Wooden Floor Refinishing question

[RickM]

Here's the deal:

I just pulled up carpet from a hallway that sees a fair amount of use. I'm left with a Oak (Select grade?) floor. Since the carpet has been there for many years the finish has darkened quite a bit. That coupled with darkened tack holes and other surface imperfections make it necessarry to refinish.

I'm plannning on having the floors in 2-3 rooms refinished and want to wait until that project and include this hallway as well.
In the mean time I have lightly sanded the perimeter of the hallway with a medium grit paper (Belt and orbital). I just sanded enough to remove the darkening. After applying a finish to the perimeter I will throw a 20' runner down and call it a day.

Now my question. Keeping in mind that this floor will be redone by a pro in about a year, what finish should I apply? I guess I want something that will look good and will be "easy" for him to remove.

Should I use a sealer first and then a clear topcoat?
Shellac, Water based Poly?

[azasadny]

Rick,
I'm going through this right now and my floor refinisher recommended "water-based poly" for a temp finish because it's easy for him to sand off and refinish...

[VINMAN]

I refinshed mine recently. I used Benjamin Moore StaysClear Satin finish. I'ts water based. The floors came out great
I wouldnt bother using a sealer., if your are going to do them over again soon.

[RickM]

Great. Thanks guys!

I was figuring the sealer would prevent the "harder" poly from getting too deep into the wood.

[BGCarrera32]

This thread is worthless without pics...

[notfarnow]

I've used both water-and oil based finishes, and the oil based ones seem to be stronger. Probably a water-based would be best if you want to strip it off in a year.

[Mule]

Go rent a commercial, walk behind sander. Best money you can spend. Then water based poly.

[RickM]

Here's a couple of pics showing the contrast between the two. In the top pic you can see the oxidized nail holes from the damn carpet tack strips.
I figure I'll fill with a closely matched putty. Should I use filler before laying the water based finish? Sounds like a silly question but I'm guessing the finish will influence the wood's color differently than the putty. I'll most likely have this piece replaced by a pro when permanently refinishing. I'll end up ripping the whole floor apart.

Bottom pic you can see where I stripped the molding and removed a threshold which was in poor condition. I have a nice new piece to replace with.

[azasadny]

My floors will be refinished in the next two weeks and I was quoted $1.50 per sq ft to sand and finish the floors. I have 3/4" Select Red Oak 2 1/4" planks in my new familly room and kitchen and 70 year old floors in the rest of the 1st floor. When completed, the refinisher says you won't be able to tell the old from the new, they'll match nicely. My refinisher said that most damage can be fixed and not to use putty to hide holes, he'll take care of those...

[notfarnow]

Those are going to be gorgeous floors!

When we bought our house, we were told there was just a plywood subfloot beneath the carpet. I found that odd, as the house is somewhere between 80-150 yrs old, so I checked under the carpet. Sure enough, plywood. Well during the renovations, I found a gap between 2 sheets of plywood, and saw wood underneath. Trurns out it wasn't a plywood subfloor, but 1/4" of plywood nailed over the hardwood floors. Dont ask why... I don't know. We were going to fill the holes, but in the end decided to leave them. It adds to the character, and the story, of the house.




Finding these floors was like winning the lottery, some of the boards are over 20' long. I had bought wide board pine for the whole house and was able to sell it for a profit. It's scary how close I was to laying that pine over the plywood.

[azasadny]

notfarnow,
Beautiful floor!!! I hope mine turns out that nice!