Compressor mounting and piping question

[RickM]

Just bought a 7hp / 60 gallon vertical compressor. Comes with thin metal/steel isolation plates and it is recommended that the unit be bolted to the floor.

I will be securing to concrete. Question 1:
- Do I sink some type of fastener that I screw a bolt into or
- some type of stud that protrudes out of the floor and I secure with a nut?

I don't have much experience with concrete fasteners other than the lead inserts that are placed into a pre drilled hole. I don't have much confidence in that system for securing a heavy vibrating compressor.

Question 2:

I states clearly not to attach a solid pipe to the compressor outlet but rather to use a flexible pipe. Any recommendations?

TIA !

[widebody911]

You're probably better off putting an insert into the hole and bolting to that.

You need a short piece of flexable hose if you are going to connect the compressor to hard plumbing. A hydraulic shop could make one of these up for you; mine was ~$10.

[RickM]

Any type of fastener you can recommend?

[928ram]

I've used the lag bolt/lead insert system with compressors before with no problems, just get good size ones.

On #2 I'm assuming by "outlet" it's speaking of a factory installed regulator? For permanant-type HD installs there's normally a bung on the tank that can be removed and steel pipe threaded in from there.

[RickM]

I'll take a pic of the threaded hole in the side of the tank. Seems there should be a plug of some sort. Going with theaded pipe seem to go against their recommendation. Perhaps it's because the unit is on isolation pads and it is advised not to tighten the mounting bolts too much. I assume the vibration would be detrimental to a hard mounted piping system.

[widebody911]

What they don't want you doing is connecting the compressor to mounted plumbing via a solid link - the vibration will wreak havoc on the lines. You can thread pipe into the tank, but you need a flexible link between that tand the air lines you run around your shop.

If you're using it standalone, ie you don't have air lines plumbed in/on your walls, then you don't have a problem.

[Evans, Marv]

Rick:
You might try drilling holes in the concrete with a hammer drill and masonry bit. Use your compressor legs to mark the holes. Then just get some all-thread (threaded rod) maybe 3/8ths to 1/2 inch - whichever you decide to use. Drill smaller starter holes to start with & then drill them out to a bigger diameter than your rod. You can use quick drying cement (Readicret - sp?) to anchor the rods. Then you could put a thick rubber washer under each foot & one on top to anchor the compressor & compensate for some of the vibration.

[dad911]

Rick, check out the piping diagram here: http://www.tptools.com/statictext/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

[Rot 911]

Alan, nice diagram!

[Zeke]

Originally posted by Evans, Marv
Rick:
You might try drilling holes in the concrete with a hammer drill and masonry bit. Use your compressor legs to mark the holes. Then just get some all-thread (threaded rod) maybe 3/8ths to 1/2 inch - whichever you decide to use. Drill smaller starter holes to start with & then drill them out to a bigger diameter than your rod. You can use quick drying cement (Readicret - sp?) to anchor the rods. Then you could put a thick rubber washer under each foot & one on top to anchor the compressor & compensate for some of the vibration.

Epoxy would work well too. That's required for rebar when tying into an existing footing for a romm addition. At least here in CA.

If you have studs sticking up, you will have more of a problem if you decide to move the compressor to another location. The lead shield and lag bolt should be enough.

If you go the stud and rubber pad route, use a nylock.

[RickM]

Originally posted by Zeke
If you have studs sticking up, you will have more of a problem if you decide to move the compressor to another location. The lead shield and lag bolt should be enough.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to try the lead anchors and bolts (Maybe I'll coat the anchors with epoxy first ). Seems to be more practical than protruding studs.

..oh yes, thanks to Alan for that excellent link.

[FastDave]

Be sure to use some type of vibration dampener between the compressor and the concrete. All air compressors create vibration. If a rubber or other type of dampener is not used it can possibly cause the frame to crack where the compressor pump or motor is mounted or even where the frame is mounted to the tank (especially on lesser expensive compressors). I've seen it happen. Most air compressors are shipped on a pallet type support and if this support tends to "walk" when the compressor is running it is the result of vibration.

[FastDave]

And concerning the piping question; PVC pipe is the most economical solution and is easier to work with. Larger PVC such as 1-1/2" diameter can actually serve as a reservoir for more reserve air capacity. DO NOT USE PVC IF YOU ARE USING SYNTHETIC OIL IN YOUR COMPRESSOR PUMP - IT WILL BREAK DOWN THE BONDING AGENTS USED TO ADHERE THE PVC. A flexible hose is always recommended to use between the tank and whatever type of pipe used when secured to the wall...again to reduce vibration.

[Evans, Marv]

You can try the lag bolts with the lead shields, but I don't know if I would trust that to hold up over a long period of time. If they don't work, you can try something else later. As far as studs protruding from the concrete, a dremel should take care of that, if you ever want to move the compressor.

[RickM]

Dave, Thanks for chiming in. As I mentioned in my initial post, the unit came with 3 isolation pads. Basically a 1/16" thick piece of rubber that is sandwiched between two identically sized steel plates. The rubber seems awfully thin but that's what came with the unit. The instructions advise against tightening the mounting bolt too much when using the pads.

I plan on using 1/2 black pipe as the concensus seems to recommend it. I also won't be running much of it.

I'll take Thom's advise on find a hydraulic hose place to make a flexible interface for the tank to piping hook-up. If there is one readily available and inexpensive feel free to let me know.

Thanks.

[RickM]

Marv, That was my initial worry....vibration will loosen the lead anchors. As you say, if they don't work I can resort to Plan B.

[FastDave]

Rick,
All you need to do is put an elbow in your pipe and turn toward
the compressor, get it with 12" - 18" and put the short hose in
between.
Let me know if I can help,
Dave

[widebody911]

The place where I got my hose made up (an air tool specialty store) sells cool little cork & rubber pads for sitting a compressor on. Mine is bolted to a pallet; since it's outside, and in it's own house, I never really worried about the noise. I bought these big rubber disks with holes in them to isolate it, but I found they work great as pads for the lift.

The setup outlined in the diagram is The Bomb, but probably overkill for a home shop.

My compressor sits outside, and I plumbed my supply line underground, cools the air nicely. I have a drier and a drier-filter in sequence, and the 2nd one never gets any water.

[RickM]

Thom, What brand / type of drier? I'm shopping for a filter/regulator now.

Dave: I'm going to have to measure the tank outlet. I'd like to plumb everything to that diameter. I'm guessing it's 1/2". Milton make that size?

[widebody911]

Don't recall the brand - gotta look when I get home.

A cool accessory to get is an auto-drain for the dryer.