Brake problem on my Suby
 

I have, as a daily driver, a 2001 Suby Outback. I am always having problems with warped front rotors and I DON'T ride the brakes. It has happened at least 4-6 times since I've owned the car. Never had this problem with any other car I've owned.

Anyone else have a problem with these Suby's or know of one? Any suggestions for heavier duty rotors or different pads?

This is a PIA to drive and gets expensive.

See if you can upgrade to WRX calipers and matching rotors. if you can, probably get a set of calipers off eBay and new rotors for a lifetime of use.

Thanks Shaun,

Since I wrote that post I have found a few sites re: Suby Outback and Legacy problems same as mine. Dealers just stonewall as I would expect. Someone mentioned Brembo and semi-metallic pads. I'll check on the WRX C&R's for sure.

What is the cause, I take it the rotors aren't up to the task. I'd think a pad/caliper upgrade would make things worse.
I've been something of a Subaru fan since having a small part in the BRAT introduction in late 70's but have never owned one.
Jim

Heard from a shop that some of the non-Japanese, non-USA rotors have rustting/warping issues.
Does it dive or twist? Could be a bad proportional valve(although I think they might use FL/RR FR/LR as seperate circuits).
Does it stop properly? Mabye the caliper sliders are sticking and dragging. Had that happen with my mid-90's (along with 3 of 4 caliper pistons frozen from sitting).

Jim,
Not sure I understand why the upgrade would make things worse...but then I'm not a wrench or an engineer. From what I read at a Suby complaint forum earlier there is a lot of evidence of poor design and some saying that the pads/calipers stick. There appear to be a LOT of folks with this problem from the late 90's to 2004...maybe even later. No one really had a fix. Except for this problem I love the car.

I'll consult the dealers shop just for the heck of it but I'm sure they'll stonewall the issue.

I have a 95 legacy with the same problem. So it seems like a Subaru issue. I have just gotten used to changing the discs. I usually get to the point of the discs going before the pads are used up. New discs are fairly inexpensive, or at least they have been, so I just change it all and drive on. Not great but tolerable.

Mark
I was thinking along the lines that a caliper/pad upgrade would increase breaking effort, puting more heat into the rotors and making the warping worse.
I wasn't considering the fault being in the OE caliper but rather in the rotor.
I expect you'll find the fix.
Jim

Here is a link to the autoweb forum I found. Some suggest flushing the brake lines often. My thought was that heavier and maybe even drilled or slotted rotors would stand up to the heat better. Drilled rotors look cool but I don't know if the drilling really helps cooling all that much.

http://www.autoweb.com/content/research/forums/index.cfm/action/Posts/fid/1959

A good friend of mine is having exactly this problem -- he's just warped another set of rotors, so he's replacing pads and rotors again. He just replaced both of his rear calipers, one of which was only two years old. This is a braking system that's seen more replacement in the last 5 years then I would expect to see over the life of a normal car.

I'll remember this thread and post if we find anything useful.

Dan