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At this very minute, there is a crew dry ice blasting a stripped chassis in my garage. I'll report back in a few hours :)
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How many tons of CO2 are they releasing? ;)
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I live in Canada - it's like I'm feeding the trees ;)
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:)
Bringing up an old posting, as I am trying to remove some surface rust on my 73 911 to preserve what I have until I can afford to paint the car. Mr Puff- What is the Mini Dust Collector/Seperator you refer to that pre screens the particles before the vacuum plugs up? I also plan to use the soda blaster for the alum engine & trans cases. I am told this works well. Also told to use "Shark Hide" to seal the aluminum after cleaning. Len :) |
Why not get the real thing? This what we use in our blast cabinet at my work. ALOXGLASS M470140 Glass Bead Blast Media 5 Gal 5W022
If you use a plastic container, and it says Berry Plastics on the bottom, I probably polished the mold, or work with the guy that did. This is what we use for a texture for lids, and caps. It leaves a very smooth finish that would give just enough "tooth" for primer, and it won't warp, distort, or harden the panel. We've done a few motorcycle fenders, and tanks, and it's worked great. What ever you use, be sure to have a dust collection system, and LOTS of fresh air. |
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For the small parts I will certainly use the blasting cabinet & the ALOXGLASS product you recommend. For the few spots on the car I am soda blasting it outside. Man, does it really make a cloud! I tried it using a particle mask & safety goggles, but now that I know how it all works I will buy a fresh air system w hood. I have seen them on eBay for about $400. Len :) |
Walnut shells. Or soda blast.
And then treat it with phosphoric acid. |
I don't use anything but sand. It is cheap and very effective. I do thin stuff all the time by turning down the sand and air output. I do use an approved respirator and dedicated suit and allow nobody in the area. It does cause silicosis if no precautions are taken.
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For the record, baking soda will work on small stuff and leave a nice finish. But that is not the type of soda used for blasting commercially. I did not know where to buy commercial soda, so I used the baking stuff. Again, what a mess.
However, I had one of the nicest looking early 911 CDI boxes around and it looked new, not blasted. |
A few points:
Commercial soda goes by the trade name Armex, marketed by Church and Dwight, the Arm & Hammer people. They will claim that you are infringing their process patent if you use anyone else's soda in their Armex blaster machine, a modified sandblaster with a couple of pneumatic vibrators to keep the soda moving. Water is injected into the process for dust control, not for coolant. A bare steel item can be left for weeks before rusting. I have personally done this. However, you should use typical anticorrosion methods after you blast anything. One last item-- typically large diesel-powered compressors are used, like a Sullair 180, to generate the CFM necessary to properly blast. I have never tried soda with a home setup, I can imagine it would be ok but not spectacular. With the big compressor, soda is spectacular. How about stripping paint off a panel while doing no damage to installed chrome trim or glass? Done that. |
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