Work bench design and construction??
 

I'm making a large room in my basement into a work space. I want to build a 6-8 foot long work bench for general use. Anything from model RC airplanes to motorcycle repair work. I'll add a large vice at one end. I figure I'll just make it out of 2x4 and 2x8 lumber. Any thoughts on a good design or suggestions on materials?

IMO, the top should be out of a material that can stand up to the abuse of what you want to do.

I've seen plywood, butcher block, stainless steel, and copper tops all successful for different applications...

I have used several different items for tops over the years. I'm currently using a commercial grade hollow metal door. This is not the same as the light weight ones from HD but the big bad ones from a door supplier. You can pick up a "slab" pretty cheap. They always have some in the warehouse that were returned or were machined wrong. They can be up to 4' x 10' but also come 36" x 7'.

Also look at a solid core wood luan door. They are at HD and are unfinished. They'll be from 30" wide to 48" wide and from 6'-8" to 7' tall and can be cut down to what ever works.

With these you don't need added framing like you would with a plywood top.

Motorbooks, I believe...(don't hold me to it) used to sell a great book...under $20...how to design & set up a workshop. A full chapter dedicated to workbench designs. May be well worth trying to buy a copy before you start.

Other chapters cover layout, wiring, lighting, heat, etc.

The key word for a workbench is "hell for stout"...4X4 legs, 2X4 framing, etc. You want it tough enough to really pound on. I mean, one that would be tough to knock apart with a 12 pound sledge. My work bench is one my dad made in the 1930's...hell for stout, with a classic old Wilton Vise on one end. Top is 3/4" marine plywood...I'm working on the flipped over side...Dad had spaced the top fasteners (screws) so the holes would line up when the top needed replacement by flipping over. Wish I had the abilities in planning and design that my father had.

Oh...on the Vise selection? Don't skimp. A well made one will last you a lifetime...and beyond. A friend visiting from Europe once made a request that I leave dad's old Wilton to him in my will. Alas, my friend died before I did...and the old Wilton is still working well.

I've built all my workbenches.

Cheap and simple design - bring home a bunch of 2x4's, 1x6's, and 2" screws. Arrange and screw together 2x4s in a rectangle defining the benchtop, add some braces in the middle if the bench is long. Screw 1x6 boards on top, make sure the screw heads are recessed. Flip over and screw 2x4 legs (doubled if you like), one at each inside corner of the 2x4 rectangle, screws go sideways through the rectangle and down through the benchtop. Brace legs w/ diagonals. Then connect the lower ends of the legs with braces. Optional 1x6s on the braces to make lower shelf. There you go, a sturdy workbench built in an hour. To complete, bolt vise to top, and bolt legs to floor (or put heavy stuff on shelf). Screw a power strip to the bench for convenience. Don't seal or paint the top, bare wood is handy to scribble on. When the wood boards get scuzzy, power sand them (hence the recessed screw heads). You can use plywood for the top, but 4' x 8's don't fit in the 911.

The workbench pwd72s has sounds lots better, but mine is easier . . . plenty tough to uncork a bottle of wine on.

One thing you might want to consider is how will you reach the tools you will inevitably hang on the wall behind the bench-what I am trying to say is don't make it too deep, 36" ought to be enough. 3/4 inch plywood makes a great, tough top surface. And put plenty of light over it and power within reach. And a good shelf below will help stiffen the structure and store those tools that live in plastic boxes.

I've made a few benches as described above as well.
My favorite is the one currently in my basement. It's an L shaped bench made from butcher block style formica kitchen countertop. I happened upon it a local hardware store which was going out of business. The main bench is 10' long and the side bench is 5'...joined at a 45, just like a kitchen countertop. I then purchased two sets of pre-made steel bench legs and assembled. With the built in back splash it's real easy to keep things tidy.

Construct the legs from 4 x 4 lumber. If the workbench is to be, say, 8' long, six legs are required. Any less and you risk bowing when working on something heavy. Lag bolt into the concrete wall. Top can be 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 frame. Cross members of 2 x 6 every 2 feet (16 inches would be better) set 23/32 below the top of the frame. This allows for a 3/4" plywood top which is screwed to the cross members and when it gets enough nicks and abuse can be either turned over or replaced. Actually, I placed mine an additional 1/4" beneath the frame and covered the plywood with hard masonite. I did not consider metal because metal tops are slippery, something you do not want. Use screws for all joining; much more secure than nails. To eliminate any possibility of "racking", the ends should be covered with plywood. Don't forget shelves under the bench and even a few drawers for hand tools that you might not want to hang on a pegboard wall (hammers, other heavier items, planes, etc)

Just some ideas. Mine are built this way and I think I could park a small truck on them.

Just finished building my first one with dad. 8'x30" We made it a little taller than a normal counter top since I'm 6'1 it should be easier to work on without bending over. What I did for a top was inset a 5/8" mdf into a 2x6 ladder frame with 6 legs made of 2 2x4's, then put a piece of hardboard on top of that(also inset into the 2x6 to protect the edges). Much like Paul's idea, when the top gets scuzzy, just toss it, flip it over, either way you've got an option to create a whole new surface cheaply and easily. I've got pics but they're at home. I'll post them tonight.

4x4s make for a much sturdier bench. This is like mine: http://www.plansnow.com/wwrkbnch.html

I used an oak fire door for my top. It is oak veneer and filled with a gypsum type fireproofing making it solid. Can pound on it all day long. I attach the whole bench to the wall studs so I can really pull on it with a pipe wrench when something is mounted in the vise.

Any door supplier will have plenty of leftover damaged doors. The beauty is that the door knob hole is a perfect place to run your power cords for the mounted power strips. I use 1x3 oak strips for edging at the front to hide the hinge mortises.

I topped mine with tounge and groove (leftover) oak flooring. It's very tough, pre-finished and it looks great.

+1 on the steel door for the top. Thats what i used. Will stand up to the worst abuse.
I use a white formica counter top on my "clean area" bench of my shop.

Four of my benches were made from old doors, are hinged to the wall and have simple 2x4 legs at the outside corners that are also hinged. The original thought was that one could fold the benchs out of the way when one needed more open space. Since then, I have enclosed most of them, added lower shelves, skinned with masonite, trimmed with 1x3s and made sliding masonite doors on the front. They all had replaceable masonite tops from the get-go. As flimsy as they sound, they are remarkably sturdy and have withstood many years of abuse. I just never really needed the folding option I originally thought I would so I boxed them in.

I have another 14' x 3' layout/jigging table made from 3/4 particle board screwed to a 2x6 ladder frame that sits on two short sturdy sawhorses that has been very useful thru the years for doing large projects on and it can be moved to other rooms of the shop or leaned against a wall without too much difficulty.

This pic shows the long layout table and two of the masonite skinned benches in the background. This stuff looked nicer when it was built 6-10 yrs ago, but I use the heck out of these things. The long "portable" table has truly been a great tool for large projects. Pretty much a whole 911 engine can be spread out in pcs on it ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1200421842.jpg

Found the book here. It's title: How to design and build your auto workshop, by David H. Jacobs, Jr. Published by motorbooks. The number on the cover is 126534. I bought my copy in 2004....$19.95

Classic Motorbooks
729 Prospect Ave.
P.O. Box1
Osceola, WI 54020

1-800-826-6600

I'd suggest phoning, because these types of books go out of print quickly...

I buy the legs they're made for benches then use 2X8's for the top covered with ½” plywood. Make it 8' long X 36" wide ripe the plywood to 36" and use the 1' piece for the back so stuff doesn’t roll off the back.

The legs you buy have a spot for a shelf under the bench

LOTS of great suggestions. Thanks! I think I've narrowed it down to 4x4 legs and 2x6 frame - all of which I have on hand. I'm torn on the top. I have plywood and it's light so it's the easiest. The solid core doors sound like a great idea though. I'll mull that one over.

Pwd72s - Thanks for the book info and especially the Wilton vice story. It triggered the recollection that I needed one. Right after seeing your post I checked onine. Big $$. Then I checked Craigslist. Someone very nearby (which is weird because I live in the sticks) had a "5" Wilton listed for $50. I went and snagged it this afternoon. It's not an heirloom quality vice like yours, but it's damn good.

SmileWavy

Might want to check out this:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php