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 BMW E34 alignment question - camber anyone know if the E34 has camber adjustments?  Or is it fixed like the E30?  As far as I can tell, it's fixed - no adjustments anywhere.. Put new springs on, and need to figure out if I should realign immediately or later (new wheels coming next week) - can't get into my favorite shop till then.. rjp | 
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 Pretty sure it's fixed, and only toe is adjustable.  I know there's not anything on the rear that's adjustable. | 
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 Re: BMW E34 alignment question - camber Quote: 
 I lowered my e28 with factory M-Technics springs, about 1.25 inches, and the camber is fine, more like it was originally designed to be. I have H & R lowering springs on the way for my E30, we'll see how that is tolerated, 1.4 in front and 0.4 in back with new Bilsteins which will reduce the drop a touch. EDIT: Does Pelican sell adjustable camber devices? | 
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 They sell Bilsteins, not sure what kind of springs they carry. | 
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 cool, thanks y'all.    We swapped to Eibachs and new struts. Cakewalk - didn't disturb anything! Car drives perfect afer the swap. 1/2 tempted to say heck with the alignment, but that's not very PC of me.... rjp | 
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 I'm pretty sure the E34 is set up that way too. | 
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 I never understood that - I've seen a few DIY's saying you "have to loosen the lower control arm" to give the strut assembly enough clearance out " It made it look like a PITA frankly. Wasn't the case with this car. Drop the front calipers, rotors, ABS / wear sensors, sway bar link, 3 x 17MM bolts below, 3x 10MM(?) on top then slam your foot on the lower control arm and it falls out of the car. Cake, I tell you. No dropping lower control arms or any of that nonsense.. Doing it again, I could have the whole car ripped and back together again in under 4 hours. rjp | 
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 Randy, I put Bavarian Auto's lowering springs and Bilstien sports on my  E-36 a few years.  The front actually sat a little too low and the negative camber was extreme (-2.5 degs).  I ended up making a 3/4" thick, round aluminum spacer disk to sit between the top of the strut and the inner mount surface.  I c'bored 3 holes to attach the strut to spacer with the original nuts, then I installed in the car, lowered it down in approximate position then moved it to a spot that gave me the proper amount of camber.  Next I carefully drilled and tapped three new holes into the aluminum spacer and installed the new bolts from above.  This got me close to where I wanted to be and a year later I slotted the holes in the shock tower to get even less negative camber to aid in tire life for the wifey (I think I am now at about neg .5 degrees). | 
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 Essentially Tim, you just saved a bunch of money and made your own camber plates.  Good job. | 
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 Yeah, those lowering springs from Bav auto drop the front quite a bit more than the rear and -2.5 deg camber is a little more than wifey needed! :)  My tire wear is pretty decent now the rear still wears slightly more on the inside (I adjusted the rear camber to the limit and I still was at -1 deg, but with slight toe-in back there, the wear is pretty decent now). I considered fabbing new adjustable control arms out of 4130 aircraft tubing, but I am satisfied with it now. The car still handles great and wifey just got an A6 turbo to drive, so the Bimmer is now my daily driver (260,000 miles an runs/drives perfect!). | 
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 Aren't BMWs notorious for camber wear anyway? | 
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 That's pretty slick Tim.  I'll have to remember that with the Bav auto springs.  And yes, large BMW cars wit' sport pkg are notorious for excessive camber settings - My E39 sport has custom settings for toe and much less camber in the back to ease the tire wear. The shop that set it up says that in factory form, it'll blow thru rear tires less than 20K a pass. No thanks... rjp | 
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 Quote: 
 It's handling and speed is about the same as the sedan though. It's a bit heavier but that weight, from the glass, is rearward and makes the car more balanced. | 
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