First thing I need to check is whether it's got the external oil cooler (not sure). If not, I'm doing that upgrade straight away. Second thing is to tear into the engine and see exactly what I've got. Assess the chain tensioner situation and (if necessary) upgrade to the later hydraulic type and investigate the case stud situation. I suspect most of this stuff has been done already, but not sure - I'm one of those people that doesn't take someone else's word - I need to see/know for myself. I love the simplicity of this car - fully manual, CIS, no stupid electronics crap to break or figure out. Just bare-bones simplicity, which has HUGE appeal for me. Newer cars, with their dozens of sensors and miles of wiring are absolutely soulless to me - they're just computers with an engine stuck on. This is an AUTOMOBILE. No a/c, none of that crap. Don't need it, don't want it. This is raw and unadulterated driving - just exactly what I want, and the way I intend to keep it. I'm pretty sure it's got the desirable SSI setup on the exhaust, but I need to verify all this.

Once the engine stuff is assessed/done and I'm sure I've done everything to keep from having a "2.7L time bomb", I think a suspension upgrade is definitely in order. Elephant racing is a fantastic site and makes a nice package (I was pricing their Street/Track package yesterday, but it's a hefty $3,500). It'll probably be one of those "little at a time" sorts of things, but we'll see. I might just bite the bullet and do it all at once. You're right though - this could turn into quite the little track monster by the time I'm done with it. . . This will be quite a learning experience - I'm very green when it comes to suspensions and 911-specific systems are largely new to me, so I've got a significant amount of homework to do - although I'm fortunate in that I have one of the best resources available for helping me along here on Pelican.

The Callaway will be tough to let go - I've got literally THOUSANDS of dollars in parts sitting in the garage - standalone EMS system, electronic boost controllers, several turbochargers, 3.0L cranks, Carrillo rods, spare heads, injectors, two spare engines, etc. Lots of stuff. Big pain in the arse to sell piece-by-piece but ultimately, I'll probably make more $$$ for it - enough to build a very nice Gen-II 911. From one point of view, it has the potential to be a piece of "automotive history", but from another (more pragmatic point of view, particularly in light of recent events) - even if I put the many hours necessary into turning all those pieces/parts into a monster 944, at the end, all I have is still a 944. . . with a book value of about $3,000. That's the practical side of me speaking, but I have to consider all factors. As heartbreaking as the 951 incident was, can you imagine how I'd feel if $20k worth of Callaway 944 went "poof" and the insurance company showed up holding a check for a paltry $2,000 or whatever? I'd want to just jump off a bridge.

The greatest thing (for CA) about this 911 is it's technically a 1974 chassis - so smog exempt. I specifically wanted a pre-1975 just for that reason, so I don't have to deal with the smog Nazis and can mod/tweak to my heart's content. VERY liberating.

Actually the first thing I'm doing is installing one of these:

[link deleted]

(apologies for the off-site link - I'd order it from Pelican but they don't appear to stock it). I want this kind of system with a remote T-handle activation, not a "stop, grab the extinguisher, get out of the car and hope to put out the fire before the car explodes" sort of deal. I had a fire extinguisher in the 951 - lot of good it did. If I'd had an actual fire suppression system with an in-the-cockpit activation, it may very well have saved the car.

I've learned my lesson.

Jeff, what year is your car? Sounds like you bought an SC. if so, you'll have to do all that stuff if it wasn't done by the PO, but I'm surprised you would buy a car like this without knowing all that stuff! SCs came with loop coolers (worthless) and require the Carrera tensioner update, pop-off valve and you'll want to see if the WUR was replaced at some point.

Is it too late to get a Carrera?

'74 "S" chassis with lots of upgrades as you see. The PO put the pop-off valve on but I (stupidly) forgot to ask about whether he installed a Carrera-style oil cooler. Pretty sure it just has the loop "trombone" cooler, but I'll confirm. In any case I want to upgrade to the finned style with the fan, probably the finned supply/return lines as well. Anything I can do to keep temps down, I'm doing.

The PO never had the engine cracked open during the time he owned it so I don't know what I'm getting as far as internals. Worst case is I upgrade the tensioners and studs myself, but I suspect it has been done at some point in its 33-year history. I'm okay with doing it if need be.

I tried owning a 911 with no A/C, didn't work out so well. Damn you socal people, with your 72 deg year-round temps!

Good news is that being a 74, it has 69-73 exhaust, so that helps in the temp area and I'd leave those on. SSI's won't buy you anything over an early exhaust. From the digitals, it looks like the car was done right, so I imagine it's got all the necessary updates, but you really should order a widemouth cooler (Elephant) from Pelican as a first step.

M&K muffler would be nice.

On the motor, I'd consider a 3.2 if/when you need one, or plan for an upgrade next summer. most bang for buck out there.

it really is a beautiful car.

3 . 6 :cool:


I agree with Shaun though, it is a very nice car. I've always had a soft spot for the middle-year cars, they're lightweight, and you get a lot for the money. Plus, the un-flared look has a certain simplistic appeal. Might I also suggest RS or similar bumpers, so you lose the big bumper pads. Good for weight loss too.

Thanks - yea I'm mulling my options if indeed I get the engine open and determine it needs work due to pulling studs or other issues. If so, the EASIEST thing to do would buy a 3.2 (would a 3.6 work? Bwahahahaha!) The most "honest" thing to do is keep the 2.7L for period-correct authenticity, but I suppose I could always plop in a 3.2 or whatever to use, then fix up the 2.7L original engine "correctly" out of the car. Lots of potential ways to go. Having options is good I suppose.

Supposedly running quite well - if anything, the PO said it could probably use a set of points, but that was about it. I'll order those and do 'em to start, then install that fire suppression system I mentioned, then take it in for a once-over by a Porsche tech to identify any things that need immediate attention, but I suspect it'll be a "just go drive it" sort of conclusion.

It doesn't have those infernal "themal reactors" thank goodness - I checked.

Jeff, instead of replacing points, go with an optical trigger system, especially if you plan to keep the 2.7. Pelican sells them, and they're a huge improvement over points.

Aren't there big gains to be realized on a 2.7 by going to carbs? If the engine is otherwise sound, some PMOs and high-compression 2.7RS pistons/jugs/cams could make for a great motor.

(do it yourself)

3.2 installed: $6K

3.6 installed: $14K

yes, a 3.6 is wonderful, just a much bigger job. 3.2 is virtually a weekend job. And with a SW chip, test pipe and M&K muffler, it will be plenty of motor for such a light car. My $.02.

Out of adversity comes triumph!

BTW, the absolute weakest link on the car is the brakes. Before even considering going to the track, I'd give it a Carrera caliper/disc upgrade.

You've got to stop before you can go fast.

Good point - I'll look into that also.

I dunno about those optical systems. I'm sure they're better and more modern and all that, but honestly I want to keep modern technology OUT of this car. It'd be dishonest to simply bolt in a modern semiconductor-based electronic ignition system, IMHO.

If I can keep the most high-tech electronic doohickey in the car as the radio, I'll be happy. I want this thing to be as raw and simple as possible. No carbon fiber, no computers, no GPS systems, none of that stuff. Pure, simple mechanical fun. . . In all of its "inferior" glory.

The carbs sound interesting though - any idea what kind of gains can be realized with carbs versus the CIS system?

Probably going to stick with the points. . . for now.

Jeff,
I have the stock 2.7L engine in my '74 with Webers and points, all
old school". The Webers don't increase hp, they just provide much better throttle response, cleaner engine compartment and a great, throaty sound, even combined with the stock exhaust!

carbs are wondrous, but if you do carbs, you really ought to do cams... they give you great throttle response and sound out of the box, but to get the most out of them, you've got to open the motor.

Carbs are going to be $3K when all is said and done.

Get rid of your points. They just plain suck.

Jeff, up to you regarding the points. The optical system is appealing because you never have to change points again, never any worries about degraded performance due to dirty points. Also, it is basically invisible, the entire system fits inside the cap where the points reside. You just run wires out to tie into the stock ignition box.

Jeff, we'll have to park our cars side by side as soon as you get it. The reason? I have the same wheel paint scheme and my car is black! My wheels are scheduled to be painted soon, but after seeing yours, I have some doubts.