Laying pipe
 

I started working on the air line plumbing for the new shop. Everything is going well, except I can't figure out how to get this one valve connected without leakage. I'm using 1/2" galvanized pipe, surface-mounted with UnitStrut. My initial plan is to have 3 outlet 'stations' with 3/8" and 1/4" outlets at each station. I'm also considering running an overhead line for a drop reel, but I haven't decided if that's really necessary yet.

The pipe goes underground for almost 20', which will cool the air nicely. I have a water trap and then a filter first thing for when the air gets into the garage. Once all the pipes are set, I'll adjust everything so it slopes back towards the compressor.

I'm having a problem getting the valve both tight and clocked correctly, which I'll probably have to solve by using a longer nipple so the valve doesn't bottom out on the elbow.

Any pointers would be appreciated!

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thom, any reason why you would not use sweated copper once it gets inside? seems the cutting and fitting of the pipe might be easier. you can get copper to brass/pipe fittings for the termination/outlet points.

I laid some pipe earlier this morning. Seems to go smoother if you eat some fruit the night before.

.....oh! that kind of pipe, sorry


no really, it looks like you've done a nice job.

laying pipe- he,he

That's the problem when you use close nipples like you have.
The fittings butt up sometimes before they get good and tight.
Try teflon tape, you can build it up with more raps around the pipe going counter clockwise so it won't back off and that might get the valve tight where you want it to be.
If you didn't already you can put some pipe dope ( sealer ) on the unions were they mate up inside to seal them good too.

I'd be carefuf not to tighten the nipples into your water seperator too much the plastic could split.

I havn't done any plumbing in years but using heavy gauge plastic might be the way to go now days if it will take the pressure.
:)

I had the same problem when I tried usiing threaded pipe for my air compressor set-up. Leaks-o-plenty. I ended up getting a "how to" book, a few tools, and did everything over with copper pipe. It took me a few tries to get the technique just right, but I have no leaks at all now.

for me, coffee does the trick.

I think some of you guys are confusing "Laying Pipe" and "Laying Cable"

I thought he was talking about Piping Cable.

Not sure, but but I would have the pipe go underground to condense air, have a downwards-sloping zig(and a drain spigot) near the floor, then go up over the ceiling down to another drain spigot near the floor.
About halfway down that pipe would feed to the outlets, which face upwards to trap liquid water in the pipes.
The first would get the majority of water collected and the second would be for any remaining.

There was a site that talked about using copper to disburse heat, and putting the output loop through a bucket of ice water to condense all water in the lines. Also, most of the noise was from the compressor intake.

This thread is not at all what I thought it would be.

What John says....(I think)
I usually see a trap like in a Natural gas line. Usually with a ball valve.

Nice work Thom. Are those wall mounts a Home Depot item? Is your compressor outside?

For sealing galv joints try a ptfe goop. I use it for all threaded connections (not on my car), it is usually spec'd for gas lines (black pipe). It is non-hardening and shouldn't pollute your air.
-Jeremy

I re-did the fitting at the valve with a longer nipple, and now it's tight.

I'm using a non-hardeningpipe sealant already, and getting stuff as tight as I can.

The interfaces to the air dryer and filter are metal - no Harbor Freight crap here!

The compressor lives outside, but I have an insulated cover for it to protect it from the elements and keep the noise down.

I thought about using plastic pipe but everyone warned me away from it, although I've seen a lot of shops with PVC air supplies.

When I paint, I put an extra hose inline and coil it up in a bucket of water; I hadn't tried ice water. Going thru the ground will drop the air temp quite a bit though.

The wall mounts are a Home Depot item, colloquially known as "uni-strut". It's a much nicer system than clamping directly to the wall.

To reduce moisture you may want to add risers and drains as detailed here: http://www.tptools.com/statictext/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

haha....that's what I was thinking....:D