allowed me to get the bike setup close and also got my first wreck out of the way (ran off the road when I was wasn't paying attention). Doh!

dmoolenaar, anything over $800-1000 is pretty high zoot these days. I sure am glad I'm self-employed, otherwise there'd be no way I could get in 35 milers the past few days. By the time you add in time to stretch, warm-up, and shower, you're looking at 2.5 hours easy. It hurts, but it's worth it when I can crack a big smile while pounding the pedals up a long hill. I finally got my seat height dialed in, and it's nirvana. Also got a new saddle the other day, Fizik Aliante. It's awesome, but I haven't been able to get in a long ride (pulled back muscle).

go for it. the pain is worth it. get the specialized and be like cipollini :)

That's what I was thinking but nearly every bike in the place, they had 200 easy, were over $1K, and lots were over $2K.

Ah the pain. The first couple rides are great but then the torture starts (saddle, legs, lungs, back, neck, ouch). Plus I'm pretty competitive so I always push too hard to keep up. At 195 I'm a good 30 lbs off my fighting weight - was a good all rounder (read not great at anything). Liked to think I could climb (and loved doing it) unless there were some real climbers on the ride who would drop me without trying. :(

Jurgen: Also got a new saddle the other day, Fizik Aliante.

Funny, I just got a loaner Arione from the shop, and will swap to a loaner Aliante to see which I like best. The guy at the shop is adamant that the Aliante is the best saddle ever made...

Rick - I agree that a 20 miler sounds like too much too soon - you need to get your muscles and tendons back into shape.

It's all about the engine. The bike just isn't much of the equation. I'm still struggling to match my old fitness last year, and I have a bike twice as expensive as the last.

Look at it this way, would you rather not ride and be 30 lbs over your fighting trim, or ride and have some fun at say 8 lbs over your prizefight weight? I like climbing if it's not at the end of a ride. Climbs at the end are just brutal, but they do build strength; at least I hope they do. :)

I just got back from a 55km ride on the Aliante (first ride on this saddle). It was great. The saddle is a little wider and fits my sit bones really well. I do still feel a little pressure in the perenial area, but it's a lot better than my old saddle. I need to adjust the saddle up in the front more to see if that keeps me on the sit bones more. If I could get enough carbs down my throat, I know I could ride on that saddle another 55km. My butt feels like I never even rode today, and that's excellent in my book. Well worth the $140US. jürgen

First accident of 2004:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1087951999.jpg

Four dogs assaulted me. First dog got me higher on my right leg. Second dog decided to show the first how to bite. The above pic is the result. It is worse than it looks, because the skin and tissue is protruding from my leg (guess that's what happens when canine gets his teeth inside you).

On the bright side, I shaved the area to make cleaning easier, and I admit I do like it smooth. I looked in the mirror to make sure there was no gay pride rainbow flag on my forehead, and sure enough I am not gay. However, it's d@mn hard to shave way down there. You need to be a contortionist.:eek: Jürgen

Hahaha, bet you didn't expect to end up shaving your legs for a dog bite. Almost as weak as my excuse ;)

I hope it is healing up all ok!!!!!

Knee's feeling pretty good now - I've learned to pedal straight. I bought the ridiculously expensive Fizik seat, and a (generic) carbon seatpost. The seatpost is the best US$60 I've ever spent - it has almost completely removed the whack in the butt from going over a bump in the road, and I only have about 6" of it exposed.

Been mountain biking quite a bit too - its winter now and the rain has made the sand-base forest hard and fast :D. I hugged a tree though last time out.

For those who live in LA, keep an eye out for a cheap TdF worthy bike:

And finally, I am so excited about the Tour de France starting in only a coupla weeks. Both Armstrong and Ullrich are looking very good (although Ullrich's team is a bit depleted), Iban Mayo is looking even better, and there are a few wild card possibilities. Plus it will be interesting to see if Allessandro Petacchi can make it over the first mountain pass this time (because he oughta win a few sprint finishes before then).

CamB, you're the second person who tells me carbon seatposts are comfortable. Maybe there is something I'm overlooking.

TdF fever has even hit the land of rednecks. Everybody and their mother is waving at me. If a wave means they see me and don't run over me, I'm all for it.
Go Armstrong!!!!

Turbo, Yes carbon seat post make a difference in feel. Carbon has a natrual attribute of deadening vibration without being "too flexy" That is why all good road forks now have carbon blades and steer tubes. I have carbon post, Reynolds Ozo pro fork. My frame isa Felt F1 Scandium and it stiff as an Alloy frame gets but it is super dreamy to ride, it feels like you are on somthing as comfortable as a nice cromo frame but pedals like a stiff alloy frame. I have a carbon post on my ATB (Hardtail) and that is the place I really notice its help.

Comfort wise I think a carbon post is the best money a person can spend, next would be a fork, but those get pricy and that is a place you cant skimp.

What's really strange is that I've seen plenty of internet debate over whether 6" of carbon seatpost can make any difference. I hadn't even ridden out of the carpark at the shop before I knew it was better.

Mind you, I had a giant Giant boat anchor seatpost (about 45cm long!).

ariane - nice bike :D Bike people who know better than me tell me that scandium alloy frames are comfier than regular (eg 7005) alloy frames, so that bike must be niiiice.

Yep, I read the debate of carbon vs. Ti vs. Al, and I decided to forego the carbon post to save $30. Well, perhaps that was a bad decision.

I'm running an Interloc Scandium frameset. The builder tells me it's stinky light, but of course I use cheapo Blackburn plastic bottle cages and run heavy butyl inner tubes, so the bucker weighs 19 lbs with saddle bag. :)

Cam:

Thanks the bike is great. Yes, Scandium is nicer to ride. I worked for Felt when I got it and started on the F40 7005 frame (56cm weighed 2.7lbs) and it was a tad more harsh but still nice. I switched to the F1 (56cm weighs 2.5 Lbs) The deal is Scandium adds about 30% more strength property when alloyed with 7005, so you can have a frame that is hypotheticly 30% lighter and just as strong or same weight and 30% stronger etc. The Scandium allowed us to increas the butt lenghts and decreast the butt tapers. The OD of the tubing was very similar. But there is a noticable difference between Scandium and 7005 or 6061. It is hard to discribe beuause it pedals just as stiff as anything but feels so damn nice you thing it should be whipy or flexy. Mine tips the scales at 16.4 Lbs ready to ride with Campy Chours/Record, It rides as solid as any bike I have ever ridden, and me being 210Lbs I can put the hurt to a light bike.

19lbs with a saddle bag is darn nice. I remeber not too long ago having to spend thousands of dollars to get a bike under 23lbs. Well maybe that was 15 years ago. LOL

Wow, 16.4lb on a bike thats ok for 210lb :D What you say is what I was told - that it rides a bit more like steel.

My (alloy) Giant is 9.2kg or so (20.2lb) as ridden - meaning with saddle bag and pump (only 300gms for both mind you, so I'm looking at 8.9kg with pedals). Its light enough for my abilities... plus there are no longer any "cheap" ways to make it lighter!

Periodically I go over to www.competitivecyclist.com and build up a "dream" bike - currently a Pegoretti Marcelo (hey, steel is real). I like old school thin tubes.

Cam:

Yeah, 20Lbs is light enough for me too. But Back when I was a sales rep for Felt, going into dealers and letting them ride my bike I needed a light bike. I turned into a gram whore. I used the FSA carbon cranks and Ti BB. I could do a bunch more to make it lighter but I have no need. Besideds my campy Wheels arent that light but they are bullit proof. I have never had to touch them up in 5K miles. Jumping curbs crapy roads and all.

I was chatting with Richard the owner of Speedplay pedals and he was telling me about his 10lb custom everything bike. But for $20K (thats US $ too) you too can have a bike that light. THats serouisly what he spent.

Some of my favorite bikes I have ever owned have been steel. Yes, Steel is real!

This place really is a "toy shop" for all things mechanical.... I've always liked bikes I just never got too much into it knowing that I would not ride enough to warrant the expense. That being said, I've recently relocated and don't have a parking space for my car. Once it's parked, I don't even dare moving it since in the spot that it's in now, I've only had 3 parking tix since October.

Lately I have begun to get around more and what better way than a bike, while contributing to my fitness level too.

So I'm undecided as far as choices. I used to be all gung ho about mountaing bikes, but in reality, since I'll be travelling around a city, does it even make sense to have a mountain bike? I'm beginning to lean towards the svelte, light, road bikes more and more. After all, aren't they built for pavement? Or is a mountain bike more at home in the city due to its ruggedness?

Any suggestions on setups or components that I should be looking at? Certain beginner geometries? What are the crucial systems? Is Shimano still considered the Microsoft of bikedom or do their components have their place?

I know that whichever way I go (mtn vs. road) I don't want a softtail. For additional fun they would be cool, but as far as getting into it I'm looking for the full basic experience.... kinda like avoiding ABS and pwr steering.

As far as convenience, would it make sense to go to a single speed, or is that just an old school trend that's adhered to by the purists and messengers? On the uphills it sure helps to be fit, right?

---ready to absorb your experience.....

edit: if I do find out I'm out of shape, can I add gears to a single speed bike, or is that always frame-dependent?

Dave there are so many choices on road bikes.
My favorite at the moment is a track bike thats right, one gear one front brake, but what fun! You really learn alot.
Look at cyclocross bikes they combine both mtn & road I ride these too and can do quite a few things.
Shimano is what I run on all my bikes for the most part.
Light is good but look at what you are going to do with it curb jumping ect. shortens the life of a light bike.
frame material thats a big one too, gotta ride a few to see what you like best.

Hi Dave,

For kicking around the city and commuting I would go with a Mountain bike outfitted with street tires. Very forgiving but still a fast bike if you're legs & lungs are up to it. Look for quality Shimano group sets (LX minimum), you won't regret it. For a decent new bike expect to pay $550 minimum. One stroll through the bike shop and you'll see that most bikes are in the $1K range and up. Focus on quality components, good wheels, and a frame that fits your body well. It's like shoes, a 9 from one brand might be a 9.5 in another. One more thing to consider, figure another $200 or so for cycling gear (pump, spare tubes, patch kit, shorts, jersey, bottle, helmet, shoes, etc...) Not having this stuff is like driving your Porsche without a windshield.

That said I finally popped for a new MTN bike. Didn't have a big budget so I picked up this for $600 + no sales tax.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1090002021.jpg

It has the basics I was looking for and is a hard tail. I'm into climbing endlessly long and ugly trails but a baby on the downhill so I had no interest in dual suspension - though that technology has come a long long way from my old GT LTS bike. Soon to upgrade items include the bottom bracket, crank set, seat, post, and bar/stem. 1 week and I'm loving the disk brakes.

You're also best off waiting until Fall to buy. That's when the new models start appearing in time for Xmas. Older models get slashed down in price quite nicely.

I'd buy a used bike off Ebay. The depreciation is crazy on bikes. There are sizing calculators on the net that will guide you to the right size.

I would go with an inexpensive mountain bike fitted with slicks, as dmoolenaar suggests. A road bike will tax your body, unless you have the fitness to support. Then, if you like riding, consider a nice road bike. Some advantages to the mountain bike are wider tires and stronger wheels, which are great for poor city roads. However, a mountain bike won't be as comfortable over long distances (say over a couple hours), and boy they sure are heavy.

Frames are built for single speed or multiple speeds, so you need to decide in the beginning. For putzing around, a cheap single speed might be the ticket, but multiple gears give you more flexibility if your muscles or the terrain presents challenges. :)
Jürgen