So I need to do some redneck autopainting....
 

Last fall, I took a foam roller, thinned out some Rustoleum, and painted the rear quarter panel on my beater F-150 that I use for runs to the dump. It was orange peeled, but it really didn't look that bad. Seems to have stuck pretty well. No need to wear a mask when applying either.

I was going to go this route on my new 71 beetle, but what about other options. Spray paint from a can? Wagner has these new HVLP paint guns, anyone use one? I could always find some local joint like Maaco to spray it, but that takes all the fun out of it.

The spray cans would seem like good option, but isn't it going to take 20-30 cans of it? Seems like it would be hard to get a good smooth a finish on large surfaces like the roof.....

Come on fellow slack jawed yocals, give yer cuz sum advice!

Tractor Enamel.

Air Brush. Janis style. :D

I got a HVLP gun with a built in regulator from Harbor Freight for like $40. It came highly recommended by Chris Streit. I have painted two 911s with it and it works very well.

I rollered the Baja with John Deere implement paint. It looked good on an off-road car, but I wouldn’t do it on a street bug.
:)

definitely a paint brush and the neighborhood kids.
Everyone will have a blast :D

If you paint with a brush or roller, you can always wetsand when you're done.

Another HVLP proponent. I used one to paint the 911. These are amazing guns, with very little fog and overspray. Do you have a big enough compressor to run a paint gun? If you have the compressor and want to use my gun, it's yours for the asking.

My uncle used a broom once on a Vega.
I recommend against that!

maybe because it was a vega ... ahhh the fond memories of my mom's car :D

Good thread. Need to do my Bronco ll Beater.

I too have to vote for the HVLP guns. I use a couple in my spray booth. HOWEVER, be sure if there is any humidity in the surrounding air that you use a filter/dryer on the compressed air line! A buddy of mine here in town borrowed one of my guns to repaint a fender and didn't use a filter. Long story short, the water going through the gun ruined the final paint job.

Just food for thought.

That also happens if the hose is too long.

Air coming out of the compressor is warm, cools by the time it gets to the other end and creates condensation inside the hose. Enough water builds up till it spits. Been there.

EDIT: I use a water trap at the gun end.

super soaker water gun, regular paint, and some thinner

+1. Moisture in the lines is the biggest problem for a home painter. Dust, dirt, even small bugs can be colorsanded and polished out, but if moisture builds up and spits water with the paint, you ruin the paintjob.

HVLP is fine, just make sure you have a compressor big enough to run it. It takes a lot of air.

Get a decent gun, decent materials, and do the job right. Even if it is a cheap car, it's still best to do it right. It's a great education and skill to learn, and well worth the money you will spend, just for that alone. The added bonus is you'll have a good paint job on the car, too.

I'm looking at these. About $70. Wagner. I could use it to stain the deck this summer as well.....

I'm tempted to see how it turns out for the benefit of the DIY community here.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202486987.jpg

Thanks for the offer Jeff, but I don't have a compressor.

Camo-flage!

Day-glo Camoflage!

I've been using a HVLP turbine like this set-up to spray my primers. I got it for less than $60 at HF. This is not the same as I have but I'm sure it works the same.


I had a friend that made kitchen cabnets and he used a turbine HVLP system like this(of course his was a pro system).
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91772

Go to www.tptools.com they give a good explaination of how these HVLP turbine systems work( look under tech)

I bought one of those to paint some interior walls. You would not believe the amount of overspray that thing creates! Maybe I would use it to stain a deck if there was absolutely no breeze.

HVLP. You would not enjoy rattle-canning a car. It would be a learning experience, where the lesson is "spray gun."

Ditto on the air line dryer thing.

Check this out...some decent info: http://www.neilslade.com/CarPainting/fiftydollarmyth.html

So let's say one decides to embark on a painting adventure, where do you get a quart of Grand Prix white for a 25 year old Porsche? Do you do a base and a clearcoat or just single stage?
I read some other threads on this. Is it possible you could have decent (not concours) results with a $60 Harbor Freight HVLP turbine gun when some here have $800 units they aren't happy with? Doesn't seem possible.

Sherwin-Williams. Just give them your paint code.

If you go down the aerosol can path let me know and I will send you some gun handle can triggers - makes the spraying less intensive on you index finger.

Occasionally paint shops have issues finding the correct "color table" to get an exact match. I have found that BASF more often that not has dead-on numbers. If you need the color %s, drop me a line, I have the full (domestic & import) BASF color table guide for 1950-1990.

Here is a pic of a quart of PPG Delstar single stage that I bought to tuch up a spot on my '79 GP White SC. It was a perfect match, but my car had been resprayed in GP White by the PO....I felt pretty lucky that it matched (most times, I have issues with color matching).

I also am posting a pic of my favorite spray gun that I picked up at an airplane fly-in/flea market. It was cheap and I intended to just use it for primer, but it sprayed so nice, I have used it for years and painted many cars and airplanes with it. :eek: I own a few old Devilbiss guns, an old Binks, a Croix Turbine HLVP system and a bunch of cheap trim/touch up guns. I truly love my cheap gun in the pic the most. Ultimately, the gun is not usually the cause of lousy paint jobs...rather it is the lack of know how of the user in regards to prep, setup, technique etc. My advice to anyone attempting their first paintjob...practice on some old fenders or something including prep/primer/sanding/painting to get the feel for it. Differents brands and paint systems often require different techniques. I know I always practice/test any new system I try.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203631589.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203631665.jpg

Where abouts in Indiana are you?

I have the BASF Smart Color Formula Lookup cd and could email you the formula.

I'm in Lafayette about halfway between Chi-town and Indy.
I only "paint-to-match" once and a while, usually all the painting I do in my shop is custom or whole-car jobs.

If you get a chance you should head this way in August. I'll be hosting another Pelican 944 gathering at my shop this year to replace/tension belts, repair/recharge A/C, etc. It's good times!

-Nick

Are you a Purdue boy also? I might just try to make it in August especially now that 24 is being fixed. Between going to Purdue and Superior Parts in Logansporte, before they closed, I spent a lot of time down that way. Are you a full service body shop? I do a lot of heavy collision and total rebuilding.

Tim might be slow but he carries a BIG GUN

Skip the roller and use the cheap HF paint gun. I painted an e30 with that and Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel. You can buy it in pints at Lowes or HD. Comes in tons of colors and is $12.

Thin it with a few caps of paint thinner, the consistency of whole milk. Then spray. Make sure you wear a breather.