I don't know if this will help but it's worth sharing.
The wear characteristics of oil are exposed through what's called a four ball test.

http://www.zag.si/~jank/public/bmw/oil_bible.pdf


"FOUR BALL TESTING
Don't forget about the Four Ball Testing, though. Even though this information is sparse, notice that in
the cases where a Four Ball Wear Scar comparison is possible, oils which have higher flashpoints and
possibly even higher viscosity indexes sometimes show more wear on the Four Ball <i>(This may explain the issue with some of the newer oils, including some synthetics - RM)</i>...."


Then......
"You might get somewhat discouraged by the above statements because they seem to indicate that
there is no way to be sure that you've found the best oil, even if you think the oil has the best numbers.
To some extent you are right.
However, keep in mind that the numbers below make it clear that synthetic oils are, by and large, far
superior to petroleum oils. So, by choosing any of the synthetics listed below, you'll be purchasing
enhanced protection for your vehicle.
In addition, to help out a little, in the electronic version of The Motor Oil Bible, I have put together two
different listings of motor oil comparisons. The same oils are listed, the order is simply different. One
lists the oils alphabetically, the same way as you will find in this printed version. However, there is a
second listing, which ranks the oils based upon a quality algorithm that I've set up.
Basically, I've used the viscosity index, pour point, flash point, high temperature/high shear and TBN
values for oils as the variables within the ranking algorithm. If these numbers are all provided and are
all good, the oil will rank high. The more of these values that are not provided or are poor, the lower the
ranking the oil will receive."

On page 151 of the PDF I've linked to above you can compare oil characteristics.

Great resource. Thanks. Wow, who knew there was so much about oil. I guess Lube knows however.

Torqued the head and dialed in the cams today. Everything turns smoothly. I'm going to go and buy an electric dipstick so that when I start it first time, it will have expanded the bearing clearances and bit and will turn over easier. It turns, but with seven main and six rod bearings at 0.00125" to 0.00150" over a length of three feet, and six pistons, its tight even without the plugs in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169944432.jpg

Keep 'em coming, Hugh.

I'm really enjoying following this thread.

Thanks for posting. jack

Its all buttoned up and now I have to attach the trannie, put in new spark plugs (hey, its a complete rebuild, I might as well spring for new plugs:p ). The gauge you can see on the back side of the intake manifold is temporary. I was advised by someone knowledgable that with a tight main bearing rebuild its very possible to jam the 100 psi oil pressure gauge on startup. They make a 160 psi gauge for the DB4GTs which had main bearing clearances very close to what mine are set at. I'll see what kind of oil pressure I have on start up and running, and then decide whether I want to spend $150 on the 160 psi gauge. That's a pilot shaft (old trannie input shaft) sticking out the the pressure plate.

The white paint that you see on a couple of the cooling system flanges is an industrial primer. Because they are aluminum, these fittings have been know to corrode badly where the hose clamps onto the flange. You won't see the paint when the hoses are on.

An interesting fact... Aston put all the bends for the cooling system into the metal fittings, the car only uses 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" straight heater hose, so if you blow a coolant hose you aren't looking for some weird convulated hose. I keep about 1 foot of each diameter hose stuck inside each other in the trunk and that covers all my coolant hose needs. I think that's one think they did smart.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170038932.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170038967.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170039000.jpg

Did a final check and found that I only had the oil drain plug screwed in by about one thread, glad I checked!

That's great thought on the coolant hoses. Too bad Porsche wasn't that far-sighted. Looking like a real motor again.

BTW, what does the engine weigh?

I'll have to look it up as I don't remember. But I can tell you that my brother and I can pick up the bare block and put it in a pickup truck. I'd guess the block weight under 200 lbs. The crank I'd guess at 50 lbs. and the head with valves and cams is probably around 100 lbs. again a guess. When you add in pistons and rods, which I weighed and they are about 400 grams (a little under 2 lbs each) (from when I weighed and balanced them) throw in the generator (10 lbs easy) and the starter (another 10 lbs), oil pan and valve covers are big thick cast aluminum, easily 3/8" thick front damper and flywheel and driven plate, pressure plate another 25 lbs. Sums it all up and I guess your looking at around 500 pounds. Oops, forgot the exhaust headers, intake manifolds (aluminum) carbs (aluminum also). Maybe 550 lbs. I'd guess the trannie is another 100 lbs. The test reports say it does about 240 hp at the rear wheels, so at the crank maybe 275 hp out of a 3.7 liter engine.

Trannie is connected. Took five minutes. Speeder (Denis Hartigan) from the board is coming over to help me shoehorn it in this Saturday. If anyone else wants to come over and "Supervise" burgers on the grill and libations are on me. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170135573.jpg

I wish I lived closer. I'd love to see that car in person.

Brit engines are not light. When people swap the Jaguar 6 cylinder with a cast iron chevy V8, the total weight is over 100 pounds ligher with the American iron up front.

Great work Hugh! Am overseas or would love to help. Would be fun to stuff this one in the car.

Hugh,

Did you through a dial indicator on the crank to see if it had a slight bow in the middle? That may have explained the tightness once the main caps were buttoned up.

In any case, it looks great, and I'm sure it will sound even better!

Matt

Yes I did and it ran true to within 0.1 thou. It turns, freely, just a little stiff getting the initial resistance broke loose after its been sitting. If you think about it, without the oil pump running, the crank is sitting on the bottom bearing shell, not floating as when its running.

I'll repeat my Offer!
 

Speeder (Denis Hartigan) is coming over to help me shoehorn in the motor on Saturday. If anyone else is interested let me know. I'm in Santa Clarita. I'll fire up the BBQ and do sirloin burgers for lunch. And, if there's enough interest, we can take a break and I'll try and fire up, and let you take the 1930 Rudge Whitworth Grand Prix Ulster motorcycle for a spin up and down the (private) street. Where else are you going to get to ride a motorcycle that actually compteted in the 1930 World Cup at the Isle of Man!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170308142.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170308183.jpg

Edit:

If you've never ridden a motorycle, please disregard the part about being allowed to ride it by yourself (I trust your honesty). I'll let you sit on the parcel rack.

Hmmmm.....it is so tempting to get on a plane.

Denis Hartigan came by this morning to help put the motor in. We ran into some problems in that the engine wouldn't turn over with the starter motor and a fresh charge on the battery. Pulled the plugs and it barely turned over. Denis stayed for a couple of hours helping me push and pull and ponder what to do. He left after a couple of hours and I was alone in my thoughts thinking I need to heat up the engine; that the block was just too cold, which I suspected would be the problem with such tight main bearing clearances. About an hour later the mail arrived and with it, Bill's (Strupgolf on the Board) electric dipstick from Indiana. I posted on another thread that I couldn't find an electric dipstick to heat the block up here in SoCal and could another Pelican brother in the cold parts of the country help me out by buying one and sending it to me and I'd reimburse him. Bill dug one out of his garage and mailed it to me Gratis! Wouldn't take a dime for it or the shipping! Thanks again Bill, you played a big role in this.

Anyway, I stick the electric dipstick in waited a couple of hours, pulled the sparkplugs and it started turning over nicely on the floor with the starter motor. But, I couldn't get any oil pressure. Pondered this for a while and called an old friend who used to sell Aston parts to me and he said "Did you prime the oil pump?" Apparently you have to pack the inside of the pump with grease to get the air out and the grease disolves with the oil. Didn't want to take the oil pump out, (a big deal) so I poured oil down the hose that goes from just after the pump to the oil pressure gauge, a little at a time, about 1/4 quart. Spun it over and got oil pressure.

Here are some pics of my brother and I putting the engine back in, it took about 1/2 hour. Still gotta hook everything up, but its in there. I may be able to get it running tomorrow, if not it'll be several weeks cause I'm going on a couple of business trips.

Bill's electric dipstick.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170556303.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170556381.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170556565.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170556596.jpg

Just beautiful Hugh, you're a lucky man...enjoy it.

Hugh da Man!

Ah, sweeet!

Sorry I missed that install, putting a rebuilt engine back in always reminds me of childbirth in reverse. (In a good way, of course). ;) As long as that stock starter motor spun it quickly, I guess all is well. Did you try to spin it w/ the plugs in?

Looks like it would not take long to get the rest of the car hooked-up and reassembled, are you going to do it tomorrow? I can't wait to get a ride in that thing.

For the rest of the board, I got to see Hugh's pleasure ranch out there in the Santa Clarita Valley and it is just a lovely little chunk of earth. Make that a lovely *not little* chunk. You can hear a pin drop, a dog can run free safely, and nice garage. Hugh has been generous beyond the call of Pelican duty in the past with me, (helping me w/ a problem related to his area of knowledge), so I particularly relished the chance to lend a hand. Just sorry that I did not do more.

Looks great, Hugh! Have a safe trip and I'll see you when you get back.:cool:

Thanks Denis

Yeah, I got it spinning very freely with the plugs in and the trannie attached. You were a great help. I wrenched my back a few days ago, and I couldn't have done what we did loosening it up without your help. When Denis says not so little a piece of property, I have 18 acres of canyon slopes and brush. Not usable, but very private.

Hugh,

Congratulations! Great work!!!

Great news, Hugh. So, that's what an electric dipstick is, I'd never hear of one. I thought it was some kind of electronic oil pressure gauge or something. Got my fingers crossed for you tomorrow.....

Yeah Ed, someone on the Board joked that they were able to pull their manual dipstick out just fine, why did I need an electric one?, (sort of like an automatic antenna). We'll see if it starts. All I did was drop it in. still have to hook up everything.

Hugh,

Are you sure that there's not some funny thrust issue that has reared its ugly head now that the trans is connected? It' be a real shame for damage to occur after rebuilding the motor. Are you prepared to do this pre-heat ritual every time you start the car?? :)

Good to see and we have the priming issue with a lot of planes a well. Putting oil down the oil pressure line works.

BTW, we stopped using the "grease on the pump" method a while ago as until the engine got running and warmed up for a while until the grease melted, so none or not as good oil flow. Back flushing the system the way you did will get oil to the system faster and better IMHO.

Gonna Try and Start it Tonight.
 

Hope I'm not jinxing it by posting here, but my brother and I are going to try and start it tonight. Cleaned up all the starter motor connections, especially the grounds! and am using a very big battery with lots of cranking amps. HOPEFULLY, I'll have good news after Dinner. Wish me luck!SmileWavy

Just saw your post, I've been traveling. I'm pretty sure its not. It turns over fine, especially after the oil pressure comes up. The thrust bearing clearances are where they're supposed to be.

Fingers crossed, break a leg.

Good luck!

And???? Does the monster live yet?

Its after dinner, so let us know so we do not have to keep holding our breath!

Joe

It's alive!http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

Almost started first kick, but I couldn't advance the distributor enough to get it to start. Had to pull the distributor and move it one tooth, and it fired right up. Only ran it for a few minutes, 80 psi of oil pressure idling (YES), and no weird noises, firing on all six cylinders. Still have lots to do to get it completed, but overall I'm delighted.

An old boss of mine once called getting an engine to start after a complete tear down, "Breathing Life into Metal", I kind of like that. We'll see if the vibration that I had which I think was the imbalanced pressure plate has been resolved. Hope to get it roadworthy over the long weekend. Thanks all for your advice and more importantly, your support. http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/pint1.gif

Looking at the beginning of this thread I can't believe I started this almost five months ago. I finished up with right about $2,100 into this, not too bad.

Great to hear it. Now get it finished and post some photos!

Joe

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...s/beerchug.gif !!!!!!!!!

Great job!!

Great news!

Cheers!SmileWavy

Frustration is all I've had the last few days. I've been traveling since I got the motor back in the car and when I went to try and bleed the brakes, I kinked a brake line in the engine compartment pulling the motor out six months ago. I replaced the line and the brake pedal kept going to the floor, no matter how much I bleed them. Figuring I might have a bad master cylinder I pulled it and the piston was stuck at the bottom of the cylinder (single braking system, I lose one brake, I lose them all). Cleaned the cylinder out, honed slightly new rebuild kit which is only seals and it pushed in and out just fine on the bench. Put it back in and the piston goes to the bottom of the cylinder and stays there when I push the pedal down. I've pulled it four or five times and blow the piston out and repeat. Not sure that I'm looking for advice, but I sure and fustrated. To top it off, the SU carburetor jets died of old age and leaked fuel all over the place when I went to start it. Here's a pic of the brake master from when I was trying to figure out which parts to use. I only use the two seals on the piston and the tiny one at the far right to seal the brake fluid intake line when you step on the pedal. The other pic is the rotted jet.

I'm traveling to Prague and then Budapest on Monday for ten days for a couple of our films, so I won't be doing anything on it for about two weeks. I just want to drive the damn thing!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174171369.jpg

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Darn it! Since you changed the one brake line, I'd maybe look at something with it or around it? Could the fitting it hooks to have twisted or is it deteriorated enough that when the strain of loosening the old line and putting on the new one may have cracked it? It would seem you've done all you can to take the M/C out of the equation.

Or, coincedentlally, something else in the brake systen decided to give up the ghost at this time?

Don't think so, I took the line of between the servo and a distribution block under the front cross member. Never took a line off of the m/c before my problems started. Maybe the return spring in the m/c is a little soft with age, but it worked fine on the bench. That means I'd have to find another m/c. I've been told one out for a Austin Healy 3000 model BJ-8 takes the same rebuild kit, gotta see if a new one is the same.

I've occasionally done hydraulic/pneumatic work. On more than one occasion, I've had a cylinder/piston ruined by a scratch that imperceivable by touch or vision.

Since you've bench tested, I wonder if something about the installation is forcing the piston not to sit properly.

Finally got back from Prague and Budapest and went back into it. The new carburetor jet was waiting for me (daughter picked it up at Moss Motors in Santa Barbara where she goes to school) got it in and balanced the SU's and timed it (not in that order) and its running well. Put the brake master cylinder rebuild kit in which I ordered and was here when I got home. Bleed the brakes for hours, four times around the car and the pedal was still going to the floor. Thinking the M/C was bypassing fluid around the cup seal and no good, I had a vague, dim lightbulb come on in my head and I unscrewed the pressure line from the M/C (one braking system, lose one brake, lose all four) and put a brake bleeder in instead and bleed the M/C and got a solid pedal right away! So the M/C is good. I think I've got an air bubble problem that won't easily come out. A friend is bringing over a "universal" pressure bleeder tomorrow, we'll see. Damn I just want this sucker to drive.