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Musicians, need hrlp w/ studio sound-proofing:
I did a quick search but did not find what I was looking for, wasn't there a thread here, (or two), regarding what to use to sound-insulate a home studio? I have a job doing just this for a friend, but I need some help from the brain/experience trust here as to what to use and where to get it. Buying online is OK.
The space is a converted garage w/ drywall and a ceiling, looks are not important but sound-deadening is. What to use and where to put it? TIA as always! :cool: |
Start by running batt insulation between the studs all the way to the underside of the deck/structure above the ceiling.
What's your budget? There are literally hundreds of wall/ceiling assemblies you can get with different STC (sound transmittance class) ratings, or if rebuilding elements is too expensive I'd start with trying to get the interior of the space as "dead" as possible with maximum absorptivity. Don't forget the ceiling & floor. :) Quickie layman's primer on STC: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class |
Subscribed. I am in the same position. Planning on using one of the large rooms in my new (old) big house for a studio. Playing and recording like in the old days. Really looking forward to it. Back in the days, twenty years ago, we padded walls and ceiling with egg cartons. Absorbed much of the echo. Nowadays I have learned that you use material and designs that do not absorb everything indiscriminately, but rather work with the different wave lenghts, creating and omitting specific wave lenghts. High tech all the way.
Be very interesting to follow this thread! |
One of the first things you need to determine is what exactly do you want? Do you want as dead a room as possible? Or do you want a nice live sounding room? Do you want to keep sound in or out?
If you want a dead room that doesn't let sound in or out, stuff the walls with as much insulation as possible - do a google search for different insulation types. Dupont makes one of the best for sound proofing. Then cover the walls and ceiling in sound deadening insulation. Could be egg crate foam, or if you're on a budget egg crates themselves, or carpeting. Carpet the floor, preferably with an underpadding, Sound baffles in all corners and to the right and left of where your head will be. If you want a live sounding room, that's a completely different story. Tons of options but most aren't cheap. |
Have used the old grey egg crates before (back in the 70's), but my last live-end dead-end room was helped with a gererous application of Sonex. Also used Sonex to tame down my last bandroom as well.
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depends what it is for and what you want to achieve.
In general, it is good to avoid 90 degree corners, and you can do a lot by building false floors, dropped ceiling, and false walls. You can spend thousands on foam, but some fabric wall hangings, throw rugs, and a small foam kit can do wonders. |
Thanks for the replies! The room is finished in drywall w/ a ceiling, not sure if any insulation in walls, but I doubt it. It's a garage. I will have to ask the people who are using it what they are looking for in the way of sound quality, that is an excellent question that I had not thought of. (Not being a musician myself).
I know that the primary objective is to mute the sound emanating from the structure to the outside that is pissing-off the next-door neighbors. It is not a loud rock band but rather a female singer + a guitarist, (I think). It's just a rehearsal space, no recording AFAIK. What would be the best quick/cheap solution for the time being? Spending a few hundred is not a problem, not sure about thousands $$. Thanks again. |
Believe it or not....
there is a forum for this: http://supersoundproofing.com/forum/index.php
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How much egg-crate studio foam do you need? :)
I shut down my studio a couple of years ago, and have been trying to get rid of my equipment/ supplies to a good home (including a boat-load of foam!) All of the digital recording equipment is available as well, Recorders, mixers, mics, FX units, Noise reduction, Gate-limiters, tube pre-amps, EQs, etc, you name it. If you would like more info PM me. -Nick |
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Think of it as seat time for singers. |
Your biggest enemy in transmitting sound IN or OUT is:
air. You can insulate the crap out of everything but if there's a 1-inch hole or a crack in the door or an open window or an air duct or something you've wasted your time. Like, when you're in the car and all the windows are closed and there's a harley at the stoplight next to you, and you crack the window a teensy bit - loud as hell. Then you close the window - not so bad. My suggestion is you insulate the inside of the room enough to make the space comfortable and nice-sounding for whatever you're doing in there. Then, make sure your windows, doorjambs, and AC or vents or whatever are closed up. |
Cover any windows, mirrors, etc. with something that will absorb the sound waves. Won't help the insulation properties so much (can't hurt), but it will improve the the acoustic properties of the room. Even curtains, venitian blinds, etc. will help, just no exposed glass from my experience.
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If feasible, build a room within a room with no physical contact for the transfer of vibrations. Outer studs fixed to the structure & inner studs float. Then install an insulated drop ceiling. Stuff all cavities with insulation. Some of my hifi store customers have gone to this extreme when faced with neighbours who complain.
Ian |
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Cheapest is to line the room with mattresses... yes we actually did that. |
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I must be missing something... |
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I should add that I meant Ian's suggestion that building a room inside a room is the best way to go. I should also add the the mattresses go on the walls... and probably not the most hygienic solution either. ;) |
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