My new 32
 

OK, so it's not, new.

But...wow, this fits the hand so well! John Browning knew his $hit!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130545822.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130545842.jpg

Nice little gun...Colt Model 1903...they made the basic design in 25, 32 and 380. I recently bought a 380 to shoot..

Not only fits the hand but they are flat.

The .380 next on the list

yes nice colt 1903 4th issue (commercial series) but if you are looking for a great .380 let me recommends you the best .380 I ever have Walther PPK/S .380
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130622413.jpg

Here is the Colt 1903 .32 ACP (SN 8704) that I picked up today.

The slide is missing most of the bluing. The frame has almost all of it's bluing. The slide has almost no pitting on the right side but moderate pitting on the left side. The original owner was most likely right handed.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130633570.jpg

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$365 FTF +$60 lunch at the Riverwalk by the Alamo in San Antonio.

My little pocket pistol is chambered in .32NAA
Mine is custom with wood grips and High Phosphorus Nickel plating A .32NAA which is a necked down .380 with a BARK ! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130634327.jpg

This will arrive next week. I have achieved a "Frequent buyers" discount with my FFL. But I have the forms and I'll be applying for a type III FFL, so I can have these sent to me directly, in the future.

http://nas4.atlanta.gbhinc.com/GB/03...1424735782.jpg

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http://nas4.atlanta.gbhinc.com/GB/03...1424735860.jpg

http://nas4.atlanta.gbhinc.com/GB/03...1424735704.jpg

I'm with Yellowbird RS, the PPK is a fine small caliber handgun. Superb accuracy as far as 50 yards.
When I was shooting 3" groups at 25 yards with my 45acp, I tried a friends PPK. It hit steel rams at 50 yards 5 out of 6 shots. My fault for the miss.
Reliable, high quality.
Agreed John Browning was the best that ever was. Pistols, Shotguns, Machine Guns, Automatic Rifles. We all owe him.

What's a Type III FFL? Is that the full FFL, or the curio & relic FFL? I just ordered the application for the C&R FFL.

So many great old guns I'd like to collect. As far as JMB designs, I'd like to start with a Hi-Power - the old ones with the shoulder stock holster.

Curio and Relic

High Power is on the list. I'll check back to the Pawn shop that had one and see if it is still around, and maybe they'll discount it...

Tabs, did you get the 1903 or the 1908 in .380?

There is a C&R license...which for guns that are 50 years or older...in CA you still have to receive them through a regular FFL. In NV you can get them sent to your house. But NEW guns still have to have the backkground check and be received by an FFL.

Then there is an FFL...which allows you to be a gun seller, receive and ship through the mail etc . THis license is for people who want to be in business and make a living selling guns.

Then the Class 3 License is for Machine Guns....CA will not allow anyone a permit to own one, certain Gun Dealers can have the license.. but can only sell to Law Enforcement agencies or outa state.

In NV for $200 you can get the Federal Permit and own machine guns...

I have the 25, the 32 and the 380...

Sorry, FFL type 03

Sorry, FFL type 03 C&R

I am the redundant minister of redundacy

John Moses Browning sure did know how to design a nice pistol! Most designs nowadays are based on his work.

that's the first issue Sn 1-72000 production 1903-08.
that's a high colectors example

nice 1908 did your gun has the U.S. property scrip?

Aren't the Guardians all made in stainless steel? Why the nickel plate? And does nickel "stick" well to the stainless?

How do you find the weight when carrying it? I'm thinking of changing to a Guardian in .32NAA, to replace my Keltec P-32.

I have a suspicion that the first Colt 32 pictured in this thread is a refinished gun? All the other Colts pictured are Shooter quality and not Collector quality guns.

Refinished guns generally have little collectability...this maxim is changing slightly now..and applies to guns whose prices have put them out of the reach of most buyers... so a restored gun is beocming acceptable in this case.

Also with the rise in prices it is now lucrative for people to retore collectable guns and pass them off as mint condition orginals..I can think of one well known Colt Dealer whose has been at this for years...after the gun passes through 3 or 4 hands it begins to have credibility as an orginal...one has to remember that these guns were made to be used and not collected...thus finding a mint condition one is rare...

I personally would rather buy a gun that has some wear on it thus showing age vs those safe queens that only get taken out of the safe with white gloves on.

The first one, the seller stated up front, that it was most likely re-blued. Even with that, it was fired, and was dirty (except the outside) when I bought it. It does seem very tight mechanically.

I am considering having the early one re-blued. Not to improve value, but to preserve it. Tabs, unless you have a better way to preserve it without rebluing.

It will arrive next week, pictures are from the seller. I'll inspect and let you know when I get a chance.

At this point, I do not have enough money to get "collector" grade guns. Besides. I am planning to fire them once in a while. It's like my Porsche. It's not a daily driver, but they will get used once in a while. And as with my Porsche, preservation and function are the key. I want whatever I have (except for that unknown 2 barrel monstoscity), to be functional and to not degrade.

James

Yes this is in stainless. The Keltec is lighter. The wood on the NAA grips fit my hands better that the tiny keltec and it is subjective but the polymer only guns never have the heft I like a weapon to have. I like pretty, the dull matte ss finish is very functional but this piece is more a personal statement like a nice expensive pen or watch.

I used this guy, slow but very very nice work. http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com and got this service.

High Phosphorous Electroless Nickel plating.


"high-phosphorous electroless nickel is among the most corrosion resistant gun coatings. It was applied over a highly polished surface to produce a bright nickel finish."

I have had several guns over the years in nickel and while not correct for tactial use sure looks pretty ! very very durable and will not flake or peel.

oh yea about the carry weight, not really a big deal. Simpler than a full size hip or IWB carry and 100% easier to conceal. When you NEED to carry why worry about weight ?

here is front pocket carry and a rear pocket carry rig.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130740832.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130740859.jpg

I have all four 1911, 1903 .32, 1908 .380, and the little 1908 .25.

The 03 with hydro shocks is my carry. VERY reliable guns. I have some spare parts for the 03 and 08. PM me if you need anything.

Thanks!

New Colt
 

Here ya go Red!

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I really disliked my PPK/S. I dumped it and bought a German made PP in .380. Now we're talking'. However, I traded it even this week for a collector grade, 1929 Ithaca GRADE 5 (!) 12ga. The thing belongs in a jewelry shop.

He didn't suspect a thing :-)

Red...you there? Red?

My 32 is marked US Property...

Nice collection. That is where eventually I'd like to go, but right now I'm collecting what I can afford.

On the shotgun, I sort of felt that way with the low number .32, until I met the seller. He knew _exactly_ what he had and had it priced properly. My Sig and one Kelt-tec, on the other hand, was definitely a deal.

Hey Tabs, where is it marked?

Red ..I bought all of those on the cheap. That's why I didn't feel too bad about refinishing them. The one in the third one down is all original and it's nickle plated at the factory. It also had factory genuine pearl grips. It's also a 1908, .380. The rest are brushed chrome so they aren't too pimpy. The good thing about plating is that it gets super cleaned, gone through, and after it's done it's hard, so it lives forever.

Tabs...talk to me about William Moore and sons shotguns.

I'm going to try my hand at striping, polishing and nickle plating the .25. Of course, if it looks too good in person, I may end up buy another to do this...

James

Use birchwood caseys bluing and rust remover with fine BRONZE wool. To get the finish off. Some may tell you to use naval jelly but don't, it etches the metal pretty deep. DO NOT use any powered wire wheels or buffers...you will be sorry. Brownells sells a great cold blue called "oxpho..something " that is the best cold blue I have ever used. My gunsmith turned me on to it and it is as close to hot blue I have ever seen. I have done about 3 shotgun barrels with it and it's absolutley the best. The guy that did my plating was accurate plating and weaponry in safety harbor fl. Do a web search for his site if you like. About 2 bills for strip, buff, and plate.

I have a guy here in Texas for plating. He's doing my slides for my concealed carry pistols. I don't care about the look, only the rust prevention.