Air Compressor Decision

[CarreraDan]

Guys,
I have finally narrowed my air compressor search down to two and need some advice. Option one is a Kobalt 60 gal oil lubed, 3.5 running (7.0 peak) HP, 13.3 SCFM @90 and 15.0 @40, it is also full cast iron pump (twin cylinder), and bearings are rated for 12,000 hours. Price is $499 without any regulator (add $45), see this link http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=134819-48540-K7060HFV&lpage=none

Option #2 is at Tractor Supply Company. It is a Farmhand (made by Campbell Hausfeld) 60 gal, oil lubed, 4.0 running HP (7.5 peak), 13.5 SCFM @90psi and 16.0 @40, cast iron pump with 3 cylinders, and bearings are rated for 7,500 hours. Price is $599 which includes a air regulator. Sorry no link.

I am leaning towards the one at TSC b/c the air line hook ups built in to the front of the compressor and it is rated higher in SCFM. I know both of these are overkill for what I will be using them for I just don't want to buy a smaller compressor and then in 5 yrs have to buy a bigger one, when I can just get it now. Later, when I have a shop area this will be my compressor. Which one would you all choose? Anyone know who makes Kobalt's compressor's? The people at Lowe's were clueless as always and it wasn't on a metal tag like the ones at Home Depot.
I looked at Sear's and theirs had aluminum cylinder's which I was told to stay away from b/c of the duty cycle.

[fastpat]

Those aren't bad, but I'd recommend you get a system that has a max tank pressure of at least 150 psi, and 175 psi would be better. I had a 135 psi unit, and it didn't take long for it to drop to 90 psi and turn the pump back on. Further, if you use a high consumption air tool like a die grinder, you'll be surprised at how much air you need, much more than you expect. I'd recommend something more like this Sears unit, but not necessarily a Sears brand. Tractor Supply has them I think.

The fact that it was one of those oilless compressors is the reason I left it behind for the owner of the house we sold in CA, extremely noisy.

I now have an Sears oil bath compressor, with a 20 gallon tank, that's moveable until I build my garage, then I'll buy a large 80-100 gallon, 175 psi compressor, and relegate the small one to use where I need a portable unit.

Here's some pics of how I installed my compressor in CA. I set it up with a manifold to have both oiled air for tools, and dry air to pump up tires. Worked pretty well.


The hose in this pic is the air into the manifold, with dry air on the right and oiled air to the left of the oiler.

[jhc]

If you want dry air from your compressor you probably need an air line drier.

[DUK]

Dan, I've been really happy with my Kobalt. Had two guys at the shop steer me away from the Campbell-Hausfeld. Both had motor issues. Just my .02 Duke

[CarreraDan]

Damn Pat, that is a monster in that link. I am limited to 60 gal b/c of lack of space. The saying "twenty pounds of sh%t in a 10 pound sack" refers nicely to our garage. An outside "house" for the compressor is against the neighborhood Covent's, so that won't work and the neighbors are already going to ***** about noise. The one at TSC had two 1/4" in front and one 3/8" coupler on the side. The Kobalt is the one Duke has pictured. I just don't think I would ever need an 80 gal. The 3/8 coupler on the side would be were I would put a drier later on when I get my own garage for my toys.

What about the oiler, do you have to have one? Like I said the people at Lowe's and HD are useless (my old boss fired all the good people that knew what they were talking about). One told me to just buy the one on special (25 gal oilless with a bunch of cheap air tools).

[masraum]

Originally posted by CarreraDan
What about the oiler, do you have to have one?

Nope, but most tools need to be oiled regularly (instructions usually say w/each use), so having an automatic oiler is great. It's a pain to pour oil in that little hole.

[928ram]

Of the 2 that you mention, I'd be inclined to go witht he Kobalt for the higher duty cycle as well as the fact that C-H is generally a "cheap" tool.
The pump on that Kobalt looks like the same unit BelAire's use; which is a pretty well-respected brand and may be the actual MFG of that entire unit (Kobalt is Lowe's house brand).
I'll have to agree with Pat that a higher PSI unit is well worth the extra $$'s if it fits the buget and future (or present) needs; You can find 2-cyl, 2-stage units on the 60-gal tank footprint for a couple hundred more $$s.

Check the ratings carefully while you shop; air compressors have brought out the worst case od scum-bag marketing in the tool world. The reason they are now rated "peak" and "running" HP is due to class-action lawsuits against misleading the consumer. The same is going around with the CFM rating now; the rating may be "displaced" CFM which is derived mathematically based on an impossible 100 percent V-E of the pump, or, "delivered" CFM, which is what the unit's true capabilities are. IF you can confirm delivered CFM; that's the spec you really want to compare, but at the very least be sure you are comparing apples to apples.

Aluminum pumps AFAIK are all MFG'd by DeVilbiss, and have iron cylinder liners. They wear the same as the iron pumps, but tend to cool better.

[CarreraDan]

This is why I love Pelican and would gladly pay to read and use the forums. Great info guys. Now leaning back to the Kobalt for now . Duke any way I could see a picture of how you mounted the regulator? So no one is impressed with the 3 cylinder pump on the Farmhand or is the fact it is make by Campbell Hausfeld killing the deal for you all.

[fastpat]

Originally posted by CarreraDan
This is why I love Pelican and would gladly pay to read and use the forums. Great info guys. Now leaning back to the Kobalt for now . Duke any way I could see a picture of how you mounted the regulator? So no one is impressed with the 3 cylinder pump on the Farmhand or is the fact it is make by Campbell Hausfeld killing the deal for you all.

I think the 60 gallon Kobalt is a good unit, the same footprint as my old setup in CA, you could do the manifold set up for your machine once you get it. I went with a 220 volt compressor because the motors are wired better in my opinion, an draw fewer amps when starting up against head pressure.

For example, the small unit I now have is a 110 volt unit, and it will trip the circuit breaker on a standard wall outlet, which is 15 amps. I have to run an extension cord out from the kitchen, through what used to be the garage (converted into a room by the PO), and to the compressor to avoid that since most kitchen circuits are on 20 amp breakers (and 12ga. wire).

Some of these compressor allow you to wire either 220 or 110, and if you're doing it semi-permanently, then I'd do the 220 install. You'd need space in the breaker box for two more circuit breakers, though. Also, unless you already have wiring to the compressor, you'll need to run it, I did the wiring in conduit so I didn't have to run it in the wall.

[turbo6bar]

I don't think you can go wrong with either compressor. At that price point, the motors are probably sourced from China (ain't no Baldor, for sure). Cast iron is good. Oil bath is good.

For the total duty cycle demanded by a homeowner, you'll never reach 7500 hours, much less 12000 hours.

[turbo6bar]

Oh, and yes on 220. I doubt you can even get these monsters in 110.

[widebody911]

Size matters - go a little bigger, you'll grow into it. I need to upgrade mine some time in the near future, my current compressor is a 5hp 60g jobbie, and it's getting quite a workout.

Here's how I did my setup. My compressor lives outside in a little purpose-build enclosure, and the plumbing runs underground to the shop. Each station has both fitting sizes, and I have two reels in the shop, and another reel and a pair of fittings outside the shop.

[CarreraDan]

Yeah, they are both 220V. Thom, I will most likely do an enclosure for the compressor when I build a 3-4 car garage with a shop area--it just won't be here, detached garages are not allowed. Our pool pump is 220V, the box is on the garage wall but it only has one open (unused) slot. I am assuming another box will have to be installed b/c you need 2. I will let someone who knows what they are doing tackle that project. Thanks again guys and I will post pictures when this all comes together.

I still have to rearrange the garage to make this all fit. Once the radial arm saw goes away (pawn shop, someone buys it) I can move everything to make this work. The boat just eats up a tremendous amount of the garage and no I am not moving it outside--it's not allowed either.

[fastpat]

Originally posted by CarreraDan
Yeah, they are both 220V. Thom, I will most likely do an enclosure for the compressor when I build a 3-4 car garage with a shop area--it just won't be here, detached garages are not allowed. Our pool pump is 220V, the box is on the garage wall but it only has one open (unused) slot. I am assuming another box will have to be installed b/c you need 2. I will let someone who knows what they are doing tackle that project. Thanks again guys and I will post pictures when this all comes together.

I still have to rearrange the garage to make this all fit. Once the radial arm saw goes away (pawn shop, someone buys it) I can move everything to make this work. The boat just eats up a tremendous amount of the garage and no I am not moving it outside--it's not allowed either.

Hey, Dan, I PM'd you on this project.

[RickM]

FWIW, CH makes different grades of compressors. Their Iron Force series (or something like that) is a pretty decent machine.

Also, I've never heard of Duty Cycle being determined by the cylinder material. If going for a cast iron cylinder type unit make sure it's solid cast iron and not sleeved....or another material.

Unfortunately the motors can vary in quality and getting info can be tough. Look at the amp consumption on the motor. If two motors are rated at the same HP then the one with the higher AMP rating is likely closer to the claim. Does the motor have solid copper windings? Bushings or bearings?

Other features to look for:

- Lower running compressor. The lower the rpm requirement the better. (noise and heat)

- Pressure unloder- restarts are easier on the motor, starter and electrical system.

- Look for ceramic or SS disc valves as opposed to "reed' valves

[greglepore]

Don't get an oiler if you ever plan on doing paint work.

[CarreraDan]

Good news and bad news on this subject.

The good news is that I talked to the tool vendor at Lowe's today (same one we had at Home Depot) and the Kobalts are made for Lowe's by ABAC American who make Bel Aire, etc. Also, if you have any problems during the warranty period they will pay to get yours picked up and a new unit sent out--I don't know if I believe this 100%, I would think they would make small repairs if needed. I think this is one of the best units in my price range (around $500 to $600).

The bad news is I have some other financial obligations to take care of first which are more important in the grand scheme of things. So, my new toy (I mean tool) will have to wait until the end of July. If Lowe's has a sale or does any coupons in the mean time I will go ahead and get it. I just don't want to have a mountain of credit card debt to pay off b/c I had to have this now. I already know this will end up being at least a $1000+ purchase once I am done with buying accessories. So I am going to be smart and sensible on this and wait 2-3 months. Thank you all again for your wonderful advice. As for painting Greg, I will be safe if I have a dedicated "dry line" correct? Much like Pat and Thom posted, oil on one side and filtered, dry on the other. Pat, thanks again for the offer.

[Dingo Joe]

goto Lowes.com look for a moving or relocation coupon worth 10%...

[rfuerst911sc]

I purchased a small oiler that I put quick disconnect fittings on both ends. When I use a air tool I snap the oiler on the end of the airline and then snap that onto the tool, that way the oil goes from the oiler directly into the tool and never touches the feed line. When doing spray paint or just blowing air for cleaning I snap off the oiler, the best of both worlds in my opinion. If I remember correctly I purchased the oiler for less than $20.00 from Sears or Harbor Freight. It holds enough oil to go for months between refills for the average DIYer.

[M.D. Holloway]

How about this one (ran a case study on it last year) - The 150hp Ingersol Rand SSR 1846-479. Nicely equipped, finished out with all the appointments and can produce more CFM than the Democratic National Committee!