1st vehicle sale on ebay - what do I need to know?

[skipdup]

I've got an old truck (maybe worth $3-6K) I need to sell - and haven't been able to do so locally.

So, I was considering listing on ebay. But, I have absolutely no idea what's involved, what to be careful of, what I should do and what I shouldn't do, what the safe methods of payment are, etc.

I want to make sure I don't screw myself (or anyone else, for that matter).

I've tried searching here and on ebay itself. But, I can't seem to find info "for dummies".

I have an ebay & paypal acct. I have a website set up with ~175 pictures, video, etc. I don't know much about the mechanical condition (run well) or the history of the truck - bought 6 months ago as a project but changed mind.

Any advice welcomed.

Thanks,
Skip

[the]

The biggest issue for a seller really is just payment. The only time you are truly safe in releasing the car and title is when irrevocable payment has been received by you (i.e., cash in your bank!).

Paypal can be a little bit of an issue, because the buyer has some time period to contest the charges. Not good for cars, IMO, because if the buyer gets "Buyers Remorse," and is of that type, he has some time period to reverse the charges on you. Then you have to convince Paypal to give you your money back.

Other than the paypal issue, the cautions, etc. of selling on ebay are the same as if you sold locally. Ebay is just another advertising medium.

[many944s]

Here are just a couple of things to watch for:
-Make sure you state in your auction if a bidder has less than a +5 feedback you will cancel their bid if they do not contact you prior to bidding. (alot of Ebay users will bid up the price on your auction then never follow through, this helps weed out the scammers)

-You may also state you reserve the right to end the auction early "due to being for sale locally" (This way if you do get an offer you can't refuse, you can end the auction early without really bugging anyone)

-Accept as many types of payment as possible, though be carefull accepting Paypal for a vehicle auction as their % will kill you!

-Make sure to state you have the title in hand, and wether it is clear, salvage, etc..

-Try not to offer shipping, as alot of times someone will win the auction not realizing how much car carrier shipment is. I usually offer delivery upto 100 miles from my location for $1.50 per loaded mile, if they are outside that 100 mile area I only allow pickup, payment due at time of pickup and title signed over only when all payment is in hand.

-Sometimes it is to your advantage to require a down payment. Usually $200 within 3 days of end of auction to make sure the buyer is legit. Plus, if the winner requires you to wait a while before they pick it up, you have some of the money up front.

I'm sure there are several more, but I'm getting ready to hit the road to Vegas.

Hope it helps!
-Nick

[1fastredsc]

The only thing that sucks about selling on ebay is that you generally won't get what you think the vehicle is worth since ebay is usually a last resort for something that's not selling anywhere else.

[on2wheels52]

"ebay is usually a last resort for something that's not selling anywhere else"
I'm in something of a small market area, the few vehicles I've sold needed wider exposure. Even posting in the Little Rock paper got no serious inquires.
Be prepared for some crackpot offers on your ebay listing.
Jim

[LeeH]

Cars that are available in mass numbers don't do well on Ebay. Unique cars/trucks can do well. Think of it this way... if you were in the market for a Toyota Camry, what incintive would you have to shop nationwide when there are a dozen for sale in your local paper? On the other hand, a guy in Paducah Kentucky might go to Ebay if he were looking for a collector car.

Before you go to the trouble to create the Ebay ad, look carefully at closed listings for trucks that are similar to yours. This should give you an idea of what kind of money to expect from your sale.

Do you have any Ebay feedback? Sellers with little or no feedback tend to get fewer bids. Do you have family or friends with high feedback who'll run the auction for you?

Lots of photos and lots of details help give bidders confidence to bid. I just sold a VW Jetta Turbo Diesel to a guy in Canada via Ebay. He said that the fact that I had mentioned quite a few of the car's flaws made him feel like he could trust me.

[skipdup]

Thanks guys. Good info here.

I have 100% feedback. But, only 9 transactions going back to 2004. No friends or family (that I know of) do ebay regularly.

The truck is a '75 IH Travelall. Certainly not available is mass numbers.

What payments (besides cash) are considered safe these days? And, is it acceptable to request cash?

So basically... it sounds like if I do a good & thorough add (per Nick's & Lee's post), have lots of pictures, be very honest in representing the car, have a good bill of sale (wife's an attorney), and make sure I have good funds before releasing car or title, get a deposit from winning bidder - I should be OK?

Seems simple enough.

Thanks again,
Skip

[LeeH]

I request a $500 deposit within three days. I also state that the deposit is non-refundable. If the buyer flakes out... no problem. I prefer wire transfer in advance of pick up. Once the money is in your account you're in good shape. I like cashier's checks drawn on major banks. It's easy enough to see if they're real if you take it into a branch.

How does your Travelall compare to this one?

How about this one?

[skipdup]

Lee- I think mine is considerably nicer than the two you posted. But, certainly not perfect.

I'll definitely request a deposit.

- Skip

[75'930cab]

I wouldn't accept Paypal when selling a car except just the deposit! And if you do take Paypal make sure you only accept instant transfers or Echecks that way they can't do a chargeback as easy!