Best "On Board Diagnostic II" Code Reader?
 

Ok guys. I'm looking for some input on "On Board Diagnostic II" code readers.

My '99 Taurus is having an evaporative emission system problem -- according to the code that AutoZone read for me. It might be something as simple as the fuel cap, but in reading the manual there are other components to the system that could be the problem. It looks like it would be helpful if I had a code reader while I'm trying to run this down -- at least to be clearing the code without clearing the whole Powertrain Control Module memory by disconnecting the battery.

It looks like code readers range in price from about $75 on up. Here is one place I found from searching online, with a number of brands:

http://www.autobarn.net/obdcoreandsc.html

Does anyone have experience finding that one brand is better than others? I'm really interested in doing this "on the cheap" but don't want to waste money on any "junk" code reader. I'll probably try to pick up something locally rather than order one, so chime in if you have any opinion about ones that might be available at the common auto parts retailers.

Thanks in advance for any input.

I have a deluxe one that interfaces with a PC. You might want to do a search on specific Ford Taurus codes; no real need to buy a reader as you can borrow the reader from AutoZone at will. Just have the codes specific to the Taurus on hand.

If you want to buy a reader, the most basic one that allows you to reset the MIL is all you need.

EVAP codes are a PITA. If its not the gas cap you almost need a smoke machene to find the leak.

I have an Innova 3110 which does a good job and comes with software & cable to enable you to track your vehicles problems on a PC (not Mac compatible unfortunately). I think I paid about $170.00 for it from eBay or other source.

Couple-O-things here on OBDII that will frustrate you.

Whether it is a Ford Taurus, BMW 540 or Porsche; OBDII is almost a complete waste of time and energy to try to properly diagnose any issue on a late model vehicle.

Yes the codes numbers are the same for which ever vehicle you are working on but that doesn't mean they will lead you to the problem.

All vechicle manufacturers were 'forced' into complying to OBDII standards from 1996 on. They said "Yeah............OK...............we'll comply.................wink-wink"

Each Manufacturer has their own scan tool with their own software, with their own procedure for diagnosing, repairing, clearing code(s) and verifying the repair. Do you think all that knowledge and information will be exactly paralell to OBDII? - No.

If you're very lucky your particular problem may be on the Official OBDII list with repair instructions.

Example: BMW complies with OBDII.............but it was not until late production 2000 model year they completely did so. All OBDII spec scan tools communicate at a rate of 10MBS - that is the standard.

The BMW Factory scan tool (GT1) communicates at the rate of 100MBS. If you connect a generic OBDII scan tool to a BMW the computer senses the slower (10MBS) connection and automatically switches to the OBDII software. Which, by no coincedence, is only about 10-15%
of the capability of the sytems self diagnostics.

Point is even your Ford is programed this way. The OBDII code may not even point you to the proper fault area or worse the symptom/fault may not be recognized by OBDII.

As far as your specific problem; the majority of EVAP codes have to do with the fuel cap failing or not seated properly after a fill up.

Best advice here. Go to that auto parts store that read-out the code(s) for you. Buy a quality fuel cap and install it. Have them erase the code. If they have a scanner to read OBDII the scanner will have the capability to erase.

Drive the vehicle. It may take 3-10 complete key/drive cycles to verify as to whether it's fixed or the problem remains. If it remains take it to a reputable shop that has a factory scan tool.................which unfortunately may only be a Ford dealer.

My $ 75 Actron is fine and I use it on the Volvo and the BMW.

It can erase the codes too which is nice as a TPS code that I am getting in the Volvo is taking longer and longer to return each time I erase it.

Thanks (to all) for the input.

I've already cleared the code once by disconnecting the battery, but don't like to do that since it clears the computer's memory too and the system has to relearn again.

The dealer will probably charge $80 just to read the code. I plan on replacing the cap, but am thinking that the rest of the system isn't that complicated that I won't be able to run the problem down myself if the cap doesn't solve it. I think I'll just go with the cheapest reader I can get to clear the codes while I test different parts of the system.

Based upon what I'm reading, the dealer can't get any more specific data about what tripped the code than I can get with a cheap reader. There is a leak in the system -- a fairly significant one based upon the code (which makes the cap the biggest suspect), but that's all the system records. The dealer, or other mechanic, will have to test/inspect the system the same way I will to identify the fault.

Thanks again for the input; if anyone has any more comment, feel free to add it. Every little bit helps.

--Joe

Quote ["Based upon what I'm reading, the dealer can't get any more specific data about what tripped the code than I can get with a cheap reader." ]

No..... this is not a correct assumption. Please re-read my post.

If the problem persists spend the $80.00 at the Ford dealer and have them print out the complete report. Then try to repair the part/system your self.

Remember, proper diagnostics is the key to proper repair