Brownout?
 

Sunday morn, we experienced a brownout here. Today, our microwave quite, and we're suspicious about the function of our water heater. Perhaps a burnt out element.

This the first brownout we've ever experienced. Thoughts on appliance damage welcome.

Off to buy a new microwave, but will check in later.

Yes, brownouts can damage appliances. The hot water heater only has elements to worry about and those are easily replaceable by a DIY'er...

From the web:

http://www.eoq.com.au/beware_electrical_brownouts_during_storms.cfm

Thanks Danny...Now, anybody here who can give me tips on how to check water heater elements? I have a multitestor that will test 110, but don't have a clue how to test a water heater.

is your hot water still hot?
If so, it should be OK

Welcome to the future of America...

Brownouts are know to destroy microwave ovens.

The brownout should only affect the microwave if it was in operation at the time. What brand is it? GE under the cabinet units are notorious from problems with the magnetron unit going bad. They have a 10 yr warranty but it only covers the part and the repair tech will charge $60-90 for a service call plus hourly labor. Total will be $250-300. Google GE microwave and you'll find plenty of unhappy campers.
I argued with them until they agreed to send me the part and I would get a qualified tech to install it. ;) My local repair guy told me how to do it and it was a breeze.
Moral of the story: DON'T buy a GE.

It isn't necessary to remove the elements or drain the tank to test them, but the elements must be removed (and the tank drained) to replace them. To test the elements, you will need a voltage/OHM meter. Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced. You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements:

* 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts
* 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts
* 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts

Be sure the tank is re-filled before turning the electric on. An element not submerged in water will burn out within seconds.

Test a water heater by opening a faucett and sticking your hand under the water.

A water heater element isn't too finicky about voltage drops. You should be okay. Only three things can go wrong with a water heater- the elements (the bottom one usually goes out first since it works harder), the thermostat, or the tank itself leaks.

If the water is hot, but does not last long, the bottom element probably quit. May as well change them both, since they're cheap, and you have to drain the tank down to the bottom anyway. Might not hurt to just go ahead and also change the thermostat while you're futzing with things. Everything you need is over at Home Depot.

18 years ago we had a brown out, lost a large freezer full of food. The local utility co. paid for the lose.

18 years ago we had a brown out, lost a large freezer full of food. The local utility co. paid for the lose.

Guys, thanks for ALL the info...it's looking like we lucked out. Only the microwave, a "Sharp" brand has been replaced through a quick trip to COSTCO. Water heater and other appliances seem fine.

A special tip of the hat to you, Danny...a print-out of your how to test post has been made, is in the water heater manual.

We have frequent power outages here, but this our first brown out. One tip to those with freezers...fill empty milk cartons full of H20, place them in empty spaces. When the power goes, this keeps things frozen longer. An added bonus is when you need ice for a cooler chest just whack the carton with a hammer.

The guy behind the appliance counter said that every time there was a brownout their business increased.
Not sure what the solution is, except an uninterupted power supply for applicances.

I try and not use anything except lights during the thunderstorms.

Have made many gallons of biodiesel in a water heater running the element at 115v instead of 230v. It just uses less watts. The element doesn't care what voltage it sees.

There are whole-house line conditioners which typically mount in-line with your elec. meter. If the voltage drops below a certain level, it will cut the elec. until it returns to "normal". Works for over-voltage too.

Danny...I'm guessing you are an electrician? You are a fount of know-how on the topic. I'm going to ask the electrician who will be wiring Cindy's kitchen remodel about installing a whole line protector. If it saves our appliances once, it will probably have paid for itself?

I am an electrician, among other things...

Check with your local power company. They may offer a unit for a monthly fee. There is no huge cash outlay on your part and if it ever gets fried, it's their problem.

Correction: The units offered by the power companies are typically "surge protectors" and will not help with brownouts. You need a line conditioner. Check with Home Depot Commercial Services or a local electrician.

Thats one way to see if both elements are gone but many water heaters have dual elements and if one is still good then you will still have hot water, just not as fast on the re-heat process.

The process that Danny gives is the best way to check them out. They usually are not hard or expensive to change out.