Thanks Denis

Yeah, I got it spinning very freely with the plugs in and the trannie attached. You were a great help. I wrenched my back a few days ago, and I couldn't have done what we did loosening it up without your help. When Denis says not so little a piece of property, I have 18 acres of canyon slopes and brush. Not usable, but very private.

Hugh,

Congratulations! Great work!!!

Great news, Hugh. So, that's what an electric dipstick is, I'd never hear of one. I thought it was some kind of electronic oil pressure gauge or something. Got my fingers crossed for you tomorrow.....

Yeah Ed, someone on the Board joked that they were able to pull their manual dipstick out just fine, why did I need an electric one?, (sort of like an automatic antenna). We'll see if it starts. All I did was drop it in. still have to hook up everything.

Hugh,

Are you sure that there's not some funny thrust issue that has reared its ugly head now that the trans is connected? It' be a real shame for damage to occur after rebuilding the motor. Are you prepared to do this pre-heat ritual every time you start the car?? :)

Good to see and we have the priming issue with a lot of planes a well. Putting oil down the oil pressure line works.

BTW, we stopped using the "grease on the pump" method a while ago as until the engine got running and warmed up for a while until the grease melted, so none or not as good oil flow. Back flushing the system the way you did will get oil to the system faster and better IMHO.

Gonna Try and Start it Tonight.
 

Hope I'm not jinxing it by posting here, but my brother and I are going to try and start it tonight. Cleaned up all the starter motor connections, especially the grounds! and am using a very big battery with lots of cranking amps. HOPEFULLY, I'll have good news after Dinner. Wish me luck!SmileWavy

Just saw your post, I've been traveling. I'm pretty sure its not. It turns over fine, especially after the oil pressure comes up. The thrust bearing clearances are where they're supposed to be.

Fingers crossed, break a leg.

Good luck!

And???? Does the monster live yet?

Its after dinner, so let us know so we do not have to keep holding our breath!

Joe

It's alive!http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

Almost started first kick, but I couldn't advance the distributor enough to get it to start. Had to pull the distributor and move it one tooth, and it fired right up. Only ran it for a few minutes, 80 psi of oil pressure idling (YES), and no weird noises, firing on all six cylinders. Still have lots to do to get it completed, but overall I'm delighted.

An old boss of mine once called getting an engine to start after a complete tear down, "Breathing Life into Metal", I kind of like that. We'll see if the vibration that I had which I think was the imbalanced pressure plate has been resolved. Hope to get it roadworthy over the long weekend. Thanks all for your advice and more importantly, your support. http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/pint1.gif

Looking at the beginning of this thread I can't believe I started this almost five months ago. I finished up with right about $2,100 into this, not too bad.

Great to hear it. Now get it finished and post some photos!

Joe

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...s/beerchug.gif !!!!!!!!!

Great job!!

Great news!

Cheers!SmileWavy

Frustration is all I've had the last few days. I've been traveling since I got the motor back in the car and when I went to try and bleed the brakes, I kinked a brake line in the engine compartment pulling the motor out six months ago. I replaced the line and the brake pedal kept going to the floor, no matter how much I bleed them. Figuring I might have a bad master cylinder I pulled it and the piston was stuck at the bottom of the cylinder (single braking system, I lose one brake, I lose them all). Cleaned the cylinder out, honed slightly new rebuild kit which is only seals and it pushed in and out just fine on the bench. Put it back in and the piston goes to the bottom of the cylinder and stays there when I push the pedal down. I've pulled it four or five times and blow the piston out and repeat. Not sure that I'm looking for advice, but I sure and fustrated. To top it off, the SU carburetor jets died of old age and leaked fuel all over the place when I went to start it. Here's a pic of the brake master from when I was trying to figure out which parts to use. I only use the two seals on the piston and the tiny one at the far right to seal the brake fluid intake line when you step on the pedal. The other pic is the rotted jet.

I'm traveling to Prague and then Budapest on Monday for ten days for a couple of our films, so I won't be doing anything on it for about two weeks. I just want to drive the damn thing!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174171369.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174171397.jpg

Darn it! Since you changed the one brake line, I'd maybe look at something with it or around it? Could the fitting it hooks to have twisted or is it deteriorated enough that when the strain of loosening the old line and putting on the new one may have cracked it? It would seem you've done all you can to take the M/C out of the equation.

Or, coincedentlally, something else in the brake systen decided to give up the ghost at this time?

Don't think so, I took the line of between the servo and a distribution block under the front cross member. Never took a line off of the m/c before my problems started. Maybe the return spring in the m/c is a little soft with age, but it worked fine on the bench. That means I'd have to find another m/c. I've been told one out for a Austin Healy 3000 model BJ-8 takes the same rebuild kit, gotta see if a new one is the same.

I've occasionally done hydraulic/pneumatic work. On more than one occasion, I've had a cylinder/piston ruined by a scratch that imperceivable by touch or vision.

Since you've bench tested, I wonder if something about the installation is forcing the piston not to sit properly.

Finally got back from Prague and Budapest and went back into it. The new carburetor jet was waiting for me (daughter picked it up at Moss Motors in Santa Barbara where she goes to school) got it in and balanced the SU's and timed it (not in that order) and its running well. Put the brake master cylinder rebuild kit in which I ordered and was here when I got home. Bleed the brakes for hours, four times around the car and the pedal was still going to the floor. Thinking the M/C was bypassing fluid around the cup seal and no good, I had a vague, dim lightbulb come on in my head and I unscrewed the pressure line from the M/C (one braking system, lose one brake, lose all four) and put a brake bleeder in instead and bleed the M/C and got a solid pedal right away! So the M/C is good. I think I've got an air bubble problem that won't easily come out. A friend is bringing over a "universal" pressure bleeder tomorrow, we'll see. Damn I just want this sucker to drive.