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Home electrical wiring question...complete with diagram
I'm doing a "refresh" on one of my bathrooms (1/2 bath) and I want to accomplish two things. 1- switch two switches so the light switch is closest to the door jamb and the exhaust fan switch is the next one over AND 2 - add a GFI outlet.
I'll be removing a two gang metal "new construction" box and replacing with a three gang "Old Work" plastic box to accomodate the outlet. I figure switching the switches is easy enough so my question really centers around adding the outlet. Can I safely feed the fan and light through the outlet (pass through?). I understand that load is a concern. Next, going on the technique used originally, is it common practice to share the Hot lead from one switch to the other? They merely stripped a piece of insulation midway on the hot lead, wrapped around first switch connector and went on to the next switch. Finally, The ground wires in the original setup terminate with a screw into the metal housing. With the plastic box can I merely join all the ground wires and cap off as shown? Any advice is appreciated. Hope my diagram isn't too confusing.
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. Last edited by RickM; 03-17-2004 at 01:59 PM.. |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,979
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Yeah, you're good. If you have any doubts, buy a deep 3 gang box and pigtail your black wire and distribute the hot. I hope your fan is not a heater type. Otherwise, there is not a load problem wiring thru the outlet and your fan and light will be protected by the GFI.
As you said, just pigtail the ground wires. I usually like to buy metal boxes even for remodel work. You can usually find one that will work like a remodel box. Mount with screws from a long phillips bit in your gun/drill or a long screwdriver. |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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No need to remove the box. You can get a Decora stack switch rated for fans and lights. No need to bust out drywall and use a cut in box that way. Your wiring should be fine, just remember other items can be on that hot coming into the bathroon switch box. So if something doesnt work right elsewhere in the house it could be because that GFI has tripped causing no power down stream. Use a tester or turn of the breaker that feeds that box to see what else is on it. By distributing the power like Zeke suggested you can eliminate that potential problem.
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Dan Byers |
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Thanks Milt and Dan.
No heater/light going in here so load should be good. I also understand the effects of a GFI outlet on downstream connections. Regarding the Metal remodel box. Does it work with the flip out ears like the Home Depot plastic type? Your "Mount with screws from a long phillips bit in your gun/drill or a long screwdriver." through me off a bit. I'm guessing you suggest the long shaft driver to screw in on an angle. Thanks again.
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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Rick, You can find metal cut in boxes with "wings". They are called tiger boxes in my area. Bowers part # 52OW. Put 2 or 3 together to make a 2 or 3 gang metal cut in with wings. These boxes are also deeper for more wiring room. Home Depot may not have them. If you want some, drop me a PM and I can send you some.
Your existing box is probably nailed to a stud so a Bowers 133 can be used and screwed to the stud as Milt suggested. I still like the idea of a stack switch if you can. Reduces clutter on the wall in that small bath.
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Dan Byers |
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Thanks for the offer, Dan. I'll venture over to an electrical supply place at lunch and check out the Tiger box as well as a stack switch. I'll most likely be able to source everything locally.
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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Quote:
AFIK, the tiger box is designed to disassemble and 'gang' up as many as you need. At a 3 gang, it's a mess. Dan's suggestion for stack switches or other combos is spot on. |
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