Spot on here. The better machines let you tailor the current and so on to the job you are doing that day.

Get a good machine and it will make you look like a pro, where like Milt said, if you have a lesser quality machine the results many times are not what you want.

Joe

OK, the nozzle is hollow, right? And it unscrews, correct? That exposes the contact tip where the current meets the wire. You wouldn't want to touch that wile welding, either to your work or you. You get a nozzle whether you need it of not. So, at that point there are 2 little holes at the back of the tip coming our of the side. The gas comes down the general hose and exits at the contact tip. It is contained within the nozzle and flows out over your weld puddle. I can't think of any gun hose that isn't ready for the gas unless the unit is NOT designed to receive a conversion. I think yours is ready.

Don't forget, you have to change the wire over to solid and change the polarity. Here's a good site out of dozens to read up on safety, set ups and technique.

Oh wow Milt, thanks for posting that. There are now night courses for welding here, so my "training" consisted of the 20 minute DVD that came with my Lincoln. I've been really happy with my progress from booger, to splatter, to rope, and now to some actual decent welds.

That site has lots of great stuff, thanks!

Thanks Milt. I will try it again.

What do you guys think of OXY/ACETYLENE welding? It can be used to weld different types of metals together and there's no need to use different gases for different metals etc.

I'm thinking of taking up a short course to learn OA welding instead. A good OA welding kit is pretty cheap and you can hire the OXY/ACETYLENE gas bottles rather cheaply.

I'm told it's ideal for fabricating exhaust systems, but takes practise, like MIG or TIG.

Just curious to know what you guys think?

OA is a old school craft. It will teach you puddle control which is the basis for all good welds.

I have a Hobart MIG 125 with a gas kit. I got the sheilding gas, a kart, and a auto darkening helmet. I'm a beginner and I think I have about $500 total invested and I think this is a great place to start. From one novice to another.

Actually, it was a 125 back when I got mine. Now it looks like they called it a 140. This is the welder I have and most of the same accessories...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00930081000P?vName=Tools&keyword=hob art+welder

Thanks, Bill.

Now I'm told even a run of the mill ARC welder can be used to do simple exhaust work in mild steels or even stainless steels, depending on the type of rod used of course.

So many options it's becoming confusing now! I just want the easiest method to get me up and welding quickly :confused:

O/A is very useful, very difficult to learn. If you can become efficient at it, MIG welding will be very easy for you. It will improve Tig welding skills as well. The best welders I have ever seen are the old school O/ A airframe (aircraft) welders. Simple MIG welding would be an easy introduction to see if you like it. Many community collages offer intro welding classes, a inexpensive way to see if you like it.

When I was researching welders I found out that the ARC is for thicker metals. MIG is for thinner and the TIG is for even thinner and specialty metals ie alum. Therefore I went for a MIG for an all around general welder. I've done exhaust pipes and body panels.

I used my MIG with just the Flux shielding and it wasn't pretty. Once I got the shielding gas it welds were a lot better and it made it a lot easier to use. So I recommend getting the shielding gas.

I also heard the MIG is the easiest to learn on of the three.

Lastly, if you get an auto-darkening helmet it makes a TON of difference IMO.

Again, I'm a novice so you may want to take my limited welding experience with a grain of salt.

O/A is definitely worth learning for all the reasons above. Plus, you can heat and cut. Also brazing comes to mind. In welding school i took some brazing rod and used the TIG torch. It worked w/o flux pretty good. None of the people there had ever heard of brazing with the TIG. So, I guess I better keep brazing with my gas.

No shop should be w/o a set of bottles and O/A torches.

Amen !

Very versatile very useful I use my O/ A set up all the time.

I'll say it.

I don't like oxyacetylene welding. It is VERY slow. Metals (particularly aluminum) oxidize very fast with this process.

There isn't anything that OA can do that I can't do better (and faster) with TIG.

Try practicing on thin steel cans(for burnthrough) and scrap 1/4in+ thick chunks(penetration). There is always scrap metal to be found in a bunch of places.
The inside welds will take more heat, so a balance of speed and heat settings could be noted for future reference.

Well I get to use $15000 dollar machines and 500 dollar units. Both have there places. I suggest for home hobbists to look at the hobart handler 140. It is the counterpart (owned by the same company)of the miller unit but is about $100 dollars cheaper but it is tapped. I had one years ago and loved it for exactly what you are looking for merv. I sold it about 3 years ago as I have access to what ever I like. I have a few Tig machines and In fact just bought a new 140 on sunday for a turbo flare project i have going on right now. I will be documenting it in the paint forum.. If I were you merv I would stick

ESAB, Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, OTC, Panasonic, And stay away from everything else especially snap-on,solar,harbor freight,northern tools, etc

Best of luck

and here is the link and for a note I just paid $450 for it 4 days ago

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/

FWIW, I love my Miller 135. the infinite controls are great for practicing strong clean welds. I've saved a ton of scrap metal from 911's I've dismantled, which is perfect for experiment with heat and speed.

One word of advice: take notes when you practice, they really come in handy when taking on a new project.