Jay is right on the money about the fuel filters. I manage the Engineering Lab at Racor and we have seen and tested most of the knock-off fuel filters out there. There is a differents, a big differents, none of the knock-offs have anything close to the efficiency of the OEM filters, so don’t even go there. Like many have said, with diesels its all about clean fuel and oil.

Speeder great job!!

Eric

Thanks again, Eric!

It is just too tempting to buy much cheaper filters for a lot of people because the dealer price is really high for an OEM, but it is the wrong place to economize.

Legion, I hope that you are right about the DIT V-6. Smaller DIT (or TDI) engines are a much more logical solution to powering small trucks than gasoline ones. TDI/electric hybrids make even more sense. Then all we need to do is crank up the domestic bio-diesel industry and presto!, we've got a bunch of good-smellin' big rigs and pick-ups on our roads. It would reduce worldwide oil consumption significantly, we are the biggest customer.

So Eric, (and Jay), any ideas how so much dust got in my fuel? It could have been over the life of the truck. I am going to drop the tank and have it cleaned out, it's plastic so I'm hoping that it cleans up beautifully. From the pic I posted, I guess that the dust did not make it into the injectors, (it's on the outside of the filter/underneath), but it did completely plug up the H2o drain which is not good. It's clean as new now. :cool:

You would be amazed at what some filters / housings look like out there, yours does not look too bad. It looks like a lot of dust in there, actually looks like the test dust we use here. Dust like that is pretty common, particularly in fuel systems in the west, dry conditions lots of airborne dust. You say the truck came from Utah, was it used in rural areas, lots of dirt roads, a farm truck? Diesel fuel is a basically a dirt magnet, fueling nozzles are the most common source of transfer, if the vehicle was used on a farm odds are pretty good they were refueling from a outdoors bulk tank, lots of dust there. A couple thing to keep in mind about diesel, dirt or dust usually is not the cause of a plugged filter, dust will usually cake up on the filter actually improving the efficiency, it is not such a bad thing if the proper filtration is used. Seeing dust in the bottom of the housing is not necessarily bad either, it means the filter is working. The thing that kills filters are asphaltines, yes like asphalt, this is the stuff that turns filters black, it basically builds up on the filter media like wax clogging the pores and choking the filter. One more thing we get a lot of, complaints of short filter life, well if the filter plugs up quick its doing its job and saving your injectors, short life is indicative of poor fuel quality, high ashaltine content, water, algae or other contaminants, my favorite is the folks blending unfiltered used motor oil in high percentages and wondering why there filters plug up.

OK, I will shut up now.

Eric

Eric, I'm sure I've met you before, as I've been in Modesto several times. How's your co-worker doing who likes do do burn-outs in his 3.2L early car with dry-rotted tires? :D Does Cheroot's (sp?) still have that cute bartender?

Legion, sorry, can't comment about anything in the future.

I understand. Please do comment one way or the other when you can. Thanks!

Great thread. The only thing I can add is that using Rotella T synth made a world of difference during cold weather starting and operation Vs regular T in my 7.3

Since we are on diesel talk (?) I am looking at mods for towing improvements. I don't need or want the racer hype. I have a covette killing foreign car for that... ;)

Any experiences +/-
dave
01 F350 cc srw long box

Dave, First thing you need if you are towing significant weight is a better trans cooler and gauges. I have a new 6.0 cooler in the box, that's the biggest factory cooler and drops trans temps a TON. The only reason I might not use it is because it is so huge that it is overkill for me and the V-10 cooler is the 2nd biggest one and does not block off as much of the A/C condensor/IC/radiator. There is some debate over on the PS forums as to which one is best and optimum trans temps, etc.. Some guys think that the 6.0 cooler on an early trans drops temps *below* optimal range when not towing.

A conservative chip from a reputable tuner, like DP, plus a better intake will make it tow like a dream I hear, but gauges are an absolute must w/ any mods.

Thanks Dennis. I need to get back and check the diesel bbs's again. I have been too busy with race bikes and trailer/rv issues to keep up. The 911 is taking a spot on the bench for a while too. :(

The 6.0 cooler sounds interesting. $$$? and I feel my transmission is "soft". Any thoughts on things like the banks trans comander or other tuners that let you "stiffen"/raise lockup pressures? We are not very heavy now with a 24' enclosed, but I can see a 40'+ gooseneck in the near future.

Dave, I have not yet familiarised myself w/ the trans tuner deals, still getting up to speed on engine mods. :)

I am pretty sure that the engine chips or re-flashes also alter the auto trans shift points and possibly "stiffen them up", is that what you're referring to? I plan on going w/ the DP Tuner 80HP economy/tow re-flash, I am going to research it further though and find out about the trans. Everything, including the auto trans, is computer controlled so it is pretty easy to change. There is also a big aftermarket for really expensive TQs and custom trans rebuilds and valve bodies, etc...

Apparently the 4R100 auto trans, ('99-'04), is not the strong link in the chain of the drivetrain and rather than go w/ a regular rebuild, many owners spend ~$4k for a BTS rebuild. BTS is a trans shop in Arkansas. Here is their link: http://www.brianstruckshop.com/ This kind of info is slightly disheartening to me because I think that for the price of these trucks, all of the stock components should be up to the job. Of course, some owners ask even more from them than what they are designed for. BTS also sells a custom valve body if not mistaken.

I've not heard great things about some Banks products, it seems like they have the best marketing but experience in the Porsche world tells us that there is not always a correlation to quality w/ that. Just really do your homework, I guess. :cool:

Also if Dave wants to have a little more positive shifting, he could try the Sonnax line pressure modulator & the Tricumulator springs. The kit costs $50 from any of the advertisers/providers on the diesel websites. You do have to install it yourself. I have the kit & that's another thing I will do when I install the cooler, filter, & change the fluid.

Here's a cool thing that I haven't seen on other engines, the production date.

"Born in the USA".... 7 years ago yesterday. Where has the time gone? Sigh....... :cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148199587.jpg

Torque, you say? ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148199716.jpg

Nice write up.

Just for future ref. you can get used 5.9 Cummins for $3k and new ones for $6.5 for when your Powertoak blows up again:D

Just giving you some friendly *****.

But I would of put a Cummins in it. I bought my *****box Dodge for the Cummins. If I were to do it over again I would buy a Ford and put a Cummins in.

:cool: pics. I just bought a toyota diesel 4wd pickup. Its an 84 though...

A "Fummins" would be a great truck. Are Cummins not temperamental at all? Bulletproof? I would consider buying a Dodge just for that, although they are generally #3 on my list otherwise. I wonder how much the rest of the conversion would cost(?)

Just for reference, I have spent less than $3k out of pocket on this project, but mucho hours, of course.

One day a couple months ago when it was raining and I couldn't work, (painting a house), I was bored so I went down to the local auto mall and drove all 3 new '06 diesel PU trucks, all loaded 4x4 crew cabs to make it as fair as possible. All 3 drove really great, (though the Dodge was geared weird and felt wrong in traffic), the Ford won the "niceness" battle slightly, and the Chevy drove the best stock, hands down. It was just stupid fast, w/ no chip or *nothing*. Unbelievable transmission, the 6-speed Alison auto.

The salesman @ the Dodge dealer admitted that he would like to have a Ford w/ the Dodge(Cummins) engine and the Chevy(Alison) transmission. I guess everyone says that. :D

I don't know a lot about the Duramax, but it was a bullet.

Thanks for the nice thread!

I bought my F-350 new in 2001. Will be paid off this October!!
70k miles on the clock with only minor problems ( oil leaks )

Mileage has actually improved as it breaks in.
18 MPG sounds just about right.

I purchased the lifetime oil and filter service at the dealer for $600.
The single service for 16 qts plus filter and fluid top off is around $100 each time.

I get this done every 3k miles.

Good work truck/ tow rig.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148234224.jpg



KT

actually you can buy a brand new Ford with Cummins power ;)

The 450/550/650 can be ordered with Cummins power, at least according to the dieselstop gurus

The Dodge with Cummins is geared poorly. My friend has a 2004 Dodge, we both tow similar trailers to the track.

My Ford gets better mileage than his Dodge, pulls more strongly (going up the grades on Rt 17 the Ford pulls away from him like he is dragging an anchor). Whenever I drive his truck it seems like its always in the wrong gear.

Not bashing, just real life observations

I bought my 92 Dodge new. From day one I hated that truck except the motor. The truck was designed in the 70's and they didn't change the sucky design for 20+ years. It rode like *****. It had the worst seats I have ever sat in, and it didn't stop. The only vehicle that stopped more dangerously than my Dodge was my 70 Chevy pickup. That stopped but it would go off the road in the process. The Dodge with the lousy ABS brakes didn't stop at all. I finally cut the rear frame off, extended it and welded on a rear frame section from an 88 F450. I put in hydro boosted brakes and defeated the ABS. I also installed some Caddy seats. So now I have a nice truck. The Getrag tranny does have a large gap between 2nd and 3rd but with the fuel turned up it isn't really noticable.

You're my kind of guy, Dean. You don't take crap engineering laying down. :D

Hey, why don't you give me one of those Jettas? What do you need two for? ;)

I usually take it bending over. And I am starting to like it.:D

I can't give you one of my Jettas now. The wifey just got hit in hers and she is pissed that I haven't fixed it yet. So she is driving mine now. Otherwise I would give it to youSmileWavy