Volvo Tranny Tail Seal Repair - I'm Stumped!

[CJFusco]

Using this tutorial ( http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90..._Shaft_Bushing ) I have spent the day trying to replace the automatic transmission tail seal/gasket/bushing on my 1990 Volvo 740GLE.

I removed the necessary bolts, removed the crossmember and tranny mount, and undid the bolts holding the housing. I just can't get the flange out of the center of the housing in order to remove the housing from the tranny. How do you remove this section?

And yes, I did post in 2 volvo forums... but last time I had a problem with my volvo, I got 5 helpful replies on Pelican before any on the volvo forums...

[lm6y]

Never worked on a Volvo, but my guess is that there is sealant on the splines on the flange, and the shaft to keep the tranny fluid from weeping out the end.

I don't see any snap rings, or a retaining bolt in the center, so I would think a three jaw puller should pop it off pretty easily.

A tip I have learned is to put moderate pressure on the puller, and then smack the flange with a hammer along the outside circumference. Don't wail on it, but don't baby it either.

Hope it helps.

[tab tanner]

Use a puller, it's stuck on the splines as mentioned, when you put it back on use some Locktite 574 sold by our host to sell the spline's or it will leak again. Make sure the is no groove in the flange where the seal rides or you guessed it it will leak

[CJFusco]

Thanks boys, once again the Porsche forum is more help for my Volvo than both Volvo forums combined

[CJFusco]

I've soaked the flange with liquid wrench and went around the perimeter with a rubber mallet. Now, I think it's puller time. Only problem is that I've never used one, nor do I know what it looks like. Would I be able to get one from the local auto parts store? Hardware store?

[BRPORSCHE]

I got one for my CV joints this past week. Don't know if you need a three finger or two finger puller. I got mine at autozone, works great.

Here's a picture:

Two:


Three:


Stick the pointy part into the hole...and then use the fingers to pull it off. When you use the puller attach a wrench or ratchet to it to make it easier to tighten. After evaluating the pictures I reccomend you use the three finger.

At sears:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00946906000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

$49.99

[CJFusco]

Okay, I am starting to get pissed off.

The flange WILL NOT BUDGE, and my roommates are starting to get sick of the Volvo sitting up on stands in the driveway.

Penetrating oil, whacks with hammer, three-arm puller - nothing has worked so far. It will not come off. HELP!

[the]

Try putting some heat on it. Even with just a $10 propane torch from the hardware store. Heat is amazingly effective at freeing stuff up. Penetrating oil, IMO, does next to nothing.

[CJFusco]

THanks for the tip.

I want to make sure I am using the puller correctly. I put the sharp end into the hole on the flange (actually, I put the sharp end into a washer and put the washer over the hole so i don't strip the threads), and tightened the legs around the rim of the flange. Then, with a socket and ratchet, I tightened the puller shaft onto the flange. Then, I tried pulling back on the legs of the puller. Is this correct? Are you supposed to pull the legs like levers, or are you supposed to just pull the assembly straight backwards?

[notfarnow]

Have you tried using the F word? That usually helps.

I always have a hard time using two/three way pullers in a confined space when I'm upside down, cranky and cursing a blue streak.

If I were trying to get that off, I'd whip up a bolt-on puller out of angle iron and a big-a$$ bolt & nut. Bolt the angle iron to the flange, with the big-a$$ bolt passing through and pressing against the shaft. Hold the nut with a wrench, tighten the bolt. Even easier if you weld the nut to the angle iron.



I've made these to open VW 020 tranny cases, pull axles etc.. Here's an example:

[deanp]

Once you get the puller on there and hand tighten to lock the fingers onto the flange, you keep 'tightening' with the wrench or ratchet. The threaded rod will remain stationary and the screw action will pull the fingers back and the housing with it (hopefully).

[lendaddy]

20 second illustration (and it shows)

[CJFusco]

Originally posted by deanp
Once you get the puller on there and hand tighten to lock the fingers onto the flange, you keep 'tightening' with the wrench or ratchet. The threaded rod will remain stationary and the screw action will pull the fingers back and the housing with it (hopefully).

Yes, I tried this -- it just gets to the point where there is no more thread on the rod and I can't tighten it any more!

[CJFusco]

Actually, the reason why the rod gets to the point where it has no more threading is because the legs "straighten out". I have tightened the legs pretty well, and they still do this.

[deanp]

Since you indicated you never used a puller - here's a very primitive drawing.

[deanp]

Ahhh... there are different size pullers available. The fingers are also usually reversible with offset holes so the grabbing distance is shorter.

Either that, or start with the threaded rod further out (to give you more room to tightend) and use a 1/2" or 1" spacer the same or slightlly smaller diameter of the output shaft, use in place of the washer you have there now.

[deanp]

[lendaddy]

Once you get a little tension on the jack screw, add heat with the torch. This will assure you don't heat too much as it will be obvious when it releases. You should be home free from there.

[notfarnow]

the pelicans are all crackin' their mad MS Paint Skilz

[CJFusco]

Ok I kinda feel like an idiot... I didn't realize initially that the puller could be adjusted by moving the 1st leg down further on the 2nd leg (there are about 3 holes along the length of the leg).

GOT IT! Once I had gotten the puller all the way down to where it couldn't be tightened any more, the damn flange popped off! What a freaking load off my shoulders.

After I took off the housing, I noticed a couple long-ish (2") metal shards right on the edge of the tranny housing. I was very worried until I saw the state that the rear seal was in (the round object in the front left corner of the pic):



The object behind it is the NEW rear seal. It looks like the seal's metal outer ring separated somehow, and got eaten up and became the metal shards I found. I think it's safe to say that I found my transmission oil leak.

Tomorrow it all goes back together.....

I hope...