Gas..... It isn't truly a MIG without gas. Think future proof, you don't want to have to buy twice. So, get something that will be rated at the max thickness of metal you ever plan to weld. This choice will also dictate whether or not you'll need a 220 outlet in your garage.

I have a 180amp Marquette MIG, with an 80cu.ft. tank(about 4' tall). 150 amp will do most anything you could want to do in your garage. You might even get by with a 100amp, but most 100ampere welders are set up as a flux core welder, with gas being an 'option' that requires some expensive parts.

The big difference between flux core and true MIG is slag build up. When using a flux cored wire, you don't actually see the weld that you are laying down, you see the slag building up, which needs to be chipped away to reveal the weld. With true MIG using gas, what you see is what you get.

Thanks Jack! Great advice :)

You also need different gas, and different wire for welding aluminum. Do yourself a favor, take your chain box to someone with a TIG welder, who knows what they are doing.

Tom

Hmmm.. or I could just tap it for a -10AN NPT style screw-in fitting :confused:

Merv, you could absolutely do that.

However, once you start welding you'l get hooked.

You could use straight co2 to weld steel but you'll get more splatter...messier (yet very servicable) weld. Many use a 75%-25% co2 Argon mix for a cleaner weld. Then for aluminum you can use the straight argon.

What voltage/current/phase service do you use there?

240V A/C ;)

I don't mind using a -10AN NPT fitting with a barbed end, so I can slide the oil drain hose over it. Investing in a tapping tool is certainly much cheaper than a welder, however, I'm keen to learn that skill anyway, so I can use it for other things around the house/car etc :D

All your advice/suggestions are great! Keep 'em coming :D

As suggested by others, you may want to go to a reputable welding supply shop and talk to the staff. They may have trade-ins, last year's models etc at a discounted price and a warranty. If you play it right they may help by putting a package together and showing you the basics.

If you are thinking of doing aluminum welding, check the MIG's that have a spool gun option. Aluminum wire is pretty flimsy, and can bind in the liner on it's way to the gun, not to mention changing out liners for changing to different type wire is a pain.

A spool gun can be loaded with aluminum wire, and it just basically plugs in. So going from mild steel to aluminum is quick and painless. You do still have to swap out gasses, but bottles aren't too terribly expensive. So you can have a blend gas for mild steel, and straight argon for doing aluminum.

But as mentioned above, a certified welder with a TIG will do a much better job at aluminum welding than you could ever do with a spool gun and a MIG.

I've never tried to weld aluminum, but I've been told, and have read, that it's one of the hardest metals to weld due to it's heat transfering capabilities.

I've been thinking about just getting a Henrob gas torch to do aluminum welding(brazing) with, and leave the MIG for just mild steel.

Great tips, keep 'em coming :D

Tell me, when you need a curve cut into an aluminium pipe, what do you guys use? Angle grinder, dremel tool or just the welder to cut the pipe to the desired shape?

The welding technology that can be used to cut is Oxy/acet.
MIG or TIG won't help you there. By curve do you mean notch?
If so then you're looking at one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../152391_lg.jpg

By curve, I mean, when you join a the end of a pipe onto another curved metal surface. That contraption looks interesting. What's it actually called?

Also, what would one use to create a retention lip/bead onto a pipe. An example would be, a bead for sliding a rubber hose over and clamping down onto the pipe so they don't slide off?

Merv,

It's called a Pipe or Tube Notcher. A bi-metal hole saw is attached to the bottom end of the vertical (silver) shaft. The pipe is locked horizontally (and can be moved to different angles) in the black vice contraption in the left. Available from several sources including Harbor Freight and Northern Tool.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ubenotcher.gif

http://www.toolsplus1.com/images/newnot.jpg



For pipe beading you can use a few methods. The cleanest is a roll beader. They come in electric, hydraulic and manual/crank configurations.

http://www.sdsefi.com/ic5.jpg

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/icpipebead.htm

I just bought myself a mig welder, but I have never welded before!

Does anyone know of any good "Welding for dummies" or something like that on the web?

Is the part aluminium? Mig is not the easiest to use for that, Tig is better. But it can be done.

I really don't have anything to weld yet, I just want to learn.
But if I do anything it will probably be on the car, so steel.

Good call on the 'auto-dimming helmet' , for me it was..helmet down=darkness and a mess. Now I see what I screw up.
Rika

Hands-down the best welding technique book I've ever seen is "Performance Welding" by Richard Finch. This fellow's books guided me through rebuilding Corvair engines in the 70's. Superb explainations, pictures, etc. He's still active in the SAE field, even festured one of our Corvairs in his latest air conditioning book.

Another popular welder/fabricator is Jesse James, he even quotes Finch's methods in HIS books.

Get some scrap metal (steel) and start playing. Start with thicker metals (1/8" +) and work downwards - thicker material is easier to weld than thinner material. Particularly pay attention to the effect of wire speed changes.

Here's an Olsen-esque pose with my new welder; you can see my dinky little old one off to the side.

http://www.rennlight.com/gallery/image/5000291.JPG

Take a tour at the Miller Welding website. They have a lot of educational info. Also, a very high quality product.
I recently bought a Miller 135 in 110VAC. with gas reg. and it's like a dream come true! Nice!
millerweld.com