Woodworking question, silk purse from a sows ear?

[lendaddy]

I want to do a wood front porch/walkway on my house. Nothing to crazy and just above the ground without a rail.

Anyway, in an attempt to save some dough I was wondering if I can use 2x4's in any way for deck boards. I don't mean just slap em down, I mean rip them to a size and finish/protect them in some way to make them last. I ask only because I have an endless supply of free 2 x 4's. Is this doable or pointless?

[Jim Richards]

Originally Posted by lendaddy

Is this doable or pointless?

Yes.

[lendaddy]

Originally Posted by Jim Richards

Yes.

both?

[Jim Richards]

Maybe.

[lendaddy]

Originally Posted by Jim Richards

Maybe.

Maybe if I laminate them in teak?

[Hard-Deck]

But you're gonna' have to seal the hell out of the wood or it'll last about a half decade.

[lendaddy]

Thanks, so say I ripped them to a nice uniform 1-1/4" x 3-1/4" or 3", what would constitute sealing the hell out of them?

[VincentVega]

epoxy

Use the proper material.

[creaturecat]

wood preserver ex: http://www.cuprinol.co.uk/products/wood_preserver_clear_overview.html

[MikeSid]

If they are anything other than Redwood or Cedar, don't bother.

If they are just framing 2x4 they are probably spruce, hem-fir, or pine. I wouldn't put any of those species exposed to weather, especially not in a horizontal fashion. Factoring the labor of ripping the wood and sealing it, and resealing it yearly, results in a false economy even if the wood is free.

Now if it's cedar... you're golden.

[cmccuist]

Why rip them smaller? Why not just install them as is (leave a 1/8" gap)? Typical deck boards are 2 X 6's. Ripping them smaller requires more screws or nails and an extra cut per board.

[lendaddy]

Thanks guys, it was just a wild a55 idea.

[lendaddy]

Originally Posted by cmccuist

Why rip them smaller? Why not just install them as is (leave a 1/8" gap)? Typical deck boards are 2 X 6's. Ripping them smaller requires more screws or nails and an extra cut per board.

To make them more uniform and give a nicer surface I guess. But I see your point.

[Hard-Deck]

Originally Posted by lendaddy

Thanks, so say I ripped them to a nice uniform 1-1/4" x 3-1/4" or 3", what would constitute sealing the hell out of them?

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

I use this stuff on my boat's wood, even teak. It'll work on your pine, but the cost will make you want to go with another (better outdoor) wood anyway. I wish I were close, I could use a bunch of free 2X4s.

[DanielDudley]

Doug Fir would hold up fine on PT framing, sealed on all sides. Sikkens makes a great deck stain/preservative.

Spruce would not last well.

[gassy]

make a "sub" platform out of the boards and then cut 2.5 inch pieces and install end grain up, stain, and seal. I've seen a floor like that and it's a cool look. you could then frame those in tight as a friggin' drum. Use Gorilla glue. They wont go anywhere.

[lendaddy]

Originally Posted by gassy

make a "sub" platform out of the boards and then cut 2.5 inch pieces and install end grain up, stain, and seal. I've seen a floor like that and it's a cool look. you could then frame those in tight as a friggin' drum. Use Gorilla glue. They wont go anywhere.

I can't picture this, any pics?

[Jim Richards]

freeze/thaw cycles will probably cause enough ground heaving to make this porch pretty uneven over a few years time.

[gassy]

like this--or really tight.

[lendaddy]

Originally Posted by Jim Richards

freeze/thaw cycles will probably cause enough ground heaving to make this porch pretty uneven over a few years time.

It would still be on a frame above the ground. Not like like paving stones.