video guys

[juanbenae]

i have an 8mm digital video camera that i use for in car movies. nothing makes my chick hotter than me coming home from a driving event and showing her the film when i get home. there in lies the rub.

my camera mount and system has been a 1 year experiment in what works best, or not in some cases. a few things ive learned and then a question.

get a mounting system that's easy to set up and break down.

tighten said mounting through out the day event, between runs is best. my mounting system is a screw deal that requires tightening often, i did not put this together until many events in. it was "why are the last three runs so choppy?".

try different plug in options when running the camera back to the TV for playback. i had always run it through an old vcr, but found that trying it through my dvd was muy bueno.

my question is prior to a track day so i want to get it right, and it has nothing to do with more runs on one tape... is the lp (long play) more opt to handle the vibration encountered in an in car set up, or is the sp (short play for those not following along) the better way to go. i have always gone sp til now and i am wondering.

TIA, and any other pointers will be considered.

[Steeve]

I don't think choosing LP over SP would have any direct impact on handling the vibration, but since the video quality on LP is reduced from SP, it's my opinion that it would indirectly make the issue worse.

[juanbenae]

bump, any other bits of advice?

[dtfastbear]

I switched over to LP a couple years ago and never looked back. Those little tapes are freakin' expensive, and there is no noticable difference in quality once you get to compressed format for the Web, which is where all of my vids end up...

Try it, you'll like it.

Dean

[IROC]

My experiments along these lines taught me a couple of things. First, vibration is your enemy. Rigidly mounting the camera is essential. I started off with an I/O Port camera mount and sold it due to the amount of vibration it allowed. I made my own bracket that mounts the camera directly to the crossbar of my roll bar and it is much better (but not nearly as adjustable).

Also, I think the main limitation with using a "home" 8mm camera is it's mass. Mounting it rigidly enough to stop the vibration is complicated by the mass of the camera. I assume that is one of the primary reasons that in-car cameras used by the big boys are so small and lightweight.

Sounds like you're enjoying some success, though. That's great. My in-car video ranges from "hey that looks great" to "uhh...I can't watch that anymore"...

Mike

[RickM]

In addition to the recommended rigid mount (important) you may want to consider a new (used) camcorder. A one generation old mini DV unit could be had for a relative bargain. Simply choose a model with electronic (Sony) or mechanical/optical image stabilization. The unit will likely be smaller than what you're using now as well. (I assume you're using Hi-8)

[juanbenae]

yes, i use the hi-8 and it is a pretty big jvc unit. i have incorporated a longer mounting screw into the camera and use a 2"x6"x1/8" piece of aluminum stock under the camera with electrical tape to cause it to fit tight at the back end of the camera. no tape on the camera, but the rigidity the aluminum lends to the mount has served well. it was a mess prior to that being implemented.

[goat]

Toby:
If your camera has a stabilzer function try it with it off and on.
Some cameras work better one way or another.
Autofocus can mess with ya.
If you have glare on the inside of the window it can focus on that point rather than in front or your car, or focus on some part of the hood..
that can make the road look shakey too.
If all else fails....
I have a camera mount from I/O Port that is top notch that you could borrow for the event.
What day are you guys going again?

[Rob Channell]

Stabilizing the camera is only part of the equation. A rigid mounting is a plus for the camera, but a minus for the tape mechanism.
Vibration can be seen in the video due to the tape vibrating as it goes over the heads. Try this experiment:

Record some smooth video with the recorder not moving. Then rewind and start playing it back. Now start shaking the recorder as if it was getting vibrations through a rigid mount on a racecar. The video will shake as well even though it was recorded smooth. I have tried this on a couple of camcorders including a mini-DV and gotten the same results.

The best idea I have heard so far came from Jon Lowe (914 guru). He hard mounted a cheap mini camera (www.supercircuits.com) and then ran the output to the input of a camcorder(make sure yours has AV inputs). The camcorder was mounted in a foam lined breadpan on the floor of the car to insulate the tape mechanism from the vibration.

This may also be one of the few times that the extended warranty may be worth the extra money.

Edit: This technique also limits the mass of the camera (thereby increasing the resonant frequency of the system??) as mentioned by IROC. He is a mechanical type and probably has a more complete explanation. Be sure and ask him about fasteners, also.

FWIW,
Rob