Got a Workbench?
 

Help guys! In need of a new workbench. I want to build one but need some ideas. Pics please...

I've built two. No pics, they're both buried under crap. I just measured the available space, decided how high the work surface should be, and banged them together from 1" x 6"s (work surface and backsplash), 1" x 4"s (under the work surface, and to brace the legs), and 2" x 4"s (legs), using drywall screws (cheap and strong enough). Tip - make the work surface high, higher than the typical kitchen counter, so that you don't get a backache.

Good tip.

Somewhere between counter top and bar height. Then get yourself a barstool to sit on while you work.

My next workbench will have a welded stainless steel top. I'm getting tired of oil and solvent soaked particle board.

We get a catalog here at work from C&H www.chdist.com and they have just about everything you might need from tops to 50 different kind of legs to drawer units.

When I built mine, I put Masonite on the top. Then when it gets saturated with oil and stuff you just have to replace the Masonite, not the 2 x 4's under it. It's easier that way.

I'm going to be building workbenches in the next couple of months. I always wanted to use SS sheets, but a neighbor gave me some galvanised sheets... any reason why I souldn't use them, other than the bling bling factor?

My workbenches are just 2 x 4 frames with 3/4" plywood tops. They work well, cheap to build, and will last about 10 years with the way I use them.

I'll try to get you a pic tonight of my bench.

Here are the features that I think are important.

1. Correct height so you don't have to bend over.
2. Secure it to the wall so it doesn't move.
3. Make the top as heavy and thick as you can.
4. Put a shelf under it for more storage.
5. Add a backsplash so little parts do not roll off the back.

I used a leftover fire rated door from a construction project - helps to be in the business. Fire rated doors are filled with a fire retardant substance that makes them solid and very heavy. I can pound on my bench and it doesn't move. I made the frame out of 2x4's.

Any ergonomic rules of thumb? I think I read somewhere it should be as high as your elbows or something...

Edit--found this:

Precision Work - Workbench height should be above elbow height.

Light Work - Workbench height should be just below elbow height.

Heavy Work - Workbench should be 4-6 inches below elbow height.

Here's the one I built in my shop.

A couple problems with it. One, it's too high. You see, I used a 2x6 as the ledger on the back, and I'd scored a good bag of crack that day, and after marking where the top of the bench was going to be - and not taking the 7/8" top into consideration - I ended up making that the bottom. D'oh! I also should have made it 3' deep instead of 2'; you'll see what I mean in the pix. The most useful area is a 4' deep tongue.

It's covered with .060 stainless, and the copper section is where I do welding, so the weld spatter doesn't stick to the bench.

I also made a portable one, 4'x5', which is very handy for unwieldly projects like 911 cab hardtops :) On the portable one, I made a 'power strip' with a 4-plex electrical box, self-grounding outlets and an appliance cord, so I have power right there at the bench and only have to run one extension cord to it.

Then, outside the shop, I have another metal-covered 3'x8' bench, with air and power routed from inside the shop.

More pix @ http://rennlight.com/shop

http://www.rennlight.com/shop/image/2100900b.JPG
http://www.rennlight.com/shop/image/2100900c.JPG

http://www.rennlight.com/gallery/image/5000227.JPG

http://www.rennlight.com/gallery/image/5000224a.JPG

One more thing: allow a few inches of knee space if you have lower shelves. If the shelves stick out as far as the top, you'll be hunched over just a bit working standing up, and you won't be able to get a stool close enough.

Mine is a 30x72" laminated maple top on a steel frame from Mcmaster.com Can build whatever you want from their parts.

This is my first attempt at a workbench. When we had the house built we knew we'd upgrade the counters to marble. I asked the workers to save this laminate for me. It cleans up really nice with some 409 or simple green. I really need to build a shelf underneath, I haven't done it yet.

Definitely attach the thing to the wall. I can beat the hell out of parts in that vice and it won't budge. I really need a plug in the middle of the bench as well as on the side. I had paper towels under the lip, but the holder broke and I haven't replaced it. It worked well when it was there.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1135266233.jpg

countertops and cabinets....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1135267121.jpg
Damn, I'm a slob.

Thom - that vice looks like it's got a few stories to tell...:) No workbench is complete without one.

I used what I had around; 2x6 for the top frame and legs, 2x4 for the bottom shelf with a couple extra legs midway in case of heavy objects.
For the top and lower shelf I used particle board which I saturated with all the black spray paint I had laying around; not the "best" material for the worksurface, but cheap and easy to replace.
We recently replaced the range in the kitchen, so I took the lower drawer and hardware from the old one before it went to the dump and fastened it to the workbench for a place to store all the abrasives I had floating around.

I did the same thing. Just countersink and screw the masonite down to the work bench. I get the masonite that is smooth on both sides so when it gets dirty I can just flip it over.

I don't have any pictures handy, but my 3 car garage is shaped like a reverse L. Two spots in front and then one in the back, which works great as I store the Mustang in the thrid spot.

I followed the whole wall along the back of the 2 car part, and down the side of the third stall. I used 4x4 posts for the corners, and then frame it with 2x4's, and cover it with 3/4 plywood. If the stains are too bad, I just either sand down the plywood, or have replaced it. It also has a shelf under the top with enough room for me to put my hockey bag on the floor under everything during the summer, and the mower during the winter. I'll try and snap some pictures tonight.

Bill

I used two of the kits the HD sells and joined them. it's perfect and total cost was like $50. each

I'll take some pictures later.

I used 4x4 posts and 3/4 plywood. Haven't built the lower shelves yet (hey, its only been seven years).

What I like best about mine is it's eighteen feet long!

Most counters are about 24". A sheet of plywood ripped in half gets you sixteen feet. Another thing I have seen is a 36" top, and using the other 12" rip as a shelf about 16 inches above the work surface. Thast adds a tremendous amount of storage for small stuff, and leaves a 24" working surface.