Q: Dodge Durango brakes

[cashflyer]

I'm going to be working on the brakes of my mothers Dodge Durango this weekend, and wanted to ask opinions of the symptoms it has.

Several years ago, the brakes started exhibiting what I call an "oscillating grabbiness".

Let's see if I can describe it: Press on the brakes and the pedal seems to bounce a little under the pressure... at the same time the brakes are surging/oscillating between what would be normal clamping and excessive grabbing. Almost as if the rotors were divided into half the circumference glue and the other half oil... as it passes through the caliper, the pads grab, dont grab, grab, dont grab.... infinitum.

That is just my description of the symptom - there is no glue or oil on the rotor. (duh) Hopefully you understand what I am trying to describe.

Anyway, the brake pads were changed and the symptoms went away. For a while. Eventually, the symptoms returned.

This time, the pads and rotors were changed. Again, the symptoms went away for a while but eventually returned.

So this time, the car was taken to a "professional". The rotors were pronounced "fine" and the pads were changed. But you guessed it.... the symptoms eventually returned.

The surging takes several months to return each time. It's not immediate. And if you ignore the problem, it only gets worse over time.

I suspect that each time the brakes were replaced with standard cheap autozone pads. This time around, I plan to have the rotors checked and cut if necessary, and to put on some very good Hawk pads.


Does anybody think there is more to this problem?

Have I missed something obvious?
(other than the fact that the first gen Durangos SUCK)

Thanks.

[Joeaksa]

Sounds like one or more of the rotors may be out of round, and the disk may get worse when heated up.

Put a dial indicator on then and see if they are warped.

[Jims5543]

I had a 2001 Dakota.

The original pads wore out at 55K miles. I, at that time replaced them with Hawks and replaced the fron rotors with powerslots from tire rack. The only other brake related problem I had after that was a siezed caliper at around 65K miles. Other than that one incident I never had any problems with the truck.

Durango's are heavy. I had gotten into the habit with my Dakota of throwing the tranny in neutral and taking my foot off the brake when possible, especially after a hard stop.

You mom is probably warping her rotors stopping hard and sitting with her foot on the pedal. This is trypical heavy cars and trucks with Auto trannies.

[legion]

Sounds to me like the rotors are getting a buildup of residue from the pads on them.

[cashflyer]

Originally posted by legion
Sounds to me like the rotors are getting a buildup of residue from the pads on them.

This is what I was thinking, since the rotors have been changed but the problem came back.

Even so, I still plan to have the rotors checked and trued. I'm tired of this problem; and my mother, who is retired, doesn't need to keep driving it with these (possibly) dangerous brakes.

My wife thought I was just exaggerating (like when I 'need' new stuff for the 911) but after she drove the Durango herself, she came in and told me "fix it NOW."

I'll also check out the Powerslots that Jim mentioned.

[legion]

I would try moving to different pads/rotors. Certain combinations are more prone to this than others.

I had the same problem on my F150. I moved to forged (rather than cast) rotors and the problem disappeared.

[Jims5543]

I noticed the change immediatly after switching to the Powerslot / Hawk combo.

Remember to burn in the pads like you would on your P-car.

[cashflyer]

Do you think I'm just wasting my effort with dressing the rotors that are on there?

If I opt for slotted, I'll have to put her repair off for another week to order the rotors.

[legion]

It depends on how frequently it happens.

If it happens every 20,000 miles and your mother puts 20,000 miles a year on her Durango, then it might be worthwhile to swap the rotors to something else rather than having them turned every year.

If it happen every 20,000 miles and your mother puts 5,000 miles a year on her Durango, then having them turned once every 4 years may not be such a big deal.

It sounds like in your case it is frequent enough so that moving to a different rotor/pad might be worthwhile.

[cashflyer]

This problem has recurred approximately every 18-20 months, regardless of whether the rotors were changed or just turned. The rotors that went on a few years ago were OEM replacements. I'm not sure if OEM is cast or forged.

Her retirement went into effect 12/31, so I expect her driving will drop significantly with no more trips to work and back each day.

Worst case, I guess, is that I do this again in 18 months.

[CarreraDan]

Many WJ Jeeps do this too. It is mostly warped rotors which seems to happen more with aftermarket (cheap autoparts) pads. My future mother in law who is a very smooth driver and doesn't brake hard at all was warping rotors every 10-15k miles on her WJ. After the second time I put Mopar pads and rotors on it and no more problems after 20k miles. The pads were from autozone that were on the Jeep. My last WJ went 75k miles on Mopar pads and rotors with no warping at all, including pulling a 4000lb boat most weekends. I know the factory pads are about 2x the price of others but it might be worth a try.

[legion]

Originally posted by Jim Cesiro
Remember to burn in the pads like you would on your P-car.

How does one do that?

[pmajka]

if you got more than 12k on stock rotors ,you are doing good.
2K Dak RT

[cashflyer]

Originally posted by legion
How does one do that?

Drive it like you stole it.

From the Hawk website:
Q: What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?
A: Brake pad break-in procedure:

-After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
-At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
-At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
-Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.

If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.

[VincentVega]

Or, get on an empty road and drive around with the brake depressed until you smell the pads. Continue driving for a few miles so the brakes cool off, dont come to a stop for a few minutes.