Cyclists...should I buy this?
 

I haven't ridden since the early nineties, and I though I'd look for a bike that I wanted in the '80s. This is going for $600 and is in almost new condition.
It's an 1988 Colnago Super.
It's also my size.

Opinions?
SmileWavy
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207852377.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207852434.jpg

Go for it!!!!!

Yes. Colnago w/ Dura Ace in your size. Buy it.

It's a bit retro, too. Which is kewl.

JP

Would you keep the components, 6 spd, or upgrade? Upgrading gets expensive really fast but at least you can do it bits at a time. Really look over the frame for damage. Those brake cables are wild!

I just want to ride, and yeah I noticed the brake cables!!!:D
I'm going to check on it, but is that a fair deal?

And as for 6 spd, could I switch it over to less gears with just replacing the rear cogs?

If it were me I would buy it now! My regular ride is a 1986 Trek, six speed. I have a newer bike but it just isn't the same.

imho it is overpriced. Plus check very carefully for rust. I bought a Davidson frame that was unusable when I got it due to rust in the bottom bracket and downtube. Old Italian frames were made of stout steel usually, but they also are prone to rust.

I don't know about the value $ wise of old bikes. So I can't comment on this particular bike being a good deal or not.

I just made the move last year from an early 90's trek to a modern '06 trek. I am glad to no longer have shifters on the down-tube, and the position on the bicycle is much, much more comfortable. If I were you I would go out and ride a modern frame and see if you like it better. I have no doubt about which one I would choose.

Rich

I would check the frame very carefully for rust. Keep in mind that Colnago's known for very thin paint on their frames. If there is one spot of rust and I really like the bike I would offer less for it since it's a complete bike. Even better if it is ride ready but I'd get rid of that Dura-ace rear dérailleur though. Italian bikes should have Campy, but that's just me. Good luck!

For that much, you could get into a decent modern starter road bike.

I think it is a $300 bike...maybe.

The reality is that the parts are worth next to nothing. That era Dura Ace, while totally robust, is common and nobody wants it. The frame is "old school" and will almost certainly have internal rust. The rear brake cabling and non-aero levers will certainly work your forearms nicely...and you might actually stop.

If you want it for style points then I suppose it is ok, but I don't think it is worth $600 unless you *really* want to have a Colnago (they are not rare though) and really want to ride 6 speed friction. And I'm a retrogrouch...I'm running 8-speed barcons on my Salsa, but at least all the components are highly functional and it has modern brakes.

frame is worth $350? i cant tell anything about it by the pictures. is it lugged? nothing particularly valuable about the other parts.

colnogo's have a peculiar top tube fit that works for me (longer legs/shorter upper body) YMMV, i dont know if thats always been the case with their frames.

EDIT: columbus tubing. at a minimum you would need new tires, chain and repack the hub bearings and headset. nothing wrong with those brakes by design, but i bet the pads are like rocks.

you could also 'upgrade' to a more modern drivetrain, but you would have to replace almost everything on the drivetrain (diffenent hubs, cassette, chain derailleur, cranks (i think), etc)

Thanks for the replies. I really needed to know some specifics, ie: brakes, they do look old and 6spd is a lot of work.

Frame is worth under $200 imho. It isn't rare or particularly desirable unless you *really* want a Colnago. You are limited in how "modern" you can go, and you'll be stuck with full cable housing for the rear brake. If you want to go above 7 speed you'll need to cold set the rear dropouts because they're likely 120mm. Depends on the year...not sure off the top of my head when they went to 126. But most modern stuff is 130 even for road, isn't it?

I think enjoyment factor for riding would be much higher on a bike with index shifting and more modern brakes. The Colnago would be better for looking at though...

I give 4-5 hundred. Check the frame. Is it a 80's frame? Some of the early (even in the 80s) they did not have a # stamped onto the BB. Those were true hand build jobs. If that's what you are after. One simple way to check if the frame has been bend is that you go for a ride on a flat road and ride withour hands. if it track straight without any effort, then it should be ok. Most of the steel frame can be pulled back.

Wow nostatic, cold setting drop outs. Haven't heard that for a while.

Jeff

sound better than "yanking them apart and stuffing the hub in" ;)

while we're on the topic of details, this looks like a low spec frame. The nicer ones usually had chrome lugs. Look for pitting on the fork and rear chainstay. Check for notched headset (fairly cheap to fix, but often an issue). Pull the seatpost and shine a light down the seat tube to look for rust. You can also invert the bike and often you'll hear rust tumble down the tubes. I've seen this on "new" frames as well, but worth a check. If you can, pull the cranks and bottom bracket to check for rust in the bb shell. Colnagos had various types of BB shells...some had cutouts, some had integrated cable guides, some were bolt-on - depended on the model and the year.

You can look for chainsuck as well but a 6 speed with decent care shouldn't have seen much. What type of tubing is it?

Dunno, but I think I might need som'n more modern, I don't know if I could deal with the brakes. Or the gears...

if you think you need something more modern, then you do. Old brakes and friction shifting is quaint but a pita compared to even late 80's technology.

I don't like STI (integrated brake/shift levers), but most people do. I do love indexed rear cluster, and use barcons. I'm a bit of a retrogrouch, and the front isn't indexed. But my brakes are modern and have plenty of stopping power.

Won't be as cool, but a mid-late 90's Specialized Allez should be easy to find for cheap and it'll run great. My pick would be a Bridgestone RB-1 or RB-2 but it is a bit more retro (and more pricey because they have a cult following).

I'd stay away. 20 yr old bike is too old. The new components are worth paying for.

I had a friend that used to transport his nice steel bike on a rack placed on the roof of his car. The bike was exposed to the weather, including rain when he took it on trips. The result was a rusted downtube and headtube, all internally rusting from the inside out. I'd want to pull the seat tube and have a good look down there. That being said, I'd love to have that bike. I don't know if the market commands that price, but I like that frame and the way the bike is set up. The frame looks like it has forged Campy dropouts......plus Colnago really built (and builds) some pretty frames. A few years ago, I found a NOS Ochsner steel frame w/Columbus SL tubing in my size. I bought it and eventually bought a NOS Campy Athena group w/index shifting. It's not the lightest or fastest bike out there, but that steel frame is sooooo comfortable to ride. I could have taken the same money and bought something absolutely up to date. I also suppose that I could sell my 82 911 and purchase something more "up to date." But, when I'm having a good day, I can keep up with my 25 year old son on his 18 pound carbon fiber extravaganza....not all the time, but once in a while.

Steve

I always sprayed a little WD 40 down the seat post of steel bikes when I got them, figure water eventually will get in there. Aluminum does not oxidize like that, so it is not a problem with the Raleigh

If you are use to old stuff, and it is something you always wanted, buy it, ride it, when you find out if you are back hooked, hang it up, as wall art & buy a modern bike (Nos has a point about the changes, night & day). I'm into old school BMX bikes, and a lot of what I own, I wouldn't race or ride hard & after riding a new school ride, it is truly night & day. The collector in me (I always wanted a Roachiodie) tells me to get it, and if it feels like you will really get back into it, display & buy modern.

Real men ride steel bikes.

I could see paying $400+ if it were in excellent condition. Really the frame is the only thing that is of value, so that should be in A+ condition.

although its really cool, it is over priced imo. for a little more you can get a decent modern bike. even the newer steel frames are much better and lighter. i had one made from reynolds 853os, and it was the best riding. even better than my current al/carbon frame. but on the other hand, i put 3 wheelsets up on ebay. 1 9spd and 2 7spd sets. not one bid on the 9spd set but the two 7 sps sold for just over $200 each set. i would have been happy to get $25 per set.

A Colnago Mexico was the bike to get. The super is the 2nd in line. You see, back then they didn't have that many frames. Most custom (italian) builders had one frame and one frame to choose from. They were all hand made. They usually have a track bike. It should be SL. Check the sticker and have Campy drop outs. If you want to check to see if its a real colnago, sometimes you will see a little clover leaf cut out in the back of the drop outs. On the spoon of the seat stay. Does it have semi sloaping crown on the fork with the clover leaf on it. If not the fork might have been replace due to a crash or ???

I the early 80, Colnago had a factory in Mexico. I think it was in Ensenada. They weren't that great and many people didn't like it. My buddy raced on one for 4 seasons and crash it in a tranning ride.

Jeff

Dzls rok, $200 bucks for a bunch of old junk. I got rid of lots of that stuff when we made room for our 2 old last year. I still have some. What kind of old stuff do people want now?

not sure what people want now. i was surprised also. i still have an ultegra 7spd gruppo and other misc. parts i should get rid of.

I wouldn't do it. New bikes are lighter with superior components. If you enjoy you will want to upgrade and $600 is to much money to spend on a decision bike. I spent a year on my 20 year old bike before I decided to upgrade. When I did my new bike was a blast. Lighter and faster.....

First: Steel is real. (Couldn't resist :p)

Like others have said, the bike seems to be overpriced. The Dura Ace components should actually be indexed shifting, as Shimano introduced SIS on their flagship Dura Ace gruppe in 1984. My 1987 Nishiki Colorado mountain bike had indexed shifting, and it was a low/mid level model. I'd be wary of rust, as well.

I'm a huge proponent of steel frames. My main ride right now is a 1988 Ritchey, set up as a single speed. My road bike is also steel, but I don't ride it much these days.

The frame might also have some value to the fixed gear folk, since it has horizontal, (rather than vertical) dropouts.

Do an ebay search for the frame and components, and see what they are fetching. I've been following the vintage mountain bike scene (oxymoron, I know) and am amazed at what some of the components that I have sitting in my toolbox are getting.

Have fun,
Jim

Buy it (especially if you can get it for $300) and ride the crap out of it. Enjoy it. Make yourself strong.

I'm riding a 20-year-old Pinarello frame right now with a bunch of new components on it. See no reason to go out and blow thousands when this does what I want it to just fine (getting my ass back into shape, building base miles, etc.)

Tune the engine first. Then worry about the other stuff. :)

I've seen guys win crits and even road races on old bikes. By contrast, there are lots of fat dudes out huffing and puffing on $4,000 c/f frames that I see on the weekends. Pretty ridiculous to be pushing 260# and riding a 14-pound time-trial bike.

I love that Colnago. Beauty of a ride. I could see paying $300 for that if it was clean and didn't have any major issues.

I sent your question to a few friends who are long time riders & collectors, these guys are really into the sport & well respected.

OK, thats what these guys thin.

If you think you need some more modern, albeit a few hundred dollars more, check this 2000 Colnago CT1 Ti/Carbon bike (Not mine nor am I associated). Very much modern and probably does not need any upgrades. Just ride it!

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/634348092.html

For the lazy to click on the link:
Attention Colnago Lovers!

* I am the original owner of a 2000 Colnago CT1. This is a great Italian bike that has a titanium front end and carbon rear end. The ride is extremely comfortable, perfect for long days in the saddle. I rode this bike for roughly 3 years and, since then, have kept it stored in my garage. I now have 4 bikes in the garage so it's time to sell one. It has the normal scratches/scraps (hoods, cranks, chain stay, etc.) for a bike of this age and with about 10k miles, but is otherwise functionally sound.


*Size: 57cm, top tube height 80.5cm, seat tube length C-C 55cm, top tube length C-C 54.5cm
*Color: Natural carbon and matte ti with clear coat (clear coat is cloudy and separating in spots)
*Gruppo: Shimano Durace 9-speed
*Stem: Colnago
*Handlebars: ITM Aluminum
*Seatpost: Carbon Campy Record
*Headset: Cane Creek
*Saddle: Selle Italia Trans Am
*Pedals: not included
*H20 Holders: Ti
*Rims: Mavic SUP (front); Mavic CXP21 w/105 hub (rear); used tires included

**SPECIAL DEAL: For only $125 additional, I'll add a set of light weight Nimble Spider Al rims (front/rear) with skews (no cassette). See them at www.nimble.net

Humm - for near same money - though I'd imagine the ride would be harsher - on Ebay

2003 Trek 5200

With full D/A? That ain't bad for 700 clams.

night and day difference between the rideability and upgradability of the Colnago and these last two bikes.

I love old bikes...but when I went to build up another road bike, I bought a frame with modern geometry and fittings to hang my semi-modern components. I used to commute on an old Raliegh in SF and an AustroDaimler (sp?) in Pasadena...but those were both short trips. I also snapped a Phil Woods bottom bracket spindle but that's another story...

I always wanted an older bike decked out with Campy Record, Delta Brakes and sew ups. From the LeMond time when the first Look pedals and Aero levers were seen...guess that was 1990 ish?

Austro-Daimler? That would be a Puch. That was my first racing bike just like Connie Carpenter's Renoalds(sp?) 531. They were German or Austrian weren't they. What's mordern geometry? Crit bike with higher BB and shorter stays or slop top tube. I had the very first Giant team bike. That thing was quick and you have to pay attention when you are beat from a ride.

If you must have a colnago from a certain era, you should buy it. They are beautiful. For example, many here like the earlier cars, but for a few more bucks you can have a Cayman that will run circles around it. I won my first race on my Casati which I still have and restored in race condition, so it has dings and what not on it. Every stratch and ding has a story behind it. That worth its weight in gold. You could give me a GT2, I ain't trading it.

I have a Torelli alum/carbon stay with Dura ace on it. Great bike to race on. I always tend to grab my look 171 (screen name) Jalabert special on the long rides. A bit of flex, but I like it.

Jeff