And then connect it to the internet network in your house? Have not figured that one out either but they sure are pushing it!

Yes, I need a frig that I have to have an anti-virus license and firewall setup.

"CRAP. My NAV license expired and a DOS attack spoiled my lettuce." Great.

it's funny you say this Todd as this fridge just went through a ground-up restoration. Got it on Craig's List for $40, outside was nasty white, inside shelving and compartments were all rusty. Stripped the interior, washed all plastic with Acetone, painted everything white, took the outside apart, painted the body Hammered Black (looks great) and the door handles stainless steel. Left the water/ice white. It came out nice. In it's day, it was a high-end fridge: the shelves crank up and down with little handles, special adjustable temp compartments here and there, humidity control, etc. Lot of work, but worth it in the end. But if this fix or a compressor ($32 on ebay) didn't do it, I'd be inviting Pete over for some repair lessons.:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205591123.jpg

The same thing happened to my refrigerator. If you hear a buzzing noise coming from the compressor this is what it is. Applianceguru.com confirmed my suspicions.

In case you wonder what that thing that failed is.... It is a positive temperate coefficient thermistor. When it is cold, relatively like when it has been sitting there with no current going through it, it has a low Resistance. When the compressor gets turned on the low resistance allows current to flow through the starting winding. The starting winding provides a magnetic field rotation that induces current in the rotor. After current has been flowing through the thermistor for a few seconds it heats up, the resistance goes up and the current flow is reduced. The motor then relies on slip of the turning rotor to induce current in the moving part. Older compressors must have used a cetrifical switch (??).

The rattle is the big disc thermistor got hot and broke apart.

The overload protector is a thermal switch that senses the temperature of a pin coming out of the compressor and has a resistor in it that heats up at high current. :)

Ok guys. Perfect timing. A buddy just gave me a kegarator that doesn't work but is almost brand new. He called the company and they just said to scratch the serial number off and they sent him a new one. I took some pictures and they don't match up to what people are showing and didn't find anything on the net. I have another little Samsung ref in the garage that I opened up and it looks like the pictures. Can anybody help? I checked the compressor and it doesn't seem to have any shorts. Across the pins there is resistance.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205696237.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205696245.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205696254.jpg

Thanks
Pete

Do you think this is how it is wired?
Does the motor buzz?
Is the thermal protector closed?
Is the Cap shorted?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205729862.jpg

EDIT: If it is wired like I've shown... Anybody know how they get away with a 3000 hour capacitor in this app?