Baseboard trim installation question
 

I just finished a refresh on a powder room and installed the wooden base board. While it looks nice there is a slight bow in the wall and I see a gap were I can't nail since there's no stud behind the area?

What are the tricks to making a closer-to-the-wall fit? Shoot glue behind the base board and place a heavy object against it till dry?

BTW, I kept the finish natural (Poly-acrylic clear satin) and shot 16 ga finish nails to secure. Also, the baseboard is over textured paper wallpaper.

There should be a bottom plate in the wall framing which provides backing for the baseboard fasteners at every point along the wall, and prevents any "bow" at the bottom. Something is goofy with your framing if you have nowhere to nail between studs.

TT --(retired carpenter)

So I'd nail at an angle down ito the base plate?

The best you can do is shoot into the bottom plate and pull the baseboard in as tight as possible. A gap along the top of the baseboard and between the stud is tough to fix. You could try shimming at the very bottom of the baseboard and shooting into the bottom plate above the shim, which might bring the top in. Good luck

Finish carpenters use white bathroom caulk to fill the gap. You should always caulk the seam on the top of the baseboard, it looks more finished.

Hugh,

The problem is there is only one spot with a small gap. Additionally, if I fill with caulk it'll look like crap between natural wood and the wall paper.

Ttweed 'n Burnin: Is this what you recommend? I hope the 2 1/2" nails will be long enough.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092677397.jpg

Place the shim (something small) behind the baseboard. The shim is the pivot point and when you nail above the shim and into the baseboard, it will pull the top in - somewhat.

Ok...kind of the see-saw effect?

'zactly

Thanks guys!

doesn't anyone use duct tape anymore?

Didn't you get the memo? Duct tape was the 90s. This is the decade of the zip-tie. :)

TT

i just clicked on your link to solo car, the number is blue duct taped, no zip ties, time for another update!! lol

but that fuel system is chock full o' zip ties!!!!

if the trafic is not too high. you also might be able to get away with putting a nial in from the top of the moulding at a 10 degree angle (say from 1 oclock to 7 oclock) while holding the baseboard against the drywall. the idea being that the nail catches the drywall at a sharp enough angle to hold the baseboard in. Youll probably need more than one nail. Iv e done it in a pinch in the past.

ps. push on the baseboard with a piece of wood not your hand. Ive seen nails do 90 degree turns when shot at crazy angles.

can you put some type of fastener behind the wallboard, and pull it out a bit with the fastener scrrew,,,,,,like those spring loaded nuts, or a plastic sleeve thingy? how aboout sliding a coat hanger behind it underneath, close to the floor, pulling the wallboard out while glueing and inserting fastener?

how about a nice trim piece over the gap?

clear caulk might take care of it or perhaps a strategicly placed plant/laundry basket/magazine rack.