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DIY fiberglass motorcycle bodywork painting?

Every f^%&*ing time I want to get some bodywork painted, its a huge ordeal. Its just gloss black with white numbers. And I'm cheap. No need for a $800 paint job. Every time I just tell myself that I'm gonna rattlecan it and wetsand to make it all shiny and pretty. But, I end up paying someone $400 and it looks like crap anyway. What's a step up from rattlecan if I want to do this stuff myself? I have a cheap compressor. Maybe some type of paint sprayer from Home Depot? Anyone do their own semi-pro shooting? Need some tips so I can tackle this.

Old 03-02-2007, 05:15 PM
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Get yourself a touch-up gun (detail gun/jamb gun) at Wally World, and use that with the compressor you've got; should be fine for bike parts.
Old 03-02-2007, 05:45 PM
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Totally agree. Small pieces with a touch up/door jamb gun are a piece of cake. You don't need a huge compressor, the gun is a lot easier, and it's much easier working with a small panel, for a bunch of reasons. Dust control is much easier, not getting runs is much easier, colorsanding and polishing out, etc.

Small parts are a piece of cake, a whole 'nuther world from painting an entire car or a large panel.
Old 03-02-2007, 05:54 PM
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Something like this?

Home Depot

Campbell Hausfeld
Automotive Spray Gun
Model DH7500
$60.00

Can't get a link to work.

Last edited by motion; 03-02-2007 at 06:10 PM..
Old 03-02-2007, 06:08 PM
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Something like this

Although even a non HVLP gun is good, too. They require less air flow and volume and work with even very small compressors. But if your compressor can meet these specs, it's fine.
Old 03-02-2007, 06:25 PM
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I don't know what your turn around requirements are but if you don't want to do it yourself try the local vo-tech school. Often they will do it free if you supply the materials.

That being said, go by the automotive paint store and get a guy at the counter to recommend a simple one stage enamel product. What you will find is that the painting is relatively simple. Its the prep work that often makes the job look really good...especially if you're going gloss black...it shows every blemish or poor prep.

BTW...when you pay for the pint of paint and reducers etc, you'll find out why getting a car painted is so pricey.

Last edited by Dueller; 03-02-2007 at 06:37 PM..
Old 03-02-2007, 06:33 PM
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I suggest you take a look at an Iwata RG3 spray gun. They are outstanding and simple to use. An airbrush shop in Anaheim called Coast Airbrush is a great resource for all of your questions and supplies. No affiliation, but the owner David Monnig is very helpful.

Good luck, David
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:58 PM
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black is the hardest color to get right
it shows every little flaw
Old 03-02-2007, 09:21 PM
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rattle can it

I got pretty good with Krylon last year. I like long slides in the rain

There was a great thread on wera about rattle can jobs and some of the bikes looked spectacular.

http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=95099&highlight=paint+spray

Last edited by 5axis; 03-02-2007 at 10:57 PM..
Old 03-02-2007, 10:27 PM
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The Iwata looks really nice, and I second the recommendation for single stage enamel (but don't try spraying metallics). At the price you're paying for paintwork, you could certainly pay off a larger compressor in no time.
Old 03-03-2007, 04:48 AM
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Use PPG Delstar paint, single stage, color sands and buffs just fine. For a quart of paint, hardener, and reducer should run around $50-70, gloss black is a standard color. Remember prep is the key to a good paint job.

I painted my 914-6 with it in the driveway, took awhile but it turned out really nice.











Old 03-03-2007, 06:24 AM
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Should have posted this one since this is about motorcycles. This is the tank on my bike. I painted it with PPG Delstar then gave it about 20 coats of clear.

Later, Don
Old 03-03-2007, 06:28 AM
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As usual, you guys have all the answers. I really appreciate it. I ordered an Iwata RG3L off eBay. The online dealers all wanted $285 or so.... only $125 on eBay for a new unit. As far as the compressor goes, I have a Home Depot $100 air compressor that I use for tires and blowing out my garage. Its the one with a blue oval tank about 24" long. Will this work? Or, do I need something smaller with more precision?

The single stage enamel sounds like the way to go. I have a local paint shop that can supply me with the paint. I guess they'll also answer my questions about cleanup materials required. I rattle-canned my white number plates on my last set of bodywork using their pro masking tape and it came out awesome. I'm looking forward to handling this stuff myself and eliminating all the hassles of the stoners who usually do it for me.

Bodywork... I need to fill in a few gouges and imperfections here and there. After prep sanding, do I just smear a little bondo from a Pep Boys kit and finish sand?
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:40 AM
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No, get the good body filler from the body shop. The pep boys stuff is pourous and holds moisture under the paint, not good. Have you ever seen a car that had the bondo come off and there's rust underneath, it's the cheap bondo.

Your compressor sounds fine, buy a good air/moisture seperator filter and drain tank before painting. Should be good to go.

Good Luck, Don
Old 03-03-2007, 07:12 AM
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Your compressor - it's not a matter of precision, it's a matter of capacity. You NEVER need a smaller compressor to drive a paint gun, the compressor can never have too much capacity, since pressure at the gun is regulated at the gun. You can have too little capacity, though.

Your gun will have the air flow specs with it, and your paint will also give you some basic specs, too. You need to check your compressor to see if it meets those specs. If the compressor capacity is too small and can't provide the proper flow and PSI at the gun, you won't get proper atomization. Don't fall into that trap - make sure your compressor has enough capacity. If it doesn't, the gun will still spray, but you will not have a good time and it won't turn out good.

The gun you are buying is a good one. I predict you'll really like painting your own m/c panels. With the right equipment, it's a lot easier than you think, and it's very satisfying getting pro results. Have fun!
Old 03-03-2007, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
With the right equipment, it's a lot easier than you think, and it's very satisfying getting pro results. Have fun!
And you can't beat the smells. I love it.

Even still, consider a respirator.
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Old 03-03-2007, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SanDiegoDon
Your compressor sounds fine, buy a good air/moisture seperator filter and drain tank before painting. Should be good to go.
I didn't know about this... will this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/AIR-REGULATOR-OIL-WATER-SEPARATOR-FILTER-UNIT-AIR-TOOLS_W0QQitemZ250088509240QQihZ015QQcategoryZ3499 9QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item25 0088509240
Old 03-03-2007, 07:32 AM
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Compressor requirements from Iwata

http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/sprayguns/guide.jsp
Old 03-03-2007, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SanDiegoDon
....I painted my 914-6 with it in the driveway, took awhile but it turned out really nice.











Lemme guess....it wasn't THAT driveway

Nice work, Don.
Old 03-03-2007, 07:45 AM
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What would you guys recommend for a small sander that would allow me to knock down the rough paint and gouges on the bodywork? Would a small palm orbital sander with 400 grit do the job?

Looks like my compressor will be fine. Will check into the high quality bondo at the paint shop.

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Old 03-03-2007, 07:54 AM
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