I've never applied stain on a fence before. Can ya learn me?
 

Looking for the most long-lasting stain and also the easiest and fastest way to apply it. I'll pay top dollar for the materials and tools. I saw an internet ad for 5 minute fence stain and it looked interesting but you know what they say; "If it's sounds too good to be true, it probably is".

So, if you've applied stain on a fence before and can pass on some tips, please do. I've got lots of fence to stain. TIA.

Also, do I need to apply stain to both sides of the fence?

HVLP or cup gun on a compressor.



KT

what kind of wood is it? I really like Penofin. Get the 99% UV protection one, work great on redwood too. A little over $40 a gallon. Roller is what I use if the fence or deck is in goos shape, then whipe off in half an hour. If not, try one of those garden bug spray things that you pump. $30 or so, you can even throw it away after use instead of cleaning it. If you use water base stain, then you just let dry, and don't anything to it. Redwood gate and fence remain wood color instead of turning gray after 6 year. My guys return and respray every 2 years for my clients.

Bug Sprayer

use a brush, don't use a spray gun!

My friend and I stained his beautiful new fence years ago. He got the Wagner. I got the brush. 1 year later, my part looked like the day it was stained. His was gray. Nothing worthwhile is ever done easily. Prepare for very sorry forearms and wrists.

Yes a brush. And believe it or not those sponge brushes work excellent. And you just toss them afterwards.

You guys are right about the spray gun. It actually atomizes the stain too well and you don't get enough on the fence. On the other hand a bug sprayer works great! As well as a brush.

Cool. I'm about to do this myself. I did the deck last summer and I was sore as hell. I should have used a small roller. The fence I plan to use a roller where I can and brush in/bug sprayer in the back side. I have chicken wire on the insides of the fence (the side I see!!) and it'd take forever with the brush/roller to do that.

i watched my neighbor do it. i was holding a beer talking to him. he used a bug sprayer, and was wasting alot. he just didnt get good coverage. so i took some cheap brush out of his bucket and followed him. that was the key! the sprayer was the transport, and the brush spread it out. we hauled butt. he used thompson's water seal. it doesnt seem to be holding up well.

when I did my section, I really pushed the stain into the fence with the brush.

Like I said, sore forearms, but worth it in the end.

I loaded a compressor in the bed of my pickup and used Behr stain. 8 years later it still looks great. I did both sides of the pickets and it has held up wonderfully.

If you don't get good coverage with a spray gun you either have the tip out of adjustment or it's too far away from the work.

Forget brush and roller.

Mask off.


KT

I'm with Shaun on the brush . I've tried all and for the longest lasting coverage it was with a brush .

I use solid color oil based stain . Think it's Moorewood . Very good stuff . Around $30 a gallon .

SxS

The pump sprayer to transfer the stain is not such a bad idea, but you should follow up with a brush. You could also get a pressure roller, but you won't get the edges and corners. Actually, a combination of tools always works best. When I do an iron fence, I use a mini roller and a detail gun for the tight spots. I'll have a brush wet as well.

When I spray stucco, I back roll with a roller. Letting the paint just lay on the surface is for very smooth surfaces, not so much for wood or any porous material.

I have used the Thompson's Honey Pine sealer/protector. I used a 2-1/2 gal. pump-up sprayer. The sprayer comes with various types of spray tips, and I used the one for spraying large flat panel areas. The product is an oil based stain, sealer, and UV protector all in one. It has been almost 5yrs now, and it still looks really, really nice. The pump cleans up with mineral spirits, so it is ready to go for whatever the next project needs a 2-1/2 gal pump-up sprayer for. This little storage building is in full sun for most of the day, so I am quite pleased with the results being sprayed on to the new CCA treated, marine grade RB&B(reverse board and batten, 12"OC) siding. It still looks like the day it was completed. I have done several other projects, and have had great results on all of them.

Just relating some info, regarding products and items that I have actually built and sprayed. Good luck!! Tony.

I have used the Thompson's Honey Pine sealer/protector. I used a 2-1/2 gal. pump-up sprayer. The sprayer comes with various types of spray tips, and I used the one for spraying large flat panel areas. The product is an oil based stain, sealer, and UV protector all in one. It has been almost 5yrs now, and it still looks really, really nice. The pump cleans up with mineral spirits, so it is ready to go for whatever the next project needs a 2-1/2 gal pump-up sprayer for. This little storage building is in full sun for most of the day, so I am quite pleased with the results being sprayed on to the new CCA treated, marine grade RB&B(reverse board and batten, 12"OC) siding. It still looks like the day it was completed. I have done several other projects, and have had great results on all of them.

Just relating some info, regarding products and items that I have actually built and sprayed. Good luck!! Tony.

It is very strange that some post are being repeated when submitted. Must be a bug in the site servers or site software somewhere??????

+1 one the solid color vs. transparent or semi-transparent. The solid color will look good for years, the others will turn dark and ugly in the sun. There are several good products and some poor ones. I like Cabot, Deck Doctor, or Beher.

Professional painters use a good airless sprayer and follow-up with a roller to work it into the wood. Doing a big fence by hand will take forever.....

i used armstrongs. its oil based. i used a pump sprayer from osh with a fan tip 4 yrs ago and it still looks great.

jeeeez. I just did one gate and it took me an hour. Anyone know what it might cost to get this done????

Just did this exact job and used an oil based stain and a roller--small one that fits the with of one slat. Easier than a brush and good coverage. Never a fun job, used a brush for cutting in, but the bulk was rolled.

Paint the back side? If you don't want cupping of the slats, you should seal the back also, especially if either side is subject to much direct sun. Did I do that? Hell no--too much extra work, but I knew I should have!

If you have the chance (sometimes its covered up where you have no access) you should always seal both side. If one side of the board is seal, the piece will suck up moisture in the air at different rate causing it to cup or warp.