Any Car Detailing tips?

86 911 · 86 911's Garage

Well, I've just detailed my very first car for $$. I think it turned out real well and automotive detailing is a fun and rewarding job. IMHO it's a great way to earn a few extra bucks. Anyway, the car was a '94 Mercedes E420, and the pay was excellent. I have a few questions though:

1) When I am detailing seats and leather cleaners/conditions just don't do the job to get the dirt out of the leather pores, what do you use? I found out that a mix of stain remover and warm water and a cloth worked better than the leather cleaner. Anything better though?

2) I got 80% of the exterior scrathes out with rubbing compound, but some scrathes were imbedded too deep to get out with rubbing coumpound. Can I and what can I use to get those scratches out?

3) Is there anyway to make the cracks in leather seats more inconspicuos?

4) Is that product that removes haze from older headlights really make them look new and take away the haze?

Thanks. BTW, here is the photo of the car I just detailed:

Oh Haha · 10-03-2005, 04:52 AM

Hey Matt,
Scratches deep in the paint need to be wheeled out with compounds.
Get a good plastic cleaner, like for motorcycle helmet shields. It should help cut the haze on the headlights.
One trick I used to use is to use some rubber protectant on the wheel wells. It makes for a nice subtle look. Obviously, you need to clean them first but you get the idea.

Mule · 10-03-2005, 05:40 AM

Car Care Specialties http://www.carcareonline.com/

Wurth for the rubber
Soffner for the leather
Flitz buff-ball for the headlights
3M Polish for the paint.

Phat Ham · 10-03-2005, 05:51 AM

Look into leatherique for the leather. Never used it myself, but from all accounts I've read it works wonders. Not the cheapest stuff though.

10-03-2005, 06:03 AM

Leatherique treatment takes days to accomplish but is good stuff.

RickM · RickM's Garage

I'd urge caution with agressive cleaning techniques. Not all scratches can be removed by "buffing" out. Additionally, when it comes to using abrasives polishes on a dark colored car you may find a different end result from a gray, silver or white car.

Also, worn or faded leather dye can appear to be dirty when it is not. The only way to remedy is to strip the seat and re dye....or you could go to the expense of touching up with ColorPlus dye (or Letherique) but it wont last as long as a full strip and application. If you're serious about detailing you may want to stock a small can of black and other common interior colors.
Cracks in leather can be filled but only as part of an extensive refurbishment.

Joeaksa · 10-03-2005, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mark Wilson
Leatherique treatment takes days to accomplish but is good stuff.

Our Jag crowd raves over this stuff and its very good. As Mark says, it does take a while but can make old raggy leather return to almost new if you take the time to let it sit and work. After all, it did dry out overnight, so can take a while for the stuff to work.

Joe A

Jims5543 · 10-03-2005, 07:43 AM

Does anyone else remember reading an article in Car and Driver about 15 years ago about the "Johnny Wash"?

This guy set out to detail one car a day and only by appointment. He would go as far as removing the rims and cleaning the back side of them along with an extensive clean and detail of the wheel well while it was exposed. He also would put the car up on ramps and detail the undercarraige. Your car would get detailed for 8 hours and he charged a LOT of money for the detail. He had a waiting list because he would only do 5 cars a week and would give repeat customers preferance.

86 911 · 86 911's Garage

Thanks for the info guys. That car care site is really helpful. Also, one more question: What do I do to get the scratches and haze off of my plastic rear ragtop window?

D'STARGA · 10-03-2005, 11:39 PM

I've had good luck with the Meguires plastic cleaner and Polish. Note use only a back and forth motion. No circular polishing.

pwd72s · 10-04-2005, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jim Cesiro
Does anyone else remember reading an article in Car and Driver about 15 years ago about the "Johnny Wash"?

This guy set out to detail one car a day and only by appointment. He would go as far as removing the rims and cleaning the back side of them along with an extensive clean and detail of the wheel well while it was exposed. He also would put the car up on ramps and detail the undercarraige. Your car would get detailed for 8 hours and he charged a LOT of money for the detail. He had a waiting list because he would only do 5 cars a week and would give repeat customers preferance.

This sounds about like my car's routine cleaning...only I'm getting old. It often takes me 2-3 days to clean up the car after a long drive. I wouldn't consider doing the same to somebody else's car...for me, it's a labor of love.

Hugh R · 10-04-2005, 05:19 PM

I know there's a lot of debate on waxes, but try Autoglym. Very expensive, but very good. Used by Aston Martin and Rolls. Try the polish and the super resin which you apply after the polish. Use it only on good paint jobs, its a waste, for the price, on rough paint. I judge concours in Los Angeles and Orange county, and you can tell the difference.