Need tips- Primer>paint>Buff
 

I would really apreciate some knowledgeable painters out there to share some tips..... I am getting ready to prep my car to be painted , what is the best process?

I am under the impression that it goes like this ( info from local guy I know)

1- prep metal 80- 240G sand paper
2-use dirt/grease remover
3-Zinc chromate primer ( I was told to just put a super light coat)
4- scratch filler primer ( 3 coats)
5-sand 400G sand paper ( say's 600G is not needed)
6-dirt/grease remover again (with cheese cloth)
7- Ready for paint


How come it is not better to use only zinc primer?

The car is gemini blue ( looks like sky blue) what is the best color primer

Thanks ...apreciate all responses

I think you have some things out of order on your list


degrease/clean should be #1, this way your not sanding oils/greases/silicones into the existing substrate

also 80 grit is way to rough unless your going to bare metal.

The zinc would be good if going to bare metal, otherwise seal the car using a 2K epoxy sealer

the last car I painted I followed these steps

1: clean/degrease
2: sand (320-400)
3: Seal (epoxy sealer)
4: bodywork/surfacer
5: prime
6: block primer
7: cc/bc
8: cut and buff

depending on how intense you want the blue will dictate which color primer to use.

light= less intense
dark= more

Unless you want to see the sanding scratches telegraph through your paint you have to use finer grit sanding media like wet block with 1500/2000.

TimT said it all. I think anything finer than 600 for top coat is a waste of elbow grease. I would save grit like that for final sanding of the clear coat before buffing.

Thanks alot guys... I have a bunch more questions also I am not totaly
familiar with the lingo...Thanks again


[QUOTE]Originally posted by TimT
degrease/clean should be #1, this way your not sanding oils/greases/silicones into the existing substrate

I am going to bare metal so did not clean it ..I actually used 40G to cut all the layers of paint+filler off then once I get close to metal I jump to 80G quickly just to finish off then 180 ect...


The zinc would be good if going to bare metal, otherwise seal the car using a 2K epoxy sealer

I am going to bare matal... Is zinc the best for that and what is the process for zinc primer ? how many coats?

Would I use a 2k epoxy sealer over that? by the way...what is a 2k epoxy sealer?




5: prime What is the difference between primer and block primer?
6: block primer
7: cc/bc what does CC/BC mean?
8: cut and buff

I just painted my e30 the oldest school way imaginable.

1. washed, cleaned, degreased.
2. 220 the existing paint.
3. No primer unless you need filler. In my experience new paint sticks to old paint better than primer.
4. Shot the paint (laquer w/ 1:8 thinner ratio)
5. Wet sand 600
6. Shoot another coat
7. Wet sand 600
8. Shoot another coat
8. Wet sand 1000
9. High speed buff.

Keep in mind I'm painting a track car. I would never use laquer on a show/street car. But, I was shocked how well it came out considering I did little prep work.

Zinc is good for its corrosison resistance. Then you can seal over that. 2k is slang for "2 part" or 2 pack

5: prime What is the difference between primer and block primer?

There are different primers. Primer/Surfacer, which can build thickness, which you then "block" with sandpaper. Then there are primers that are non-filling

: cc/bc what does CC/BC mean?

bc/cc is Base coat/Clear coat a two part finishing system. You apply the base (color) which is a matte or flat finish. Then you apply the clear which brings out the shine. Most finish systems are bc/cc