Laptop power problems...cord? battery? WTF?
 

So I've got this Toshiba laptop that I love, but the power cord started needing "fiddling" to keep good connection or it would run down the battery and turn off. So, if I positioned it certain ways or pressed it to the side it would make good connection again unless I disturbed it. It got so bad I needed to "rubber band tension" it off to one side. This lasted 2 days. Now it just won't work.

I have two lights on the front:

green= cord connected

orange= battery charging

I can get the green one lit pretty easy, but the orange one is the bastard. If I use it without the orange lit (like now) it will only work for a few minutes then say "battery power critical, will hibernate soon" then it does:(

So you ask "how are you doing this now?". Well....I couldn't get the damn orange light on so I pulled the battery and hooked up the cable. Well the green light came on and away I go.....no problems.!!! So, is my battery the problem? The cable? Both?

Sometimes with much flexing over time the core or outer wires will break inside the sheathing (think: intermitent bad ground...). I've had this problem with A/V stuff and my IBM laptop power cord.
-Jeremy

Could be cord or connection iside the box. Fiddle with it sans battery to see if you can make it mess up. If not it's the battery.

Unusual since batteries should be pass through when connected to AC but then again....

Scott

I dunno what type of battery management it has, but kinda sounds like the battery is toast causing the PS to work harder than it can.

The computer and battery are about 14 months old I'de say. After I posted last night I couldn't get back up:( Then I found a happy spot witht he computer upside down, with a rubberband on the barrel plug, hooked to a water bottle.....creating the perfect tension and it charged fully:)

I'm at work now and will go out looking for a replacement barrel plug at radio shack, etc... None of the computer places have unversals that fit. Oh well... I 'm sure it's the cord, but we'll see. Thanks.

I also have a Toshiba laptop with the same problem. I think it's the connector inside the laptop that the cord connects to. I've also seen this happen to a client's Toshiba laptop.

To fix it I need to take apart the laptop and probably solder the connector to the motherboard. Since it still works most of the time I haven't done this yet.

It'd be great if the problem is just the cord. Good luck!
-Kaefer

interestingly, I have the same problem but for different reasons. my HP took a nosedive (fortunately onto a carpeted floor from two feet) and landed on the plug. this of course bent the plug to crap, pulling the inside wires enough to break the connection occasionally. to remedy the situation I keep a small pair of channel lock pliers handy to squeeze the plug together when the connection becomes loose. only down side is forgetting the pliers are in the laptop case when going through security at the airport. ask me how I know...

A lot of laptops have this problem. No brand is immune to it.

Problem usually comes down to the connecter that the manufacturer decided to use.

Usually a heavy inflexible cord mated to a dainty plug.

If that is your issue take a run to Radio Shack and see if you can pick up a more robust connector and replace it. Not always an option due to space constraints inside the box but worth looking into.

G4 cord in white and HP cord in black. Note the cable thickness compared to the plug.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122747640.jpg

Note barrell around G4 plug that takes the stress off of the connection. HP always feels like it'll snap if not handled gingerly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122747686.jpg


Other nice thing about the G4 plug, it unscrews so you can get to the internals of the plug without having to cut through that molded plastic sleeve.

Makes fixing them easier if it comes to it.

My dell had this problem. I had to replace the motherboard to fix it!!! The motherboard had the plug built into it with no strain relief. The combination of a crappy designed plug and inflexable cord lasted about two years before I had to start pushing it to one side to get it to work. Finally one day it started smoking and I shut it off to find the problem. Now $300 later I have a good as new 3 year old (obsolete) laptop.

I also have a Toshiba 3000-s--- laptop same problem here.
get new motherboard, battery and AC adapter and now in my power manager say only 51% on pawer if the lap is on the batery dosn´t charge the best advice get a new and cheap dell or getawy and replace evry year :)

You guys probably did not need to replace the motherboard. The socket comes loose from the board. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can tack it down, then put a bit of epoxy to secure it.

HOWEVER, if it is under warranty, send it in and let them replace the board.

No, the motherboard cracked from the stress of the plug in my case. No way to fix it. I took it apart with the intention of soldering it back together but the corner of the motherboard holding the plug on fell off when I got it apart. Just a bad design in the first place, no strain relief.

I just had the same problem with an HP.

go here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-lot-Toshiba-Laptop-DC-Power-Jack-Connectors-NEW_W0QQitemZ6789796571QQcategoryZ31517QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It is an easy fix.

I fixed it!!!!

I fumbled badly taking the case apart and I should have broken something, but I didn't:)

Anyway, once I got it open enough to see the back of the board and where the solder connections were I took the plunge and hit it with the iron. All better!!!!!!!!!!! I just hit it till it went liquid and pulled away.

Thanks for the info guy,

I am proud, beer here I come:)

Interestingly my newest dell reflects a nastier design of the power plug. (longer arm means more torque at the board)

My older (i8200) has a relatively short "lever-arm" (~1.4") vs the newer (M60) sticking out at a ful 2".

Planned obsolescence? .. .Dunno; the newer one has a three year warranty, standard.

The earlier sure looks like the better design, IMO.

I'll have to check the PCBA mounting point to know for sure.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122836720.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122836738.jpg